OlegV

Yes, I am! Any interest in going this Sunday and checking it out?

thanks!

Any ideas if the Cooper Spur ice is in shape (other than possible avi danger)?

K4s - 1 year old, size 43.5 (~9.5-10) $ 150 That's less than 1/2 price! Very good conditions. ovarlamov@yahoo.com

Well, I am in biomedical business - I don't believe that carbs make you weak (as some unscientific media sources tell you) . The body needs sugar to convert it into ATP, which is the main and the only source of energy. Fat can be utilized as the energy source but at much much slower rate. If you are lean and have lower body fat, and eat the low carb food while exercising - you'll achieve nothing but the catabolic breakdown of your muscles. So, eat plenty of meats (proteins) and sugar DURING exercise. You need fat to rebuild your cellular membranes that need to be continiously regenerated during exercise. Don't overeat carbs while in rest and mix them with slowly-digesting carbs and fibers (absorption rate is slowed). And don’t listen to the media! Moderation, moderation and moderation.

OK, explain me something. Different types of climbing = different training needs. I. Grade III-IV alpine climbing (snow and low angle ice - includes 8K nontechnical slogs): You are pretty much using cardiovascular endurance and leg muscles. The upper body plays the secondary role as you go on 45-65 degree slope. It is mostly kicking, lifting legs, breathing hard. What benefits the most for this type of climbing? Probably trail-running, squads, biking and moderate weight-lifting. Do I need to stress my upper body by lifting 3xbody weight? I don't think so. II. Interesting grade V-VI alpine (super-long, 45-65 degree ‘slogs’ + some relatively short stretches of vertical ice and rock - when you go slow anyway). Still, do you need monkey strength for your upper body? Probably not. Again, need cardio endurance and big legs (and very good technique!). III. Big wall/multi-pitch ice climbing - agree, upper body strength is needed the most. Aerobics? Not really. Question. I do lots of trail running, on uphill terrains - this strengthens not only cardio and the lower body, but also your butt and back. What else do you need? Is running uphill at the maximum level sufficient for getting in shape for the highest non-elite alpine climbing?

Well, something more technical than West Butt - like West Rib or Cassin. I am open to the North Side as well. Grade VI - no, grade V - maybe, grade IV- definetly, WI-3 -yes, WI-4 maybe, WI-5 unlikely, 5.4 - yes, 5.8 - maybe, 5.10 - no.

Thanks Dan!!!

I am under impression, you get a lot of bulk when doing crossfit. Isn't it against the climbing wisdom? I saw these guys on crossfit.com - some look like sumo wrestlers. Doing more aerobics may keep the bulk off though.

superglue it!

sounds seriously bad. Maybe something at higher elevations?

Shoot, we are the same blood, bro! I don't think you have overboots though, don't you? OK, lecture me on insulated pants and what to wear, seriously - since you've been there. That’s what I have in mind to wear on Denali (if I ever make it there): Lower body: 1) long warm underwear(I go with 'Bask' polatrec thermal underwear) 2) Shcoller climbing pants - for everyday use. 3) Insulated pants 4) Gortex shell Feels like my b.lls are sweating already. Probably can leave scholler behind. Hmm. Or leave insulated pants and bring underwear/shcoller/fleece/gortex.. Shoot, where is my old russian blood - I remember -40C frosty winter in Moscow - you just wear regular pants plus wool pants and Upper body: 1) long underwear 2) long wool shirt 3) Fleece (can't decide what’s the best one) 4) K2-proof down jacket 5) Gortex shell

any ice in 11worth? anywhere?

Need: INSULATED PANTS (like ID Denali pants, medium) OVERBOOTS (40 below, size 10 plastic boots) SNOWSHOES (MSR) SHOVEL (metal, light) I won't pay much, will go with used or cosmetically unappealing items, photos are welcomed. As unexpectedly as it sounds, in this money world, I would also borrow any of these items. ovarlamov@yahoo.com

Hey Rojer - I think so, the upper part of the boot works as a vapor sponge. Once this sponge gets wet, the moisture spreads into entire boot, and since is made of some kind of plastic, the water doesn't evaporate and stay with you for the rest of the trip.

Climbing Ivan climbing ice step on the upper Ptarmigan Ridge, Rainier Scenic Sunrise on the Ptarmigan Ridge, Rainier Scenic Cold bivy on Coleman, Baker

Thanks for your advice: aveolite + Forty Below = 10 toes Just trying to save some $ on a gear. Berejonogo bog berejot!

Hey Kevin, I am trying to sell my K4S - great boots. They climb vertical ice, mixed and snow just fine. I had them on during winter ascents including Rainier, Baker and BC. Combined with the overboots, it is a very warm boot. I wouldn’t use them during the long expedition, as the boot gets wet and impossible to dry. Very light and sporty boot. Frenchi know how to climb and how to make best boots. The problem with my pair, I purchased them on the Internet and the boots were 1/2 size smaller than I need. When I noticed the problem (my heel developed blisters on the approaches), it was too late to return them. The bottom line, you are more than welcome to try them, if the size is right (10 US, 44 EURO).

I am still not sure if I need high altitude liners for Scarpa Iverno on Denali. Anybody had experience with regular liners in super-cold conditions? What if I wear thiiick wool socks and have extra-insulating sole below my feet? As I understand, most of the cold comes from below your feet - which is in direct contact with the snow.

Thanks Chad, Donn is a person who I should've contacted in the first place - I remember his barn full of stuff.

I kind of understand the main idea of crossfit, but can't find specific daily sequences, time, periodization, rest periods and so on. Basically, how do I build my own cross-fit program if I want to follow it in the regular gym? Any advice?

How easy it would be to build a small crossfit gym in the backyard? All you need is a few dumbbells, a barbell and a bar? I don't see them using much exercise equipment - mostly free weights and your own body.

Size 10-10.5 (43.5 Eur) $180 Boots are in good conditions. Climed for 1 season. http://www.sportiva.com/products/prod/264 http://www.sportiva.com/products/sizing.php ovarlamov@yahoo.com

Sorry to hear about your failure, Dan. We similarly underestimated this route - we had 2-3 days, and needed at least 4. Didn't have a tent, enough fuel canisters and it was too windy. Besides, we only had 3 screws - not really enough for hard WI climbing. I'd like to return and try the route as WI climb.

If ice was the same quality as we encountered higher up, I wouldn't trust it much - thin, porous and hard to protect. I don't understand why.