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bigwallpete

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Everything posted by bigwallpete

  1. My Vote is for Alex Lowe. "Lungs on feet "The best climber is the one having the most fun",Alex Lowe.
  2. I have a mtn hardwear KIVA. Similar but not the same. Anyways 2 different experiences. 1- used once for 12 days in bugs @ applebee. Survived many a days of highwinds in the pm with no problems well anchored though. 2- used once on ski tour without pole it comes with, instead we used an avalanche probe/poles for the support and at 5 in the am after some severe winds and much snow drfting we were awakened by a large snapping sound and the deflation of the tent onto our face.COAST MTN SPORTS warrantied the poles. Back in the day these shelters were used all over, roomy and if guyed out properly work extremly well in full on conditions
  3. Dru not even a gear sling always works. It seems you want things that have a full strength application always. On Zorros Last Ride in Squish my body took a 30ft fall snagging a hook on the ledge which I guess created enough force to break the BD Zodiac gear sling causing 30 biners and 3X#0 tcu to the deck from 600ft or so. Now I only use a full strength gear sling My two cents
  4. I also have a Ceres 70.It is a great pack and for sale.Check out yard sale if interested. I've used it on a couple of overnighters and on a 14 day ski tour once carrying 7days at a time worked great. I went all out and got a WIldthings Adinista, and its rad.
  5. member there, I'm looking for more recent info. More climb specific.
  6. Looking for info on James Turner?? Search engine thread failed to load so looking for new info. THoughts on conditions this year given the recent snowfall accumulations?? I hear couloirs out that way are getting climbed/skied any info?? any info photo links would be appreciated.
  7. I have ABC ladder style. And they are great, although you might want to attach some elastic to the bottom side of the 3rd and 4th steps for jugging to keep them on your feets. Got them at Climb On in Squamish
  8. Can you give the link. I'm not very good with the search engine yet Thanks
  9. MT. Harvey North Ramp 02-21-2005 Peter and Todd Car to Car in 7hr 15mins Gear used. 1 x 60m 8mm rope doubled 3 stubby screws and four shoulder slings plus a couple quickdraws Left North Vancouver at 6am. Started up trail head at 7am. Nothing interesting to say except for follow the signs its that easy. 1 3/4 was taking on the approach to the base of the ramp conditions looked great and following tracks always makes you more confident. From the base it was pretty straight forward with a couple of steps of WI2 and steep firm snow. Thanks for the boot pack. We simul climbed the hole thing placing 3 screws on the ramp and using 4 trees tied off for gear on the upper slopes. Beautiful day, beautiful climb. In better shape then a week ago as it seems to get a bit of sun causing a melt freeze. Descent is steep and with ice lower in the forest, it might be worth strapping back on the spikes. Worth checking out
  10. Fern thanks for the link that lead sounded awesome. The point here is to respect the first ascentionists decision and climb it like it has been climbed before or next time be the first one to climb it.
  11. I just recently heard of a route Matt Madaloni put up in the North gully that had 5o + feet of hooking of a big ledge a ways up. Is this rumor or truth? Sounds scary. I vote for the second pitch on Cowboys and Indians it took me forever to lead it and it is creatively scary.
  12. Those were my exact words quoted on Westcoastice with regards to the conditions on shannon falls. And I sent them with the intention of passing on my newly gained knowledge to help avoid any problems that possible may have but my friend at risk to help those not so experienced to decide for themselves. ENd of story I don't know adrian and evey email I send to him is uploaded exactly in my words. Hence the spelling mistakes.
  13. Was on it ithe day befoe in pic's looking similiar to your pic's and decided to turn around because of falling ice and high water volume. When we got to the ground we were surprised to see a friend(respected coastal guide) backing off of a climb just left of Loreli Gully because of poor conditions. And made the comment to us, I only climb the falls when they are completly in because I have rescued 2 parties different occasions but similiar looking and it was some scary shit, With the ice falling down. Anyways just glad it worked out for everyone.
  14. I'm trying to find the link. Give me a bit.
  15. Sorry for the ignorance. It was on the local evening news.
  16. Does anyone have info on the climbers rescued on or by Bridal Veil Falls? I heard just rescued.
  17. Do you still need permission to cross private land or has it been established as ok to do?
  18. The store I work at sells K2 Powerdryers. There thes charcol bags that you put inside your shoes/boots after use it sucks up all the moisture and you put them in the dryer or near a heater to dry out in 10-12hrs. $29.98 canadian
  19. check out www.ankerclimbingequipment.com for cheap new a5 products
  20. Picked up and A5 expedition/breathable fly for my double ledge for $75 with a pole including shipping withing the US. Check it out. web page
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