gyselinck

I think its some kind of religious zealoty robot warrior thing, isnt it? Or is that just to much N64 starcraft when I was little.

yeah, i climbed the lower section of it, but then did some wierd thing up top.

Some Comments: No Cook, we can't post photo's. The Mole is a secret, no one can know about it. Its mine, all mine, dont even think about going there. I had promised that I wouldn't swear on this trip, but broke under pressure. Swearing is bad, but nescessary when scared. Beckey says to climb 80 feet to a fork and to take the left fork to a ledge belay. We took the right fork. The thrid pitch wich Lyger is reffering to was a full 60m of dirty 5th, which I couldnt much pro, thus the swear words. All belays were hanging. Very fun climb, my favorite of the day. I've been through Rat Creek, Hook Creek, and the Toketie Lake way. Not sure if I like Toketie or Hook Creek way better, but Rat creek just blows. "Lyger is always right." If theres one thing I learned on this trip, always listen to the Lyger. Shes right about 99% of the time. (That means im right sometimes) I was trying to cross a patch of water ice, which she told me not to. I ended up falling 15 feet down a steep scree slope at a really fast speed. I now have a huge bruise on my and lots of cuts on my arms. Lyger's cousin is one tough guye to go all the way up there with a cold. Plus he carried the beers. Lastly, Lyger didn't mention that she was always covered in flies because she stank so bad. All in all, the mole makes a nice outting. Lots of stuff to do there. Had a great time as well.

I don't work for the FBI.

How you do that?

Looking for information on routes that you've done or know of people doing. I've done a couple lines up it. I know whats in the Beckey book, done those. Im just looking for info on maybe something you've done that isn't recoreded. Or anything in that little area for that matter. I'm always looking for new things to do. I like to climb anything and everthing, no matter how cool or worthless you think your climb was. Send me pm's please.

Hey Lyger, you want to go running??

We should all go in there and do it this weekend!! I'll carry a heavy pack with bolts, if you bring em and place em. I kept seeing bolts sticking out, but they pulled the hangers. You might be able to get away with it that way, just bring hanngers and using the bolts already in, the second could retrieve the hangers again.

From the Challange of the North Cascades, by Fred Beckey, regarding the plane crash. Often on dreary days I wandered in spirit to these flowery meadows with clear-running streams and star filled nights. But not until late September did a group of us find time for a full week in the Crags. Between the end of summer jobs and the start of Autumn Quarter at the University of Washington many climbers were available. Pete arranged for a pilot to fly from Kenmore Air Harbor on Lake Washington and drop supplies among the pines beneath Lighthouse Tower. We were on the scene when the plane came over, ready to spot and retrieve the bundles - dufflebags containing food, ropes, and gear. But to our alarm, the small plane suddenly went out of control; a load had fallen against the right-hand stick of the dual controls. Flying slow and low, the pilot, helpless, crashed into boulders. Fortunately he escaped unhurt except for shock and bruises. All plans were abandoned, of course, until we could escort the pilot to the road and then bring in a party to carry out salvageable parts of the plane.

Some of it was wet, so weight isnt a good measure. I just measured it all out to be about 98 feet of webbing. And this was only on two little peaks. Plus I know Lyger took some that didn't get in my bag. Has anyone on here got up Lighthouse?

