OlegV

Climb: Mt. Hood-Sunshine-Eliot headwall 11-6-4 Date of Climb: 11/6/2004 Trip Report: I was climbing Sunshine yesterday. The snow was wet powder up to 9000 ft. One I got into shadow of North Face the snow conditions changed to frozen crust with patches of ice. By mistake, I changed my route and climbed through the rocky icy chimney ending up on a steep icy Eliot headwall. I had to traverse it to the left and up just next to the rocky headwall. At a time, I thought the thin crust is gonna go, but it hold me for just about thousand steps. Backclimbing down the Eliot Headwall was OK but time-consuming. The lower portion of this steep downclimb was very icy and without snow. The crevasses on Eliot glacier are passable with the firm snow snow bridges. Gear Notes: ice axe, crampons Approach Notes: subshine

Anyone tried Cooper Spur approach? Is the road still passable, and how is snow condition? Thanks.

Hey Lon. Thanks for introducing yourself. You have a wonderful climbing experience. Let me tell you about my skills. I just moved from the East Coast (NY) to Portland two months ago. I started mountaineering a few years ago, did some winter climbs of Mt. Washington and Presidential Range in New Hampshire, High Peaks of Adirondacks (NY), Middle Teton, Shasta (standard route and Hotlam Glacier), Adams (Mazama Glacier), Baker (failed on Coleman Glacier). Also attempted Mt. Hood twice via the North Side (Sineshine). I like climbing solo, but it became very dangerous once I put my foot on the North sides of the mountains. I do very little of the rock climbing and have a long way to go learning ropes. I've taken a couple of climbing courses with Sierra Wildness (ice and axe) and Mountain Madness (Glacier mountaineering). A big reason why we moved North West is its proximity to the finest peaks in the US. Of cause Rainier is the world on its own. Just like you, I'd like to learn steeper routes. I am almost 38, train daily in gym and on trails. As for a training climb, I would gladly rehearse a climb with you on the North Side of Mt . Hood (if it is not too far from your home). The advantage of the North side of Hood is its proximity to the road. It only takes about an hour to get to the base of Eliot Glacier. I never completed this route due to bad weather. Sunshine is not particular difficult, but involves few sections of steep snow and ice and plenty of crevasses. What do you think? It is also OK doing any other route on Hood or any other mountain Oleg.

Souns like OR or BD will do it. Thank you all.

I am looking for partners to climb Rainier on a long Thanksgiving weekend. Any early winter Grade II-III route. Anyone with and without Rainier experience?

I need an advice on mittens/gloves for cold weather mountainering. Do they have to be GorTex? Any specific brands with reasonable price?

You are right Ivan, Milosh would know how not to freeze his ass of even at 100 mile/h wind without a tent. I kind off ignored this lenticular thing on the top of the mountain at sunset. I didn't expect the weather to turn so bad at night. Base camping on Eliot in high wind was an absurd idea. I was gonna do the Sunshine route anyway. Last weekend I had to turn around at Anderson rock because of a total whiteout.

I spent a miserable night just below the Eliot Glacier yesterday night. What a drug! The entire trip was a disaster. My Subaru got stack in a snow twice. I was lucky to dig it out, somehow. I had to park on a side of the road and hike up to a trail head for a quoter of a mile. By the time I got on a ridge it was 7 PM and the weather got worse. I got down to the base of Eliot at 8 PM and tried to set up a base camp in a snow dip. My tent was like a parachute. I ended up leaving this idea, and dagged a small cave and put myself into state of hibernation for about an hour. I did not have a bivy and only had 20 C sleeping bag. Not being too happy in my shelter, I had to retrieve at midnight in storm and spent a few hours in a car. A couple of climbers passes me around 1AM asking if I need any help. I drove back at 2 AM.

I am from Portland. Anyone wants to climb glaciers of Mt. Adams, Hood, Rainier in October and then? I am learning glacier travel and will benefit from more experienced climbers. I climbed North side of Shasta, attempted Mt. Baker's Coleman Glacier. Need more experience on steep ice. Thanks. Oleg.

Did you have experience with them?

I am moving to Portland in 3 weeks, and looking for a long and/or short term partnership to climb Cascades. I am very much interested in learning more technical routes on Mt. Hood, Adams and Rainier. I also plan Denali spring/summer. I am an advanced beginner in mountaineering. I did some winter climbs in New England and Adirondak, Mt. Shasta. I'll spend the next week on Mt. Baker learning glaciers. Eager to learn steep snow and ice. If someone interested in partnership (weekends in Cascades, Alaska and Rocky Mountains expeditions), drop me a line: ovarlamov@earthlink.net Thanks. Oleg P.S. Is there a mountaineering club, I can join in this area?