gyselinck

If all thats on your mind Layton, i dont ever want to drink with you

GOing in that way sucks if you havent done it before. Wait a minute, it sucks if you have done it before.

I wouldn't be able to handel all the girls. (If I had any car I would be happy )

Anyone live in Redmond who likes mountains? (and has a car? )

How are they supposed to be ready for the adventure without going out and getting the experience? Maybe the scientific breakdown is a good way for them to discover if there ready. Not everyone is born a hardman climber. When I was learning to climb I got the all the beta I could, a scientific breakdown as you say. I remember once I really wanted to climb the Improbable Traverse on Guye Peak, but I was so scared at the thought. I researched it online, read multiple books, talked to people who had done it, climbed the descent route, took recon photos, and once watched some climbers for an hour or more on route from the parking lot. (Whoa, I did all that for Mt. Thomson too. )Even then the thought of going up there scared me, made me feel sick. We finally did climb it and it went way smooth, of course I knew every route detail, however. But that’s not the point, the point is, is that it helped me learn the processes of alpine climbing. Now I hardly ever climb with a guide and have little to no prior knowledge of climbs that I do. It’s all part of the learning. I also think that climbing can be pretty emotional, which is why we tend to get so worked up. Kind of funny considering climbing means nothing, its pointless. It’s a waste of resources, time, energy, and maybe even your life. Everyone climbs for different reasons. If someone wants good beta, that’s there call. Why should someone else care? If you don’t want it, don’t read it. I think its pretty cool that catbird spent the time for the write up, rather then just brushing someone off. Cascade Climbers is a place to share information, its good that someone got what they neeeded. Hopefully it will help make there trip go smooth, be a little more enjoyable.

Snow will be no problem on route, but bring an ice axe for approach. I would recomend not camping at Ridge Lake, but continuing over Bumblebee pass and camping in the basin below Thomson. It is much more pretty, there is a stream for water, you won't see any people, and it makes a shorter approach the following day. (You could also do it car-car easily, but camping will allow you to enjoy the area more.) Go climb Toppling Tower to.

It's friggen' scarry shit. It is the hardest "4th class" move I have ever done.

Were those pics taken yesterday (June 2), or on May 2.

I was just kidding around, quoting the beckey description, which I think all of you should read, kind of humerous. But, I wasn't kidding about it being the biggest choss pile I have ever climbed. Quotes from Beckey: "First ascent made in May 1915, an early date for local rock climbing, by Charles Hazlehurst and Thomas Acheson. They doubted they might survive the descent and one of them wrote his will on shirt cuffs. The peak was not climbed again for 9 years." "a difficult overhanging rock cornice near the top should be attempted only by those with steady nerves and sure feet shod with plenty of number seven calks." I would be interested in trying your way.

Found last Thursday along with lots of booty on Snow Creek Wall. I am going to make a habbit of climbing the "classics" every Monday so I can build a nice rack and replace old gear. I tried to get cook to put his hand in the picture for size comparison, but he declined.

I think we did a new "variation" last winter, though it wasen't on purpose, got a little "off route". What a freaking choss pile, hard to navigate on. My friend said it was the cloosest he has come to death in a long time. Frigin' loose rock everywhere. Like Beckey says, do not attempt unless you have sure feet and steady nerves. A bunch of number seven calks might have made it easier. We almost wrote our wills on shirt cuffs. Hey Klenke, why isnt your name up there?

damn, im not doing to good. If anyone found a pair of sandals in the snow creek parking lot, those are mine to.

Right on.

Yo Clintoris, whatever happened to that balls to the wall climb you did up one of the hardest mountains in the Chugard or however you spell it.

Might have been us that you heard. Saw your foot prints, to bad we didn't run into you.

Set em down where the first small creek crosses the trail just before the trail flattens out and goes below the Snow Creek Wall. They are old and beat up, but I would still like to get em back. We ended up going a different way back down so I don't know if they are still there or not. Thanks.

Today we went up to snow creek wall and rap bolted the two upper pitches of outer space to make sure its safer for future generations. On approach we saw the biggest rattlesnake I have ever seen. The thing was frikein huge. We were walking really fast so it scared me as much as I scared it, it was pissed. Maybe Cook will post a pic? I also heard a big slide came down across the trail, talked to a couple of people who turned around because of it, though they didn't exactly look like the climbing type.

It is suppose to be pretty warm (and is) through the week so should be prime (s. facing) by next weekend if thats what your thinking. Crack might be a little wet I would guess, but go for it and post a TR. PS. I forgot to ask my friend, but I think you can drive to the end of the road now too.

Post deleted by gyselinck

Don't bivy, you don't want to have to carry all that shit. But if you must...You can bivy on the moraine just below the route. To get there, go up the standard way up to the Stuart Basin. Follow the climbers path until you look over and see Argonaut directly across from you then cut over. Scramble up a boulder fielf, then some snow covering rock slabs, then jump on the glacial moraine. Beware, don't cut over to early from the stuart climbers path or you will find yourself in a thicket of slide alder, which isn't bad..if your into that kind of stuff. (I would recomend going light, doing it in a day, carrying over to Colchuck and descending that way) edit: I would also recomend post a TR

Friend went there last weekend. Didn't use snowshoes, but said the crack on the S. Face is completly filled with ice, if thats what your doing.

I didn't mean 5.11 A0, I said 5.11 (A0). I don't hike 5.11 in cold wet snowy blizzards. I pulled on gear up the 11 section. Consisted of a crack going over an overhanging roof onto face climbing. Cook and L0ngpause prusiked up it. I don't have any pics of it, but just thought I would clarify. Layton, unless you like waiting in lines, don't go there, way to crowded.

Yee-haw!! I forgot to mention, I was kidding about my recomendation of going up rat creek.

Climb: The Mole-West Face Date of Climb: 5/22/2005 Trip Report: Cook, Longpause, and I worked a route up the W. Face of the mole on Saturday, May 22. I had no route information, thus followed lines of weakness. I can’t compare our route to any descriptions in Beckey book. At first I thought we did the 1948 route, but looking back it doesn’t match either. If anyone has any good topos of the W. Face I would love to see them. Climbing was stiff and complicated, estimated crux pitch was 5.11 (A0). I think we did 8 or so pitches. The route contained nice cracks and run out slabs. Weather came in complicating matters. It snowed almost all day, strong winds, low visibility, very cold. After getting off The Mole we got lost in thick clouds and descended the wrong gully and headed over a mile in the wrong direction. We had stashed our bags and all our extra gear at Mesa Lake, but ended up way down Rat Creek. We finally found our way back in the dark, during a snowstorm and found our packs around 4:00 in the morning. Ended up being a 20 hour day, we were wet and cold. The Mole showing W. Face Somewhere on the W. Face. L0ngpause descending, nice and dry. Gear Notes: 60m rope, small rock rack made shorter pitches but there would be rope drag anyway, ice axe Approach Notes: Toketie Creek, though I recomend going up Rat Creek, watch for ticks

There is hella snow, yes you would. They got a little bit of fresh too.