Coldfinger

Don't forget: Kongur, Chris Bonington Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage, Herman Buhl Shishapangma, Scott & MacIntyre and how the hell did we forget this beaut: White Limbo, Hall

Sure are trains, just not all the way......

nah, total bisexual, that One is - he likes to take everyone from the tail-end So that's how it was an "immaculate conception", never thought of that!

Well judging by the long line of preachers who ARE fags and then hate fags in public (unknown number of Catholic priests, the tweaker from Colorado Springs megachurch, the brother from the Georgia megachurch........) logic then dictates: God must be a fag!

Well, pretty American of you all to want to drive, I'd say go local and ride the bus and/or trains. Bringing a vehicle anywhere is a big risk, not just in gas but in terms of police, insurance, what if it breaks down etc. A bike seems like yet another eco trek 2010 blah blah. A bus, hey you're there with la gente, you'd be surprised how cheap and how much fun the bus can be, especially if you make alternative arrangements for the gear at least until Ecuador. I think I'd rather bring a surfboard at least that far........ Plan on leaving most if not all climbing gear with the locals for the return leg, they'll love ya! And yes they pay cash.

The Grivel tools are pretty sweet. Got a pair of the Matrix Lights and made a few mods to them (added Horns and mastic grip tape, subtracted accordeons). I have to say these are probably ideal for most folks, especially as there are some pretty light prices out there (retail is $185), managed to pay $210 for the two tools and another $71 for two Horns and a Grivel Double Spring umbilical set. The accordeons added 1.4 ounces and I couldn't figure what else (Grivel claims they are for "shock absorption", I say to cover up funky cheap/looking head/shaft connection). So they are gone and not missed. Tried a slider and didn't like it as it only sits at the head or the bottom of the shaft and needs a set screw, so it can't give you an upper grip rest like Petzl's new Trigrest. The mastic tape (thanks Dane!) can be had at Home Depot and is Scotch Brand 2228 Electrical Tape. Can't say enough good things about it. First it insulates and second it gives enough grip that I could get by without an second grip rest. VERY worthwhile imho. Really stretch it out when applying. Picks are a bit thick (I guess), but are bomber solid and stick and hook very well. Swing weight rally is the best thing about these tools, they are LIGHT! Especially where one is hooking/flicking more than swinging, the weight really saves one a ton of energy. I was skeptical having always swung heavy tools and liked how they stick, but am sold now.

Howdy, have to admire your psych! Went and checked out the boots and they are NOT what you need, keep em if you want for summer stuff tho, especially if they fit your feet well. Great for what they are designed for I imagine but you are way beyond what they are designed for. They (Kayland) say: "The boot is equipped with a step-in crampon bail at the heel and so is ideal where short sections of snow or ice are likely to be encountered." In other words these aren't designed for winter climbing, period. Usually this type of boots is great for long approaches, some glacier or couloir work and longer stretches of 3rd through 5th class rock in summer/late spring/early autumn. Also, without the ability to use a toe bail style crampon, you will find these more tiring when you are on your front points particularly on hard (hardness) ice. Don't give up on single boots, just find a new pair on sale or a used pair that is well insulated and designed to take step in crampons. BE PATIENT (I know that's tough for you kids but too bad). The wrong fit in the right boot is just as bad or worse than the wrong boot. You could keep an eye out for double boots, but they are intended for deep cold and particularly multiday use (way easier to deal with). Wearing too many socks are you? That tells me one of two things: 1. Your boots are too big anyway or 2. They are really tight and circulation is an issue. Many folks nowadays let the boot do the insulating and use lighter socks (midweight) for a very comfortable and high performance fit. Hope that helps!

Yeah, you're not getting your bar oil soaked boots anywhere near the absorbent walls of my Bibler tent buster!

Kinda seems like the logic you are using is not the way to go. If you are really serious about pushing the limits, you might find you need three pairs. If the Alphas fit, KEEP 'em! BTW they are WAY warmer, wouldn't use the Liskamms EVER in big mountain/cold weather, the leather boots are three season boots by design. The Alphas are designed for climbing, so the ankle is just how it should be. You'll find as you become a better ice climber, and especially as you start to tackle bigger and harder alpine routes, that you'll be using the other ten or twelve points a LOT more than the front points. That's why those points are there. Ankle flexibilty really helps you save a TON of energy by staying off your frontpoints (never mind helping you use the sole on 4th and 5th class rock). OR you could sell the alphas and upgrade to the Scarpa Omega, either getting a cheaper pair with a PlusFit liner or a newer model with the Intuition liner (google intuition liner and you'll see they're the sh*t for high altitude/cold climbs). Alphas are on the lowest end of Plastic boots for warmth, they were designed to be more like single boots than the clunky doubles of ten years ago, but ARE NOT Denali worthy. Plastic doubles are also very nice as they work better with Silvretta bindings imho, if you need to ski as part of a climb. That being said..... You can vary the lace tension to provide more or less ankle and foot support. Some boots even have a locking eyelet about midway up. Most folks crank down when it's time to climb and let up otherwise for comfort and warmth. You can also use the keeper strap on the heel lever of a step in crampon to tighten up the ankle support. There's no substitute for (plastic) double boots for multiday winter or big mountain climbing. (Of course you COULD buy a $600 or higher pair of boots from Scarpa or another make, but I'm assuming you don't want to do that yet.) As for the other Scarpas....... KEEP 'em! BTW they are identical to a pair of EMS Aretes I have (actually made by Aku aka Extreme GTX), great boots. If they are good work boots that's enough of a reason, but I doubt they meet ANSI standards for toe protection, they're not really steel toe are they? Here's a big caution: I don't know what kind of nasty stuff you work around but if it gets on your boots and is NOT good for climbing gear....... If you work in an office mixing climbing gear in with work is no prob, in an industrial setting, look out. You might want to find another ( ) pair also, insulated single boots, if you want better climbing performance as the Akus/Scarpas Liskamms are NOT warm enough for serious Alpine or Winter........ Dane has a great blog, will help you with boots, poke around. Just depends on how much $$$ you are willing to spend but boots are that important.

