bigwallpete

where is the Mt. Baker spot?

where is the spot by Mt. Baker???

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web10w/newswire-spray-on-wi10-gadd-emmett check out this link.

On the descent before the last rappel. I remember my partner calling his GF to tell her that we were on our way down. So it works on the south/ west side

Trip: Upper Pet Wall- Murrin Park - Left of the summer rock route - Czech it Out Date: 12/21/2008 Trip Report: Climbed a fun line at upper Pet Wall (Murrin Park). Replaced tree anchor as well as cord on 2 1/4 inch bolt anchor. It took mostly 13cm screws with a couple of 16's. 15m in the sun so growing daily. Nice ice overall throughout the day. Can be Tr'd easily if you want. On lead a couple of nuts or a blue tcu or green alien could be used to protect the last little bit to the anchor. Shannon Falls was still not in, but a line on the left which looked like a fun WI 4/4+ was in. People were starting up it. Get there early as 3 groups showed up all at the same time. Forcing us to go looking elsewhere.

After having chatted with Miles and sharing photos Dru was right and the corner we climbed was The Myled Thing. So correct your guidebooks were it say The Myled Thing is 20m left of Alice and put 15ft right next to Alice on the left corner that forms its slab. Great climb, fun pick torques with all the shit where you need it. Go climb it if your in the bluffs as it was the steepest most fun I have had in there so far.

the route description for The Myled Thing says 20m to the left of Alice which there is another corner with a hanging curtain that looks more like the grade that, that route is given. I wouldnt just say it to spray it Im putting it out there. The corner that I climbed was literally the corner attached to the same slab that makes up Alice on Ice. I forwarded pics to Adrian to put on West Coast Ice so take a look when those go up and let me know what you think then. I would love to bolt it this week and send it.

Climbed in Squamish today 12/17/2008. We climbed first in the Smoke Bluffs at Alice on Ice area. It was 1"-6" thick. Took several 13cm screws and a 16cm just about. I lead the right corner side of Alice getting a little rock pro plus screws with an exciting dry/rock exit. The center flow was leadable but marginal ice quality and the top 15feet were hollow with water behind. Top roped an excellent corner just left of Alice on Ice with about 15feet of drytooling/M6 followed by a pull onto a steep curtain that ended in 3+ rolling ice to the top left of Alice on Ice and probably the best possible top out on that side. We then headed to Nintendo 69 which has formed way differently this year to years past with a crazy windblown 12-15ft hood blocking the right exit and having sucked all the dripping water away from the left side making for some hard drytooling to finish to the top. Last year I added one bolt to this upper section to facilitate a fun mixed finish out the left side but it is bare up there making it all in all harder shape even just gaining the upper ramp this year as wide stems are the ticket through. Water was available on most of the routes in these areas, so it should continue to fatten up which will keep it fun for a little while longer Im sure.

Talked to my friend at 17200 camp yesturday. He is up there on an NPS Vollie Ranger round with his wife. Sounded like a lot of work during that rescue. Imagine 2000ft on your ass he is one lucky S.O.B. Buddy had no broken bones just superficial injuries. Thats is definitely one life off his 9. Sounds like the last couple of days have been pretty glorious up high over the last couple of days.

http://www.adn.com/outdoors/story/418914.html no great news. Just news. My good friends are up there on a Ranger patrol. I'm wishing them well. And my best wishes to the friends and family of the missing.

I bought one for a trip to the Waddington Range last summer. It worked quite well for what I was needing. We were a group of 3, myself and my friends that are a couple t.a and K.M. We were flowing into the range but were planning on hiking out so light weight was of the essence. I held strong in it for the whole trip and it worked really well. It breathes well and is less prone to collapsing in high winds then other BD tents like the firstlight because of the 3rd pole design which allows you to anchor the tent off of the roof level. Yes its small but its light and if your under 5'10" you'll fit no problem. I lived in this thing continuously for a 5 day storm that gave my friends more issues in their EV2 then I had in mine although I did have the advantage of being able to go to their house for cooking during the storm Would I use it again? For light weight fastpacking or other such endeavours yes but for a multi week trip no. I would be smarter and choose to fly in and out and carry a big fucking tent to enjoy the whole trip. My 2cents

