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Everything posted by OlegV

  1. Trip: Mt Hood - Illumination Rock - East Ridge of South Chamber Trip Date: 09/06/2020 Trip Report: We climbed the South Ridge of South Chamber on Sunday. I camped several hundred feet away from the IR on the boulder field and met my partner in the morning. The lower ZigZag glacier and the Illumination saddle looked like a war zone, but the night was pleasant. I saw the Lyon Head fire from the distance (my apologies for a grainy image) and at first though it was a lava flow from the Jefferson. The Mt Hood looked surreal. The snow at the base of the IR is mostly gone. We climbed the ridge to the left of the large brown spot and then traversed the face to the summit. Climbing I-rock (I wouldn't call it a "rock"). The slab pitch (#4?) At the last pitch - it felt like the summit rock is made of sand. We still look happy at the summit. Reid from the rappel station The crux of the climb was getting off the IR. There are numerous loose blocks laying around frightening to kill you. The last rap brought us on the steep unconsolidated slope. We traversed it to the right. I do not recommend to climb this route in summer... Gear Notes: medium rack, ice axe, crampons (worked really well on the dirt), beer before and after the climb Approach Notes: South Side
  2. Hi Alex, I saw your post and got exited - you are back to NW! How are things going? I hope your injury is nothing serious. I've been getting through the same "sitting too much" problems - neck pain and knee injury. I am looking for alpine partners as well. Have you climbed in WA Pass? I just climbed the Burgundy Spire and would like to go back in August - early September and do the Liberty Bell and The Early Winter Spires. If you are interested, here is my contact info: varlamov@ohsu.edu 503-808-0883 Best, Oleg
  3. I am looking for a long-term climbing/training partner in PDX. I am less interested in cragging and more interested in long alpine routes. If you like trail-running and pristine alpine wildness, we might be a good match. Oleg varlamov@ohsu.edu
  4. Liberty Ridge - Ski descent accident

    Hey Jason, it brings up some great memories from our 2004 winter ascent of Gibbs Ledges!
  5. Liberty Ridge - Ski descent accident

    we are not that old
  6. Liberty Ridge - Ski descent accident

    We should team up Dan! I always wanted to do a 5.8 rock variation. The climb of the veterans
  7. Liberty Ridge - Ski descent accident

    I actually liked the PR better because of its remoteness and variety of the terrains
  8. Liberty Ridge - Ski descent accident

    Getting on the other side of Forbidden is a real pain though.
  9. Liberty Ridge - Ski descent accident

    Dan, your LR experience sounds classic - Thumb Rock is falling apart and scarring people. I suspect some of this rock derbies turn into a meteor shower flying down the first pitch of the LR. I've never had any problems with the rock fall ABOVE Thumb Rock, although people did get hit by the avalanches there.
  10. Liberty Ridge - Ski descent accident

    Whoever called the LR the "classic climb" was wrong. I've climbed this ridge twice and each time my partner or I were an inch away from being hit by a flying rock. The PR is a much better and safer objective. There is nothing aesthetic about LR either. The bottom line, the LR is a boring dangerous place.
  11. It looks like they are turning the T-line into a crazy land. We now must purchase a ticket to get there? As always, the businesses and the government are trying to patch their budgets out of our pockets and the climbers are not even considered. There are other ways you can climb Mt Hood. Park at the snow park parking lot across the White River Recreational area and follow the White river canyon to a great weakness in the canyon wall from where you can get to the south side. This trip will add extra 2000 ft to your climb. From Mt Hood Meadows, you climb North-East-facing routes
  12. Is Smith Rock open?
  13. Thank you for sharing your TR. Did you have a good look at the Black Spider lines? Is there any ice on the face?
  14. Did you have a good look at IR?
  15. The weather forecast may improve in the next week or so. I am looking for a alpine partner to climb snow and ice (if there is any left). Some ideas: Mt Hood (Devils Kitchen HW, Sunshine, NF gullies (considering low snow level, it's a stretch and an extreme calf burner) Rainier (Gibbs Ledges...maybe) Chair Peak (NF?) Extreme hiking is always an option
  16. Reid HW

    looking for a partner to climb Reid HW; leaving the T-line sat am; 3/16/2019 ovarlamov@yahoo.com
  17. Outstanding trip and pictures! Thanks for sharing.
  18. Unrepeated routes in N Cascades (winter type)

    I recall, Shuksan's Hanging Glacier hasn't been climbed in winter, but I might be wrong.
  19. Few more pictures. Bala chopping steps and following a fun pitch 4
  20. I am just happy Bala led the last crappy pitch and I was enjoying a view of the North face
  21. United we stand, divided we fall
  22. [TR] Forbidden Peak - North Ridge 07/15/2018

    Extraordinary trip - thanks for posting the pictures and route conditions. We are planning this trip in August and hope the moat will be still passible.
  23. Looking for a 3rd person for climb the NR of Forbidden. Open to other options in Pickets.