Howdy, I'd just like to hear from any of you all that have any experience with stretching plastic double boot shells, got a new pair of Scarpa Omegas and am thinking they'll need a little more width for anything thicker than ski socks.

I've got a Petzl Hirundos I picked up cheap and it's really pretty sweet, very small in the pack and pretty darn comfortable. Great gear loops.

I hear ya on expense, but I'm using TCU's to cover below .5 (and eventually to double the .5 and .75) and they are both way lighter and way cheaper than C4's and especially c3's. The new stem works just about as well as a thumb loop, I was really surprised by that, since it is WIDE. I'm not touching offwidth so I'm fine with 3.5 and 4 Tech friends which are cheap and light. Love those doubled slings and 13.75 cam angle.

Well, these boots are a good example of why I have a limited career as a gear reviewer (despite apparently having too much time on my hands lately...): Since I am poor, I buy a lot of closeouts and I'm not sure anyone will even be able to find a pair of these to buy. If you can, buy 'em! I can tell you everywhere I go, they make quite an impression. My 2 cents with single boots (especially if you have weird/hard to fit feet like I do) is that modern composite kevlar fabrics are THE way to go over leather, especially if the lower portion is ALL fabric. Why? They are capable of giving and flexing in places and ways that leather simply cannot, the break in period is short to non-existant and in the case of the Spyder, it has a minimal rand (that orange lace stuff) that still protects the boot without compromising the boot's ability to mold to your foot. If you crank the laces down, you really get a perfect fit for climbing, better than leather IMHO. (You might ask what I meant by Rands being a problem but this but here's a story: I bought the Spyder's cousin the Extreme GTX, branded as EMS' Arete, for $117 which was a steal of a deal for a full leather, Italian made, full shank, goretex, step in compatible boot. HOWEVER it has one hell of a rand and for the life of me I couldn't get the damn thing fully broken in until I took it down to the local cowboy shop and had them crank the sh*t out of it for two overnight sessions with a stretcher. So I'm not a fan of leather boots with big rands for a technical fit or weird feet.) Anyhow, this boot has a carbonfiber midsole, warm and just enough flex to give it a natural feel walking and climbing, double layer of GTX Duratherm, so it is very warm, and excellent lacing system that allows one to lock down the laces mid-height for variable lace tension or not. It really climbs rock very well and has a good mixture of ankle support and flex. The plastic heel cup really helps these somewhat soft uppers hold firm for good front pointing support, and with the carbonfiber shank, provide a rigid yet forgiving structure). For its strength climbing and warmth it is VERY light (2lbs ea. ish). It takes step in bindings. I'd say it is the perfect boot for any situation where one has to walk in a long distance and then climb in the cold (Andes come to mind). They really are super comfortable. This is probably a good example of a GREAT boot not doing well in the market simply because it lacked good marketing or brand name X.

I got the ones with a toe bail and actually replaced that set with Petzl toe bails (good idea Dane!), a tad lighter but a much better fit to the toe welt. I use Aku Spyder Kevlar GTX boots (very high quality hand made in Italy) and just picked up a pair of Scarpa Omegas wicked cheap. One spin in the Aku's on alpine went well, will see how they do at the Bozeman Ice Fest. My 2 cents is that the plastic toe cap style are great for mountaineering (as they fit anything, even overboots and are easier to put on and really can't come off) or lightweight alpine (boots with no toe welt and that have some flex--better walking) but are NOT nearly as good for hard (hardness), steep or hard ice. Had a pair of Sarkens like that and had a lot of wiggle. Toe bails are also a tad more adjustable, especially as the points wear.

Hey sorry I forgot one: If you turn your foot a little to the side, you can use pick holes with duallys.

