bigwallpete

Went up to the duffey yesturday. 12 cars at the rambles, wow how fun was that. Drove up to the TUBE. It was in alright shape, hole at the top but it went. On the way home we could see that entropy was in and fig plucker was down but looked thin. Today had the day off and took a couple of friends to Murrin to play on Nintendo ?. Climb was in way different shape then back in November, big wild spray mushroom coming off the top. TR lines to the right were fun as well. Lets hope the cold hangs on Anybody been in the Smoke Bluffs, Fluffy Kitten, or Scotish tale?

ANybody got any info on chilliwack, hope, squamish, whistler, pemberton? Anybody heading up friday, saturday want to help out and post some info by saturday night?

Check out the Mountain Hardwear Torch Jacket. This thing is sweet, made out of Gore Windstopper it uses welded seam technolgy to create a piece that only has stitching on the bottom hem and in the hood(but it is seam taped with ultra thin tape). This technology works because it doesnt put any holes in the fabric to leak through. Worn it for the last 2 years in the Coast Mountains (Ice, skiing, bugaboos(rock)) It works because it is super breathable and waterproof by design eventhough Mtnhw is not aloud to say that based upon Goretex's rules. Give it a shot and best of all its relatively cheap.

wire rope thimbles with a little dremel mod look like they have a way better shape then pipe hangers bent to work as others have showed. I think these things attached with a hose clamp facing the pic direction, to work as a grip match, might work for the perfect trigger finger/grip match. Ill let you know when its done on the weekend.

i went to look at these things today. how do you retro fit a hose clamp to work with it? Thanks for the help

someone on here says it hasnt worked before. see ice climbing thread for recent reply on hose clamp use for trigger/match rest.

as like other people on this board i used rubber splicing tape to protect the shaft where I attached the hose clamps too.

ive added hose clamps to the shafts of my quarks to use as either a trigger or as a match rest, seems to work well except it can be cold to use in certain conditions. Im going to try and tool dip to see if it adds any insulation. I like it a lot for both straight dry tooling and for pure ice.

and if me and my 10 friends are there the day before I hope you fly with tents.

i went and checked out the petzl vision today, seems really flexible, does it provide enough protection to satisfy what the purpose is? Anyone have the experience to comment. The petzl one seems like it was well thought out with regards to its 4 positions, where as the grivel doesnt look like it would do much then block the sun out of your eyes. Anyone have any comments on the use of any of these visors.

check out westcoastice.com Got out 3 times in the last 4 days. Wednesday was the checkout day, drove up the sea to sky checking on anything that looked climbable. All smears were in all major falls were still flowing. Solo'd in the bluffs for awhile before driving up towards Darcy to check on the Plum which looked great. Thursday, took a new partner to Cal-check to climb, after finally finding which I think is the area we managed a day out of a small flow with about 3 different vatiations to it, but this area could use more time. On friday night, I convinced another newbie to come with me to Murrin to ice climb in the dark. We climbed Nintendo 64 several times before calling it a night, route was in great shape. Did it make it through today??? Ill post some pics on westcoastice later, when my camera decides to let me download them

anyword on conditions anyone? Dru? heading up sea to sky to find ice tomorrow, will let you know? Interested in coming along? peterandmountain at hotmail dot com leaving North Vancouver in am.

I believe that the duffey is probably in great shape right now. Anyone interested in hooking up tomorrow am or thursday to go check on conditions and get a little early coastal ice in? As long as you know how to belay and have your own boots/crampons/tools your good to go. Let me know @ peterandmountain at hotmail dot com

pics are posted on the mcr (mountain conditions report) on the acmg website. Heres a link http://acmg.ca/mcr/

there is a rope set up for top rope on the left hand of the two drilled hole routes on the kacedemon. On of the screw on holds broke last time I was up will be fixed by me by next weekend, Feel free to lap on the rope (always tie the ends together to inspect rope before climbing) The right line is a bit of a peg board with one hard undercling section and the left is more powerful and technical until the angle straightens out then its pretty peggy. temps are looking good in Lillooet for the upcoming week, hopefully will be out soon on something on the wet coast

Mountain hardwear Transition Jacket or pull over. These pieces are used with nothing underneath and provide wind/water proofness and are versatile for touring as well. My 2 cents

updated availability, make an offer shipping to the us is cheaper then you think and you guys dont have to pay any duty on shit from up here coming down

edited thanks

here is the list. All gear is in North Vancouver, BC, Canada. Shipping prices can be determined by email. Prices negotiable and in canadian funds. Paypal easiest.Pics upon request email peterandmountain (at) hotmail (dot) com La Sportiva Nepal Extremes size 43, great shape $200 obo Splitter Cams 6 available $25ea Metolius Rabbit Runner Spectre SLings x3 $10ea La Sportiva Superfly Approach SHoe size43 with superfeet $20 Simond Super Fox Mini Hammer Ice Axe w/leash $45(sold) Mountain Hardwear Subzero Down Vest mns small $75(sold) Arcteryx Gamma LT fleece 200weight size med $35(sold) Vasque AMP Trail running shoe size 10.5 mns US $40obo Wildcountry Superlight Rocks #1 -#6 set $35(sold) Petzl M10 Crampons Good Shape $100(Sold) all gear is in great shape, I just either replaced it with something new or I don't have a use for it anymore.

A friend of mine was working for the crew that put it in. $20/hr fixing up huts sounds like a good gig. THese guys climbed some one pitch climbs on Rethel with nothing of quality to report. But there you have it anyway.

so your chalk there today. What a great route that was my first time up Yak Check. Don, Did you lose any gear that you want to reclaim.PM me

where did you find any info on this? I've been surfing hard and nothing. If so very said day. Like when Trevor died. DOUG WOULD DO IT TOO!!!!

those pics are not of Snowspider but of Mt. Howard. Nice pics.

binding system works great on the sarkens. You need to wear your boots to make it easy though.(versus fitting the crampon for length and not putting the boot on) Why the dart in such a light weight crampon why not the dart.

I have a very capable skier friend who I know wants to ski it and has been in the lower section before on planks. The key to me would suggest to climb the ramp to its top where there are a couple of misc big trees before it goes up the final steep slope into the traverse from the NW ramp to the Nface,put on the boards and have at er. From watching the route the last 3 years I would say that a good local dumping of snow on a signifcant base, say locals reporting 250 to 300cm, with blue bird skies forecasted wait a good couple of days and have at er. REMEMBER TO CHECK NORTH SHORE AVALANCHE ADVISORY The danger on that ramp would be a sluff pushing you into the wall below the crux where it turns skiers right. Its worth doing because it hasn't been done and it only would take you 4-5 hours to complete , versus slogging up the sw ridge for probably more hours and problems gaining the top of the ramp . GIven all this info I wouldn't ski it or even dream of it put thats guz thats not my gig. But after seeing the difference between 3yrs ago, last year and this season twice I would believe that skiing it would be a great half day in the hills for the right folk