Climb: Temple Ridge fun-Lighthouse Tower attempt, Comet Spire, Mount Temle Date of Climb: 9/19/2005 Trip Report: I wanted to visit someplace nice, somewhere I hadn’t gone before. Sunday morning Lyger and I went cragging at Vantage and discussed options. It must be noted that Lyger fired up Bob’s Your Uncle, free solo, without chalk, barefoot, and blindfolded. There’s just about as much truth to that little story as the climb I told her she should lead, which was only 5.7. (Turned out to actually be a 5.9 ) By the end of the day we chose to seek burly adventure in the Enchantments on Temple Ridge. She had been there once before and could be my guide. My other choice was the Nightmare Needles. Monday morning, accompanied by deadbeatchrist, we headed into the wild, well kind of. Our first objective was to climb Mount Temple, then Black Pyramid. However, upon reaching upper Temple Canyon, I was enlightened by the sights of Lighthouse Tower. What a marvelous sight. If only the airplane had taken such note, as did I. Airplane: Lyger had tried to climb the tower once before, but failed. Huh…I thought in the back of my head, I can climb that…I begged and begged; finally deadbeatchrist and Lyger agreed that we could change our itinerary and climb it. I stashed some gear and off we went. Lighthouse Tower: As we started up the West Face, there was a very strong wind. Soon my hands became so cold that I could hardly pull the trigger to place a cam or even clip a karabiner. I resorted to A0 to gain a ledge only 15 feet from the summit. I yelled down to the others that I would belay them up, we had this, and it would be easy from here. Lyger climbing up Lighthouse Tower: I noted a 7 inch wide crack off to my left which looked like easy going. I belayed them up and began inspection of this crack. I had no pieces that came close to fitting in it, but I still thought I could run up it. First I tried to free it, but wimped out for fear of taking a whiper onto the ledge below, there was no pro. I then tried to aid it off a bolt, with no hanger. Aid attempt: I got high enough that I could easily get up the crack, but couldn’t see where it went. Again I wimped out, this time for fear of getting stuck up there. Next we tried a shoulder stand; yet again the crack put us in our place. Shoulder stand attempt: I could see it lead nowhere. Time for a new plan…Next I spent 15 minutes trying to throw a rope over the top, where we could prusik up the backside, but couldn’t get it over with the heavy wind. We tried everything we could possibly have done, but couldn’t mount the summit. It is completely void of cracks on all sides. We bailed. (I will be back, next time with a bow and arrow to shoot a string over the top, and then pull the rope over.) Next we went to Mount Temple. This climb was a ton of fun and offered great views. By this time the sun had risen and our fingers and toes had warmed. We sat on top and took lots of pictures. Summit photo: We descended Temple and decided we didn’t have enough time for Black Pyramid, so instead we climbed Comet Spire. This was also a fun little climb, which seemed to be rarely done. Summit photo: I’ve been trying to clean up the mountains lately and brought back just under 10 pounds of old webbing, from these two peaks. Pretty crazy that theres that much up there. After Comet, we all had had enough burly adventure and began the long trudge home. We hiked through the night. Had a ton of fun. Awsome area. Want to go back soon. Gear Notes: brought huge brown, heavy Beckey Book Approach Notes: Easy because we followed Lyger

Haven't been in the area, but heard a recent report that it snowed 3 in. at Prusik Pass. Wonder if it stayed or melted out.

In that picture it looks like free climbing. Are you saying that you climbed 5 pitchs of 5.12 and 5.13?

I was thinking that Lizard Wall sounded really cool.

Thanks for the input olyclimber! What are we looking at in that picture, what direction? I'm thinking thats the needles on the far right?

I was more thinking the stuff on McClellan Peak, like Little Snowpatch, Fire Spire, Fire Wall, Nocturne Tower, Fantasia Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, those things. Nobody wouldn't happen to have a distant picture of any of them would they, or have been there? Theres just a sketch in the Beckey. Looks kind of like an interesting area to check out.

How come there arn't any TRs for the Nightmare Needles? Anybody ever go there? It looks like a lot of little cool looking crags in the Beckey. Anybody been there? Know anything?

No, its an attempt to change the subject. This thread went from trash talk to ego boosting. I'am better then you, no im better. No, Im better then all of you. Your all stupid. No, just your stupid. It was fun while the rain lasted.

You guys write up good TR's, I like reading em.

What up Erik, ill be there around 18th I think. I just a little desperate to get some boots before school starts. Returned my old ones to REI and they refunded them completly.

Whats the TNF sale, thats a hella good deal.

Now i just need to find a good deal somewhere on those Nepal's. $420 is just a little pricey.

Where the hell have you been man? I lost your phone number, should send me it in pm. You going to school this year? If so we'll have to get into the Enchants fo sure!

Frenchman Coulee is a loose pile of ugly shit. Why anyone want to climb there is behond me.

Any new CWU students out there? Last year around this time I posted asking this same question and met a lot of cool people. In the beginning it seemed like there were so many climbers that I didn't even learn names. But as time went on, the more serious, dedicated ones stood out and a tight network was formed. (Top roping 5.5's at the Feathers can only do so much for ya.) We had awesome boulders, sport climbers, traditionalist, ice climbers in winter, and even a few whacked out people who liked to suffer in the mountains. Establishing a close group of climbers ensures that we all get out more. Last year there was always someone wanting to climb and getting out 2-4 times a week was not uncommon, we had tons of fun. Late night cragging runs to Vantage became the norm. It would be rad if we could do this again. If your going to central and looking for some partners send me a pm, post on here, or something.