Well..... Here's my top ten. #1 Had Dartwins and they absolutely positively sucked for alpine ice, mainly the bottom points (or the configuration and lack thereof). Cant see how a Dart or any other pon with crappy underfoot points (they don't do french but you can hang from your ankles above your head--come on!) will suck less. Yeah and no antibot! #2 Got Sabers on sale and I DON'T have the luxury of spending $$$ on tools ($300 each? WTF!) or multiple sets of crampons. They'll do anything and do it well. #3 They're much lighter than dedicated steep ice G14 or Bionic rails. #4 I don't put ALL my weight on a tool (it happened once b/c a serious chunk of ice blew and took out my feet and the other tool) so maybe Horizontals are less prone to shearing that way as I DO put all my weight on them. #5 Lots of folks with vertical points use TWO, because you guessed it--they're less prone to shearing. #6 There's no need to front point everything anyway, especially on alpine ice. Nice thing about even waterfall ice is that it has FEATURES, so I can often use the side of my front rail or even flat foot (much less prone to fracturing ice BTW). #7 People like Colin and Will do things way harder than I'll ever do and they work well. I'd be embarrassed to wear mono fruit boots and still suck (matching tights too?). #8 People like me do easy to moderate to slightly hardman hard stuff, which is exactly what the Sabers were designed for. #9 Did I mention that ice varies in its condition and horizontals do VERY well (better than a mono vertical) in many of these. #10 I believe everything I see on the internet and Dane has a really cool blog and I want him to like me (which helps as I'm poor and he buys my used junk and makes me feel better about buying cheap pons and sticks). BTW you're NOT Dane, nice try. Now for cup #2 of java. And I do believe it's good to practice climbing on waterfall ice with the same equipment you'd use up high.

I'm going to be leashless in about one week, pretty stoked. I have to say the whole leash thing kinda freaked me out, being pumped stupid and tied to my tools, circulation cut off, all the wriggling in and out of em to get in pro, etc. That being said i'm not sure how I am going to react to that first day, I am thinking I'll be really focused on hauling ass, which is a nice way to dance on--instead of hack up--the ice. PS I'm switching to horizontal front points! Thinner gloves are going to be fun tho, I'm SURE I'll like that!

Huh? It annoys me to have to carry a boatload of draws, but to each their own, can't go wrong with either really.

Great photos, especially that one of you guys and Golden Mean, thanks for the stoke!

There has been a VERY significant development in Chinalots, er Camalots, in terms of weight, cam angle, quality of finish and slings--it's called a DMM DRAGON!

It is both cold and isolated here in Wyoming. We are very exposed to the wind to boot. The car is quite often a ways away. I recall Cascade winters feeling almost balmy. And yes I have worn a very close clone of your faves, not Gardening gloves (I am not so much of an idiot that I'd wear "gardening gloves" for a fourteen hour continuous shift outside at night at 40 below). I didn't like the fit either. And yes you feel wet, the majority of surface area doesn't breathe at all, and the back is not very water resistant. And no my gloves didn't cost me $100 a pair, not even close. I find it a bit disingenuous to compare Ninjas to $100+ gloves as Ninjas compare more closely to softshell gloves in the 40-50 dollar range (without a sale price). Are you seriously telling me you'd use a Ninja at 21,000 feet or in Denali NP? So while I am sure these Ninjas work well in many circumstances, not for me. Look, they're just fine for winter sport climbing, but I'd never trust them in deep cold or winter alpine/mountaineering. Like I said I really do have a coldfinger. Let's just be clear for those who don't have the years of winter experience we do that these are good or even great gloves, but with serious limitations. If you total up the expense of gear--nevermind the road trip costs in terms of gas, lodging, even lost wages--why would one save 25 to 35 bucks at most when gloves are one of the most important tools we use?

Well then, pray tell, what do you use? Or did you mean that's what you use, or that they sell them there. Cornfused. I've actually used gloves quite similar to the Ninja (almost identical) doing pipefitting work outside in a Wyoming winter and was miserable. They are not that warm and I hated the feel of the fabric on my skin when I had been wet for a while. And yes anywhere you have a gas field and cold I'd have to imagine there are truckloads of these type gloves, with brand variance. Call me cantankerous but I am amused by the irony of $600 pair of tools, $600 dollars worth of screws and $6 gloves, but hey if it fits your boat...... Generally I wear gloves (plural) and since I'm not rich buy them on sale, so the sale often chooses the glove. So... Either a lightweight or midweight liner (always) then (current choices) BD Torque, BD Pursuit, BD Legend. All three are champs for me. I've got weird hands and feet so glove/shoe buying is always an ordeal, but I like the softshell type gloves as they are stretchy and more forgiving fit-wise. Hope that helps.

I just have a Tikka Xp2, it aint that much bigger and has way more light and life, and my MilSpec phone (I actually ran this over and it still works) has a VERY bright LED and a huge battery---seems like technology is catching up fast with the little elite.

P.S. It had better be cheap too!

NICE!! And perfect timing--today is Turkey Day!