I did Friday's Jinx year ago and thought the pro was bomber.....if you are experienced, I could tell that some of the gear placements were tricky it was not a beginner route. Great second pitch.
So can you elucidate on "tricky"? I imagine the cracks have lots of flaring sections or irregularities so that cams have to be positioned precisely to hold?
I did the climb like 6 years ago and thought the nut placements were not easily seen. I could see that a beginner would see a placement and go for it, but if you look a little harder a bomber placement was right near there……maybe a little higher or lower. Hence all the falls and hospitalized climbers. I think the climb was nice and would repeat it.