David Trippett

"Humanality" in Thailand is pretty unique never climbed it....but that granite sea-crag in Sardinia(maybe it's Corsica?) has a route with a mandatory all points dyno to a giant granite hook thing.... that looks pretty out there

It must be interesting to watch you climb. Very Zen. For me, I don't think I'd make my way up much without the ability to read a route.

A recent ascent of a route in Squamish got me thinking about how important rests are in climbing, particularly on-sight traditional climbing. Rests allow one to recover and assess the terrain ahead. This is all rather obvious perhaps, but in a sport dominated by talk of power endurance and "getting stronger" etc...the rest is often central to on-sighting for those of us that are not mutants. Finding creative rests has been key to so many of my favorite on-sight battles. I think a lot of what has made my climbing improve is my ability to find a few marginal rests on climbs at my limit and milk them until I can continue on. The rest is as important as any other part of the technicians bag of tricks. God knows there are few out there better at "resting" than trad climbers You guys have any stories of creative rests you've seen or done through the years?

The penji goes free at like .10a(5.9+ ) Quick story...I soloed the route last year without the penji....the moves are thin but everything is there. Anyway...whatever about that.... the story here is that when I solo I usually leave my shoes...and descend barefoot. Bad idea. I walked off the Arches barefooted down the North Dome gully. One of the worst experiences ever. To make things worse, I almost stepped on a rattlesnake about halfway down. It was only out of courtesy he didn't bite. I was about two inches from his head. He never even rattled.

Jesse, I don't think Blake meant anything, although his post possibly could be interpreted as insensitive. I did not pick up on that at all when I read it. Blake is a great guy and would not say or do anything to dishonor a fellow climber. Blake, (correct me if I'm wrong here Jesse) I believe Jesse knows people involved with that route and probably responded to you out of loyalty and concern for an injured friend. At any rate and whatever the case is here.....I don't presume to speak for either of you....but I know that you are both great guys, both by reputation and first-hand knowledge. People have strong opinions about Europa/Crap Crags for whatever reason....but it's done and now we have a new route to play on. Best part is I didn't lift a finger Let's hope that the injured climber has a speedy recovery! Group hug?

the deep part of that water would be up to a man's chest, it was cold and way to swift to cross by foot... the Muleiro crossed on the horse and threw a line back and we pulled the horse over.....then we threw the line to him and he pulled us over to him on the horse.

thats a chilean horse fisherman...reeling in a rare brazilian crested water horse.

a strong, even prescription strength, roll-on antiperspirant rubbed on the hands and feet will help keep you from sweating in your gloves and boots during high-out-put days in the winter, helping to keep the extremities warm. Think of it as a roll on vapour-barrier. more importantly, watch out where the husky goes; don't eat yellow snow. -FZ

thanks for all the research. yah, there's a video of him climbing it with a rope on YouTube....looks like the crux comes pretty low. Looks like a high ball. Pretty rad, but I'd agree, not really in the same league with some other solos out there. gIZaNluM2KM&eurl This is more entertaining... ZoS8j9eNMZU

I wish I was paying 3.55 1.16cad/L or 4.40usd/gallon here.

nice! here's a link to a traverse on Fitzroy http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07-08w/newswire-fitz-roy-traverse-wilkinson-drummond

Sexual Chocolate! I liked Reardon too, such a shame he's gone. He was up in Squamish looking at Freeway a couple years back. Did they ever find his body?

Awesome!!

he says something about not being a highball and no pads... knowing a wee bit about him, if he calls it a solo, chances are it is.

the funny thing is that apparently it's "training" for another route. I thinks Dave's on a mission to close the sport/trad high-end gap.

wow. http://www.davemacleod.blogspot.com/

Attempting the Nose in the summer, your main difficulties will not be from your partner or your fitness. Fall is a good time. If you can't find anyone, your best bet is to meet someone at camp 4 if you have the time to hang out. There is ALWAYS at least a few people looking for partners for the Nose etc... and I'm willing to bet the success rate of such arrangements isn't that much lower than having a partner already. But you can also have bad luck doing this as well, so try a warm-up climb or two with them before committing to the Captain. If you go there with two weeks in hand and the goal to get up the Nose, you'll probably do it. It's a great goal, Good Luck!

