Kimmo

maybe i'm missing something here, and if i am, please tell me what it is!

jon, you do not seem to understand that the soviets were also "doped to the gills", yet the bulgarians consistently beat them, at least during the period that abadziev coached them. do you see the relevance of this? both the soviet periodization approach and the bulgarian max intensity approach used drugs (which leveled the playing field), yet the bulgarians won. what does this seem to indicate? it seems to indicate the superiority of one approach over the other, yes? tell me how this doesn't make sense.

basically. if not more often.

[video:youtube]

this is the frequency of lifting with the "bulgarian method": Session 1 (Mon, Wed, Fri) Time Exercise 9:00-9:30 Front Squat 9:30-10:00 Break 10:00-11:00 Snatch 11:00-11:30 Break 11:30-12:30 Clean and Jerk 12:30-13:00 Front Squat Session 2 (Mon, Wed, Fri) 16:30-17:30 Clean and Jerk 17:30-18:00 Break 18:00-19:00 Snatch 19:00-19:30 Front Squat 19:30-20:00 Pulls Session 2 (Tue, Thu, Sat) 9:00-9:30 Squat 9:30-10:00 Break 10:00-10:45 Power Snatch 10:45-11:15 Break 11:15-12:00 Power Clean 12:00-12:30 Front Squat 12:30-13:00 Pulls so they are doing front squats 6 days a week, up to three times a day. and the other lifts multiple days in a row. and these are not light weights: you can see them lifting on youtube; intense. usually close to 100% of their max.

hey...fuggoff...i resemble that...what are you? Swedishghey or Norwegianlutefishfucker?? you really know how to kick a guy when he's finn.

who cares about "standards"? i'm more interested in challenges than standards. and there would be a heck of a lot less of them without bolting. i kinda doubt watts was too concerned with "standards" either, although i don't know. i'd imagine he simply saw walls of potential climbing that would have been unclimbable without bolts. talk about a kid in a candy store!

Looking for the punchline of an anti-Semitic joke? Poached right from another topic on cc.com: A real knee-slapper! Proud of yourself? B-bye! anti-semitic? care to tell me how that is "anti-semitic"? oh lordy, your anality extends way past rock climbing, doesn't it? plus, everyone knows judaism is pretty much the world religion equivalent of sport climbing. if one can't make fun of the jews, then one can't make fun of the finns. where would that leave us?

dwayner, i thought you were done here at cascadeclimbers.com? i guess i don't understand someone who keeps posting when the only thing they have to offer are incessant complaints and negativity? oh btw, what do you call 1/2 price bacon? buahahahahhaaaaaa funny shit!

Why bother? You've obviously already made your mind up that anyone is wrong that doesnt agree with you. Classic cc.com: pose a question and then shit all over anyone who attempts to contribute to an actual climbing related topic. That's some weak sock puppetry there Kimmo wrongo dude. you think i should simply agree with anything said? there are plenty of posts i've agreed with, and plenty i haven't agreed with. if you were to actually EXPLAIN some of your assertions, then we have a discussion. my feeling is though that you CAN'T explain the above contradiction, so you pull out the sock puppet argument. nice dodge. but honestly, i would like to hear an explanation of "rest" being the actual mitigating factor in bulgaria's dominance.

in fact, i would guarantee that the above interval workout would produce a faster miler than doing a buncha multi-mile runs a week below race-pace.

now that's a truism there, right? but i betcha a person who can run six or eight 50 second 400s with a minute rest in between can run a pretty damn fast mile without ever having run one, dontcha think? especially if they do this interval program for a few months, yes?

interesting info: from what i've read, roger bannister, first sub 4 minute miler, only ran 27 miles a week in prep for his record. most of it was high speed intervals, 400 repeats at around 50 secs a lap. he didn't have time for much more since he was a full-time med student! again, high intensity, lower volume.

smith rocks is an awesome venue for super fun climbing and challenging test pieces still, and i'm super appreciative to everyone who put in the time and vision and passion to make it happen. alan watts is obviously at the center of it, although it could have, and WOULD have, happened regardless; just a natural evolution of the sport. regardless, thanks alan.

I couldn't agree more. The bulgarian teams from the '80s/'90s -- and I actually know one of them from my life overseas -- couldn't pass a modern piss test to save their lives. hehe, nice change of the original quote, but it doesn't change shizzle cuz the soviets were just as heavily into drugs as anyone else, maybe more so (witness the bulk of soviet lifters vs bulgarians? maybe a clue?), and the bulgarians still kicked their arses. and john still hasn't explained his original quote about "understanding of rest days".

hate is the new love. i don't know how often it would result in injuries, cuz i'm not sure this specific approach has been adopted by many, if any, boulderers. is the injury potential high? it seems like it might be, so yeah you'd have to pay hella attention to body.

the hate has been explained. and look on the previous page: an excellent approach more in line with my previous bulgarian style of training. 5 days a week, only high quality moves relevant to one's goals.

you're such a love-bird. that's what i hate about you!

it's how i express love. i know it's not the best way to do it, but i hate you, rocky joe.

if you adopt the above scheduling, don't go until exhausted. if you have the v6 wired, and it's at your limit, you'd maybe do it a few times in the morning, with a nice 10 minute break between goes; then a few times in the early afternoon, same breaks, then in the late afternoon, and then in the evening. this way you recover well between efforts, you stay relatively fresh, and can give really good efforts every time. but not many have that type of time. i would also take day 3 and day 7 off. as a matter of fact, this is what i would recommend for hafilax, but on v4's. i would also have maybe 4 boulder problems i would use, and maybe one day would be devoted to a harder project, doing just individual moves and small linkage (again not going to exhaustion; maybe just a half hour session, 15 or 20 moves). after two or three weeks, i would start cycling new boulder problems into the routine, replacing the old ones. after a month or so, up the difficulty a little.

i'm here to change the world, starting at cascade climbers.

i have time on my hands. plus, there seem to be at least 3 people interested.

if you adopt the above scheduling, don't go until exhausted. if you have the v6 wired, and it's at your limit, you'd maybe do it a few times in the morning, with a nice 10 minute break between goes; then a few times in the early afternoon, same breaks, then in the late afternoon, and then in the evening. this way you recover well between efforts, you stay relatively fresh, and can give really good efforts every time. but not many have that type of time. i would also take day 3 and day 7 off. as a matter of fact, this is what i would recommend for hafilax, but on v4's.

i adapted to multiple days on by simply doing it. warm-ups i think are key. and perhaps limiting your climbing to an hour or hour and a half per session, although it's a little vague to put a time on it cuz two people can do vastly different things in an hour. but it can depend on other things too, like how long you've been climbing, your current level. i think it simply takes some time for the body to adapt to lots of climbing, and every body might adapt a little differently. being siked to climb is the biggest thing though. if you're hurting and not siked to climb, then you probably shouldn't (until you're experienced enough to push into this territory without crippling yourself). nothing wrong with a one on one off schedule though, especially if you stay siked and injury free, methinks.

plus, moon would break ondra's arm in an arm wrestling match.