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Dirtyleaf

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Everything posted by Dirtyleaf

  1. I bought a pair of these for my first set of tools. I only used them a few times for steep ice but they worked well and for the price they were a great deal.
  2. My parner is new to traditional climbing so the pitches he led took a long time. Too long.
  3. Climb: Darrington, Exfoliation Dome-Blueberry Route Date of Climb: 10/28/2005 Trip Report: We climbed up the granite sidewalk at about 8am and made it to the base of the route in a little over an hour. The weather was moderate and sunny. A fun outing and some excellent climbing. We also had an epic: we got rained/snowed/darkness at the top of the route and ended up sleeping under a flake all night in the rain without bivy gear or rain gear...We had to huddle together to stay warm while being completely drenched. We almost got a fire going a few times but each time it started to go a gust of wind would put it out. We were shaking uncontrollably and and our bodies went completely numb. Alpine lessons were learned. I posted pictures in the photo gallery under (rock climbing). Gear Notes: Aliens:blue-orange. Camalots:.3-3 TCU's:#0-#1 HB offests, stoppers, 2 60m ropes Approach Notes: Granite sidewalk up. Bushwacking on the way down,(It was raining and snowing)
  4. I'm thinking of the Blueberry route on Exfoliation Dome. Weather permitting anytime from thurs-Sun.
  5. No, the leader overcammed the sumbitch super tight. It was his first gear lead.
  6. Size is 1 3/4. If you find this please drop me a PM.
  7. I'm a 5.9 gear climber but I could push it up a notch. I have next week off and Darrington is one of my favorite climbing areas. I'd be game for anything as long as its under 10b or so. Let me know asap if you're interested. -Geoff
  8. I'm heading up to visit some relatives in Joseph Or. I'll be heading out probably this monday. I'll be gone for a week but on my way back i'm going to stock up on some TG beer for friends. I live in woodinville WA. maybe icould help you out.
  9. I just climbed Orbit 2 weeks ago and know exactly what you are talking about. I'm pretty sure they are both 1/4" rusted, loose, piles.
  10. I've (my grandma) got a cabin on Wallowa lake and am always looking for an excuse to go there and Terminal Gravity.PM me if interested
  11. Do you live anywhere near wallowa lake?
  12. Climb: Green Giant Buttress-Dreamer Date of Climb: 8/19/2005 Trip Report: Met up with jshmster on Fri and started the route sometime around 10am. We had the whole crag to ourselves and the weather was perfect. Good slab and crack climbing and runout in places. Awesome views on top of the buttress of Squire Creek Wall, Glacier peak, etc. It took us about 5.5 hrs to reach the top. All in all an awesome climb! Gear Notes: 8.1mm 60m Doubles.(highly recommeded for this route) HB offsets,set of aliens+hybrids/camalots in larger sizes. 2#3/s for Blue Crack. Micro cams are a must. Approach Notes: about an hour. Trail is in good condition and easy to follow.
  13. I'm still looking for a partner for Dreamer Friday. If anyone's interested pm me back.
  14. I've been using an 8x10 silnylon sheet tarp for a few years now and for backpacking I wouldn't use anything else. It weighs 14 oz.,can fit 3 people underneath it and for one person it is a comfortable fortress. There are no problems with condensation, you and your gear will stay drier and more comfortable when its raining compared to a tent/bivy sack. You can use rocks and trees and sticks to set it up anywhere. When its wet you simply shake it off or use a chamois to wipe it down and stick it on the outside of your pack. It is extremely versatile. There are endless configurations you can set it up in for any type of terrain and weather. It is also cheap.(I got mine for $85).
  15. Outer Space Silent Running Methow Ispiration route Orbit
  16. There is only one book I know of dedicated solely to the art of Traditional leading called "Traditional climbing: Surviving the learning years" or something very close to that. And John Long's book. Read up as much as you can and try and find someone to follow and show you the ropes or hire a guide. The best way to learn is to experience it for yourself. If you could borrow a rack or buy some pro start placing gear and practice building anchors with a cordelette. pretty soon you'll have gear size to crack width down and placing gear will come naturally. Aid climbing is another excellent way of learning to place gear and trust your placements.
  17. I've always wanted to do a coastal hike on Vancouver Island. Do you have any pictures from your trip?
  18. Anyone want to climb Darrington or Leavenworth this mon-tues? I'm open to any other climbs but if the weather is nice i really want to do Dreamer. mmmmm..
  19. What are the directions to get to Static Point from Seattle?
  20. 45 lbs is not light.
  21. Pretty much. A synthetic bag is better for very wet climates but a down bag with a bivy sack(and being very careful with how you use it) is just as good. The other thing is that a synthetic bag will lose its loft every time you pack it and wash it. Say it would last you 2-3 years. A down bag on the other hand will last you 10+ years with washing and will not lose loft. More expensive but certainly worth it in the long run. Just my 2 cents.
  22. I work in monroe which is about 30 minutes from Index. I have all the essentials and could meet you there after work or on the weekend.
  23. You are crazy
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