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Everything posted by bigwallpete
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[TR] Mt Harvey- North Face 2/17/2006
bigwallpete replied to jmace's topic in British Columbia/Canada
5hrs is what I have heard, pretty sure the story was a solo for Guy. THe best part is comparing times it takes for certain sections. We simul-climbed the whole route placing between 1 -2 pieces per 60m and took a lot longer at the technical? sections were as our fitness allowed for a fast approach and descent. The original post in this thread talked of 1hr15to climb the ramp we took a lot longer Here was the break down for us. 1hr30min approach to base of couloir/top of scree slope. 15min gear up 2hr45min to climb route to summit with 15min lucnh stop included.No view on the summit because of crappy weather so no time wasted except to coil the rope. 1hr45min descent to car. Taking off and putting on crampons twice on the way down. Ran the final road back to the car, had to be home for a course. IT obviously is a condition dependent story. For us down through the open forest was easy because of snow conditions where as last year it was slow ass because of an ice crust. Anyways solo would be the way to go. HAS IT BEEN SKIED??? Is the Royal Flush, T.R, somewhere around the Lions or Crown? -
[TR] Mt Harvey- North Face 2/17/2006
bigwallpete replied to jmace's topic in British Columbia/Canada
got out onto the route yesturday. I can't believe the different shape that this one can be in. ALmost all evidence of previous ascents had vanished via the spindrift. Conditions were shall we say thunker. I went up to try this early in the year(dec/nov) and found only rock in the shallow areas and bottomless snow everywhere else. This time you didn't even realize were the cruxs might be found. Great day out yesturday 6hr15mis ctc, but mostly cause there was no vis on top so we just started right down. Definetly not that cold yesturday. I should mention that the snow in the forest was scetchy in some parts, with a bomber ice crust over top of the untracked and it was like a skating rink in the tracks. Looking outside it looks like we might have to wait a bit again for better conditions. -
FS: The North Face/A5 Big Wall Gear Sling
bigwallpete replied to bigwallpete's topic in The Yard Sale
pm sent back -
FS: The North Face/A5 Big Wall Gear Sling
bigwallpete replied to bigwallpete's topic in The Yard Sale
make an offer. Bump. -
FS: The North Face/A5 Big Wall Gear Sling
bigwallpete replied to bigwallpete's topic in The Yard Sale
bump -
Grivel Triggers size lrg never used just tried to get too work on my tools. They didn't really work how I wanted them to on my quarks. $25can/us for the pair. Including Shipping. email if ?
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Used twice in mint condition. This gear sling is also a full strength chest harness which is handy on awkward roofs. Reg price 100 canadian will sell for 50can/40us not including shipping. email for pics
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those are splitter cams. An add on to the aid rack. The 2lobe ones are more versatile then the 4 lobe ones. I'd spend my money on hybrds(aliens) and more reg aliens before I bought any more. My 2 cents
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My plans for an ice trip have falling through does anyone have any experience in Bishop in the middle of winter. How quick does it dry given that it just snowed 8inches there in the past 24hrs???? Any help would be great. Thanks Peter
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looking for partner to go to rockies with thisweek
bigwallpete replied to bigwallpete's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
check pms. Thanks for the offer -
Looking for anybody interested in heading to the rockies this week, my partner got hit with the flu yesturday and is now on penicillin and is probably not going to be well enough to take off this week. Peter email me or reply if interested or have any knowledge of what it is like to pick up a belay in a place like haffner would be.
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Alot of stuff all must go *DELETED* *DELETED* *DELETED*
bigwallpete replied to stinkybritches's topic in The Yard Sale
i'll take the adjustable daisy email me. peterandmountain at hotmail dot moc -
On thursday, my buddy and I went up onto the North ramp of Harvey. Condition were to say the least unconsolidated. We wallowed our way upwards to past the crux corner which had no Ice in it at all, and because of time of day decided to just descend then deal with more trenching that was about to come. Hike in was good until the boulder field below the ramp which sucked ass and was like walking from one balance board to the next. The way down was worse causing me to rip my new paclite pants several time well post holling into the abyss. Need some warm weather to get some moisture back in the snow. there was about an inch of ice at most anywhere on the route. Avalanche conditions were good with only about a 5 to 10cm windslab in some isolated spots. We rapped the bottom of the ramp via an icicle and a small cedar branch because going up was all on snow covered rock/slab. Bounced the shit out of the anchor once down and it didn't fail. wow.
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Went to a product knowledge for a retail store when the mini traxion first came out and the rep was saying that tring was well within the design of the device. We all took turns falling onto it that day and I have used it ever since for solo tring. The trick was clipping a bag to the bottom of the rope to give it some weight.
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Great synthetic sleeping bag. Check out http://www.mountainhardwear.com/Product.aspx?top=4&prod=1389&cat=53&viewAll=False. This bag is in new shape used 6 nights in the valley last spring. Its is regular length and LH zip(right side of body). $115 can obo, buyer pays shipping. email for pics @ peterandmountain@hotmail.com Peter
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2 Softshells FOR SALE: Both are used and in great shape. 1. Arcteryx Gamma SV Jacket. The Scholler one from a couple of years ago. Black in color, medium in size. pics available. $125can 2. Arcteryx Alpha Comp Hoody. Great hybrid peice with waterproof hood/waist panel softshell material throughtout the rest for great breathability. Blue Azul in color, medium in size. $200can 3. Patagonia PuffBall Pullover. Jacket is 4 years old still in great shape. With one repair done by Patagonia on front chest pocket. Color Blue, size med. $80can Pics are available for all just email me @ peterandmountain@hotmail.com. Prices are OBO. Shipping reflects what you offer. Peter
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Bump. How about 150obo. great thermal soft shell.
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Great Piece, just have to many softshells. One snag on left arm from first day of use. 4 years old but still in great shape, re-dwr many times. Pics on request via email. Asking price $200obo canadian + shipping
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would you send me pics. peterandmountain_AT_hotmail.com
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do you have any pics on the boots both trangos. email me peterandmountain@hotmail.com
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[TR] Mt Slesse- North East Buttress 8/26/2005
bigwallpete replied to ivan's topic in British Columbia/Canada
the only pitch that seemed very different then the Beckey topo was the 3rd last pitch. 5.7 into an alcove then 5.6 sheraton slesse. My advice would be to stay on the crest for that pitch staying left of the fixed pin 65ft out or so. allowing no rope drag and 165ft pitch. There was a fixed nut they way we went through the roof crux. I left it. My partner said he pulled onit so maybe someone else will too. -
[TR] Mt Slesse- North East Buttress 8/26/2005
bigwallpete replied to ivan's topic in British Columbia/Canada
I drank there too on Friday. After climbing the route thursday in similiar style except we sleeped in the heather/krumholtz just south of the wooded knoll after loosing the trail in the fading light. Word of advise, the shower you get at the drip on the wall can be avoided by walking another five minutes tops to a nice clean looking stream. Nice work guys. I also carried 3liters and my partner carried 2 and was fine. But my body still tells me that it felt like 10l of water for that 27hrs instead of the five it got. -
Hey there, Have a new jacket being shipped need to sell this one for funds. Bought in spring of '05. price $400can obo Size Med Color Sangria Condition Perfect pm or email peterandmountain@hotmail.com