Quoting Don Serl from the 1st edition of West Coast Ice, I think he says it best. "One general comment that can be passed along regarding ice screws is that variety is better than a homogeneous rack. Ice is highly variable, and optimim placements can usually be found for short screws and for long screws, for drive in's and threaded screws, fot fat tubes and their thinner cousins. resist the temptation to stock up on the latest, greatest arrival on the scene; buy broad, not deep." Obviously you need to change some of the wording to match the market of today but you get the point. Glad to hear the feedback on the laser sonics been thinking about picking up a couple getting rid of a couple older BD's.

no sign of a crampon on the descent that we saw yesturday after climbing the ramp Thanks for all the boot prints definetly made it easier. As for the direct finish did anyone climb that this go around, we were still using headlamps at this part of the climb and it looked really thin so we stuck with the regular route. Started at 420 from the parking area back to the car at 853 a lot faster then other times I have climbed it and thats because of snow conditions as well as a partner that ran the downhill that I needed to keep up too. "Peas" did you solo it?

Went up to the duffey yesturday. 12 cars at the rambles, wow how fun was that. Drove up to the TUBE. It was in alright shape, hole at the top but it went. On the way home we could see that entropy was in and fig plucker was down but looked thin. Today had the day off and took a couple of friends to Murrin to play on Nintendo ?. Climb was in way different shape then back in November, big wild spray mushroom coming off the top. TR lines to the right were fun as well. Lets hope the cold hangs on Anybody been in the Smoke Bluffs, Fluffy Kitten, or Scotish tale?

ANybody got any info on chilliwack, hope, squamish, whistler, pemberton? Anybody heading up friday, saturday want to help out and post some info by saturday night?

Check out the Mountain Hardwear Torch Jacket. This thing is sweet, made out of Gore Windstopper it uses welded seam technolgy to create a piece that only has stitching on the bottom hem and in the hood(but it is seam taped with ultra thin tape). This technology works because it doesnt put any holes in the fabric to leak through. Worn it for the last 2 years in the Coast Mountains (Ice, skiing, bugaboos(rock)) It works because it is super breathable and waterproof by design eventhough Mtnhw is not aloud to say that based upon Goretex's rules. Give it a shot and best of all its relatively cheap.

wire rope thimbles with a little dremel mod look like they have a way better shape then pipe hangers bent to work as others have showed. I think these things attached with a hose clamp facing the pic direction, to work as a grip match, might work for the perfect trigger finger/grip match. Ill let you know when its done on the weekend.

i went to look at these things today. how do you retro fit a hose clamp to work with it? Thanks for the help

someone on here says it hasnt worked before. see ice climbing thread for recent reply on hose clamp use for trigger/match rest.

as like other people on this board i used rubber splicing tape to protect the shaft where I attached the hose clamps too.

ive added hose clamps to the shafts of my quarks to use as either a trigger or as a match rest, seems to work well except it can be cold to use in certain conditions. Im going to try and tool dip to see if it adds any insulation. I like it a lot for both straight dry tooling and for pure ice.

and if me and my 10 friends are there the day before I hope you fly with tents.

i went and checked out the petzl vision today, seems really flexible, does it provide enough protection to satisfy what the purpose is? Anyone have the experience to comment. The petzl one seems like it was well thought out with regards to its 4 positions, where as the grivel doesnt look like it would do much then block the sun out of your eyes. Anyone have any comments on the use of any of these visors.

check out westcoastice.com Got out 3 times in the last 4 days. Wednesday was the checkout day, drove up the sea to sky checking on anything that looked climbable. All smears were in all major falls were still flowing. Solo'd in the bluffs for awhile before driving up towards Darcy to check on the Plum which looked great. Thursday, took a new partner to Cal-check to climb, after finally finding which I think is the area we managed a day out of a small flow with about 3 different vatiations to it, but this area could use more time. On friday night, I convinced another newbie to come with me to Murrin to ice climb in the dark. We climbed Nintendo 64 several times before calling it a night, route was in great shape. Did it make it through today??? Ill post some pics on westcoastice later, when my camera decides to let me download them

anyword on conditions anyone? Dru? heading up sea to sky to find ice tomorrow, will let you know? Interested in coming along? peterandmountain at hotmail dot com leaving North Vancouver in am.