How about Eldorado to Sahale? Ever been done? there's the Tantalus Traverse....start at Pelion, tag Tantalus, Dione, Serratus and then Alpha and end at Lake Lovely Water... or the Viennese-Clark in the Chehalis Range Here's a good one...I think Steve Schneider did the FA solo....

everest-lhotse-nuptse.....some day?

I want to watch beth and katie jello wrasslin'

Good news from RC.com: well done....the videos are still funny though, sorry.

WWVgS9wxZ8c O9fbbMscTJ4 watch the whole series!http://www.expertvillage.com/video-series/3173_rock-climbing-anchors.htm One of Mike's many gems: "in a climbing system you want there to be multiple opportunities for failure"

Awesome pics Lance!

Trip: Brasil- Rio de Janeiro - Various Date: 2/1/2008 Trip Report: Since getting back from from Chile, I've been hanging out here in Rio to pass Carnaval with my wife's family and to do some climbing....as usual for this time of year, the weather in Rio is way too humid and wet to do much other than easy routes or aid...but there's plenty of other things to do in Rio besides climb Rio, for those who aren't familiar, is a city full of walls. The Sugar Loaf, right in the center of the city has many routes of about 300m+ in length. Most of the routes are on a type of gneiss or granite pegmatite. The majority of the climbing is face climbing (there are also some nice cracks around) and is protected by "grampos" the Brasilian version of a drilled angle....they take a bit of straight 12mm rod stock, weld on an eye and then bash it into a drilled hole as protection with some bits of old aluminum soda can as spacer to hold it in. Sounds scary, until you realize that in a marine environment like Rio, being able to visually assess the quality of the fixed gear is a must. Many routes only require draws, but are known locally as "Traditional" ...I guess since they were led ground up and can be run-out. As for Brasilian grades....if you think the British System is cumbersome and esoteric.... Here is a typical Brasilian grade for a traditional route: 6° VII (A1/VIIc) E2 D3 300m:noway: Anyway...To get to the point, there is a heap of climbing in Rio, and yes it also can be very dangerous here in general....but the primary climbing areas, such as the Sugar Loaf are 100% safe and climbers even get to ride for free back down on the Teleferico (the cable car as seen in that James Bond film) Here's a few photos from the climbing, the city and Carnaval....it's been a fun trip....but I'm looking forward to getting back to BC soon. Corcovado, the location of the Cristo Redentor statue...and some of the biggest routes in Rio. We did a moderate route here to the summit The view south from Ipanema beach The Sugar Loaf from the summit of Corcovado The west face of the Sugar Loaf and the famous Teleferico, which is free for climbers to ride down on! Wagner and another Jungle Approach Wagner at the base of a route on the Sugar Loaf A view out to the Sugar Loaf from the base of the route we did on Corcovado Me on the first pitch of the route "K2" on Corcovado. Yes, It's bolted...but most Brasilians can't afford racks. Me on route on "K2" The summit of Corcovado A route called "Os Italianos" on the Sugar Loaf I did with a friend from Ireland. Summiting here is great, as the final pitch finishes with the climb out onto the viewing deck in full tourist awe and finishes at the bar. The view from the "Os Italianos" Our trolley ride down through the old neighbourhood of Santa Teresa after climbing Corcovado Carnaval Madness....check out the guy on a snowboard....on real snow! Everyone should experience a Carnaval in Rio at least once in their life. Gear Notes: rack, draws, rope Approach Notes: Bus

I'd think E4 6b would be more appropriate for Jap Gardens...but I haven't done that much bold trad. If you haven't already...and you have questions about the Brit grades... give this a read... http://www.rockfax.com/publications/grades.html and then watch this vid... http://news.bbc.co.uk/player/sol/newsid_7080000/newsid_7082100/7082148.stm?bw=bb&mp=rm&news=1