
rhyang
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Everything posted by rhyang
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Google is your friend.
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I'm looking for partners to climb the left Hotlum ice gully on Shasta. Beta is that it's already formed. 55 degrees, about 6 pitches. 150% snowpack this year means good snowbridges on the glacier, easy bergschrund crossing. Flexible on scheduling - anytime after the coming weekend (there's going to be a guided group up there, and anyway I have plans). Willing to swap leads.
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altrec.com - something like $80, potentially with additional 15% off. I hate the spirlock binding, but if you already have the leverlock, then it's basically cheap replacement parts for the pointy bits. and it's the old antibott (which I normally replace with plastic from old juice bottles anyway).
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Shasta Mountain Guides The Fifth Season (Confusingly enough, there is a town called "Shasta" just west of Redding. The town near Mt. Shasta is called, well, "Mt. Shasta" Some nice scrambling / peakbagging / backpacking in the Trinity Alps, but careful of deer season (I think archery season is going to start soon). The DFG would have more info on that.
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[TR] Mt. Rainier- Inter - Emmons 7/21/2005
rhyang replied to TheBootfitter's topic in Mount Rainier NP
Thanks for the rather generous TR Christopher For 3 of us this was our first time on Rainier. The guy who organized the trip had been up the DC with RMI. We weren't sure what to expect. Other gear notes: - 50m x 8.5mm dry rope - 6-7 pickets. What were we thinking ? One per person would have been fine. - a DMM deadman. After reading Snowball's TR from a few days earlier I think I'll continue to carry this. - I brought 2x irbis titanium (el cheapo) screws, which were fine for the low-angle but bare ice on the Inter (granted we could have avoided this by staying to the right on the snow). Will continue to carry these since they are light. - I also brought 2x BD turbo express 19cm screws. Definitely dead weight on this trip. Maybe not for LR or the Kautz though ... We also should have spent some time doing CR scenarios as a group, but as it happened the organizer himself had no CR training, and one of the guys had never put on crampons nor practiced self-arrest on snow before (let alone group-arrest ) The crumbly rock down from Camp Curtis to the Emmons was definitely more hairy than I expected. Initially we didn't unrope because the sun was going down and and we (I) thought it would be an easy class 2 thing - turns out it was more like chossy nasty class 3. I would hesitate to call it class 4, but I learned rock scrambling in California, what do I know. Coming back up we unroped, which was probably wise. I thought it was the most fun part of the approach despite the crappy rock. The first two glacier trips I'd been on were instructional in nature, about 9 days worth on Mt. Shasta's Hotlum. This was my first outing with an informal group, and I learned a lot. -
I was taught this method also - they called the surface between the pick and adze the axe's "spine" I believe.
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Now you need a pair of these !
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I just noticed that Granite Gear has come out with the Alpine Vapor - any idea if it is hydration-compatible like their Vapor Trail pack ? The info listed on the GG website doesn't say. I did shoot some emails off to ask, but thought perhaps someone might have actually seen one.
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Just echoing that thought. A couple weeks ago there was bare ice on the Inter glacier, though generally it could be avoided (the ice was gray or blue; not white like snow). Later in the season I'd guess there may be more patches of it in places.
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wow David that's incredible. Didja get my email ?
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Did it seem like v-threads would have worked, or too soft for that ? Also just curious about what kind of gear was left ... wondering about what seems to hold best there.
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rock wall of doom ?? Install cables ?? I thought that was basically the only fun part of the approach ! Well, except for the exposed ice on the Inter ...
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never met him; wish I had - heard so much about him. rest in peace, sir.
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[TR] Mt Rainier- Disappointment Cleaver 7/13/2005
rhyang replied to snowball's topic in Mount Rainier NP
fantastic job David ! -
I'd be up for checking out the Eliot next month sometime, if anyone else is interested... coming up from the SF bay area (former resident of portland) Or, if anyone is interested in coming down to Shasta and doing some climbing on the Hotlum I'd be up for that too, though it's been a big snow year - probably later in August I'd guess before the crevasses really open up. It would be cool to meet some cc.com internet spraylords
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How are things on the lower Eliot (Hood) ?
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vise-grips might also help
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got shut down by weather a few days ago, but I bet we would have been wearing all our insulation up there anyway and looking like hamsters
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Any thoughts on how things might be next week ? We're planning to attempt the Emmons route around Friday next. Thinking now maybe I should take some extra 19cm screws and draws (bringing a second tool for pounding pickets anyway) ... or maybe just a few more pickets ?
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It's not very detailed either. Notes on suggested pro, if present, tends to be stuff like "nuts more useful than cams", etc.
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Doug this is just Petzl-Charlet's way of saying "upgrade your tools and buy more stuff from us"
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My cheapo digital scale reads about 620g for the aztars (hammer and adze are both about the same) and about 750 for the quarks (both are hammers). Stock leashes; pick protectors; quarks have the griprests attached. I figure the catalog weight for the aztars is without the leash, but am too lazy to remove them and check. The clipper leash seems to weigh about 50g. Maybe the catalog weight for the quarks is without griprest or the clipper screw-on post, too. hmm.
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My experiences with aztars: - lighter weight. this is good if you're humping them in on some godawful approach. not quite so good if the ice is cold, brittle and hard. - pick teeth not beveled. this makes them harder to clean out of the ice, but I guess for steep neve or self-arrest maybe this is a good thing, to resist shearing ? or is it simply that the tool is cheaper and you get beveling for extra $ ? In any case, a file can take care of this. - head configuration fixed; can't change out hammer for adze, and vise versa. My experiences with quarks: - easier to stack tools because of the head shape. - hook extremely well. - beveled teeth; easier to clean out of the ice. - heavier. - can switch out adze for hammer, etc. Granted I haven't done any dry-tooling, mixed, picket-pounding, or pin-hammering with either of them. I'm more inclined to use the aztars on less vertical ice, maybe up to WI3+, and in softer conditions. Outside of that and I'll be swinging the quarks. I like Petzl stuff, so sue me.
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Seems like Vibram should not be a problem to resole. Any insights ? I should email Dave Page perhaps.
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Firm snow or neve ? Can't be ice yet...