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111

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Everything posted by 111

  1. Yea, realized that one a little later. me=clueless
  2. Whoa! I just had a revelation, Saturday is M's day not Sunday. Does this mean that all you are climbing Saturday morning? I guess that would make sense wouldn't it. Damn, I was planning to climb on sunday.
  3. 111

    SUSHI

    Eating sushi can be done witha reasonably clear conscience as long as you are getting the right stuff. There are lots of groups which give lists of sustainable food choices. It has been really hard for me to give up maguro/bluefin, but I have. In place, I eat a lot more salmon sushi, whish as someone earlier said, is sustainable. It can be eaten in a responsible way. http://eng.msc.org/assets/docs/MSC_annual_report_05_06.pdf
  4. What time is a good start time for Hood to avoid rockfall and loosening snow? we are climbing it this weekend and I havent done it in spring ever.
  5. I am coming up with a crew of about 8. Say hi if you get stuck behind us on the way up! We will be the noisy drunk group in the P-lot sat night.
  6. http://www.oregonlive.com/news/oregonian/index.ssf?/base/business/117868111251870.xml&coll=7
  7. I am sure you have seen the carpet covered kitty jungle gyms? Ok, so my roomie got a kitten, landlord said get rid of it, so the neighbor takes it and gets it one of the gyms. She was gone about a week later and came home to see the cat hanging from its neck from the dangley poofball toy. It hung itself out of angst at being taken away from us. I hate cats anyway. Just thought it was an entertaining and somewhat related story.
  8. 111

    Puget sound power

    Any impact the turbines would have on fish populations is negligable compared to the overharvesting of fish for food. The clean energy is far more worth it. (I love fishies too, but reality beckons)
  9. saw someone doing the face traverse a while ago. It made quite a clusterfuck of ropes with theirs being horozontal under 3 or 4 other topropes.
  10. If you need to be in it: Teknu(sp?) is a great product. I am very sensitive and use the pre-exposure lotion and the post exposure lotion afterwards. Also they make Calagel which is an anti-itch cream that works well (calamine lotion works too and is cheaper I think). Crossbow is great stuff. There is also Garlon and Velpar(these three are a common mix for aerial herbicide applications in forestry.
  11. I always tell people to place a high-ish first piece and extend it with a full length runner to avoid rope drag as well as the zipper. As well, blueserac reminds me that when you are placing gear at a ledge stance(a large ledge), put a runner on it so that the rope doesnt have to angle in(rope drag) to connect to the gear. Really, it just comes down to the "No Fall Ethic".
  12. Words of whizdom.
  13. improvements include: re-chipped the belayers area extensive rockwork between messageboard and p-lot graveled trail and steps from p-lot to chipped area cordoned off all climbing area with 1.5 ft dia. logs and large stones planted 3 maples tore out all the ivy past the cyclone fence on the wall installed park benches and a bike rack repainted message board a lot of time went into this.
  14. Eugene Parks and Rec (and the volunteer group?) deserves a huge for their work in fixing up columns. It looks great out there! I wasn't even scared to walk around barefoot!
  15. 111

    Wild Diving Story

    I love diving, but caves are a whole nother thing.
  16. in between every major life transition, there needs to be a nice long climbing trip. It cleanses the soul.
  17. what a great story. CCers should write their TRs like that more often.
  18. so, uhh, how much are you sellin sacks for dood?
  19. Yea, what else is there to do besides drink and get sunburnt. An emergency bottle of Jack should always be kept in the 1st aid kit in the horrific case that you drink everything else
  20. Total Snaffle!!! And yea, I think the proper thing to do is get Lev and Eagle Dance done with an overnighter up the canyon in between. Like I said, I have to go back.
  21. If you are in the Oregon cascades, Mt. Washington North Ridge is a nice little jaunt.
  22. I talked to some climbers at smith last week who said there was a SUPER loose anchor bolt on a buttress just to the left of asterix(if you are facing east) on the west side crags. I dont remember what they said the route name was but I remember them saying the wall had something related to "snakes" in the name. Does anyone know what route(or at least the wall) I am jabbering about?
  23. Trip: Red Rocks, NV - Levitation 29 Date: 4/18/2007 Trip Report: I recently got back from Red Rocks 3 friends. The plan was for a day of sport climbing and then long routes the next 4 days with the last evening in a hotel on the strip. I had a great trip and felt really good about my climbing. The first day I redpointed an .11c sport route at Dog Wall that I had been projecting for 2 years now. Apparently that meant that I was ready for some heavier stuff, so I followed Darrell on a mixed 4 pitch .11c the next day. Unbeknownst to me, he was seeing if I was up for Levitation 29. At the end of that climb he proposed the idea of climbing the "Best Route at Red Rocks" so we then we hiked in tocamp at the base of for an early start. Levitation is a 9 pitch 5.11c. I had looked at it in books and pretty much dismissed ever climbing it but Darrell convinced me to go and WOW! what a climb! I led a .10 and a .8 pitch and Darrell led the rest up to pitch 5. The rock quality is just incredible on the whole route, it protects VERY well, and the climbing is incredibly diverse along the way. The coolest feature in my opinion is the big roof on the second pitch that has some huge jugs in it(5.11-/5.9). Way gnarly! Unfortunately, it was also snowing for a good portion of the day (in April!?!?) so we bailed after the crux pitch. I will have to go back and finish that at some point. It is just too good. While we were camping up the canyon, we saw the most interesting wildlife. I spotted eyes in the shadows watching us so we lit it up and there was a little Ring Tailed Cat. It looked exactly like a ring tailed lemur which was kinda creepy but it was smaller. There were also several herds of Bighorns up the canyon. Oh, and Perigrines too. There was a nest near the route and I got to see a few of them up close. And Greg caught a scorpion trying to enter our tent. I guess that is the one plus of climbing in winter there; no arachnids. We managed to get on a bunch of other climbs but unfortunately it was a lot more hiking than I had hoped for. 2 of the 4 of us were way out of shape and couldn't do the routes we had originally planned on so that changed the stuff we did do. Gear Notes: single set cams to 2 in., med. nuts, 14 draws, Approach Notes: There is a good cairn system starting up the side canyon off oak creek that leads to the 3/4th class approach slabs. PAY ATTENTION TO THE CAIRNS! We didnt for a few minutes and had to rap off trees to get back onto the approach. A very full day if you are doing it car->car. Camping in the wash was very nice.
  24. Sorry to hear it. Celebrate the great life he led and know he died doing what he loved.
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