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rhyang

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Everything posted by rhyang

  1. A digression - I was discussing crampons with one of my ice partners in the car recently (it's alpine ice season down here) and the subject of whether or not crampons are aid came up. "Well of course they are" he said, and went on to surmise that there were probably "bouldering mutants who can just campus up the ice". Made me laugh
  2. PMI Verglas 8.1's
  3. Interesting. The documentation that came with my reversino seems to say that belaying two followers on twins is a bad idea. OK for doubles, but not for twins. Not sure why this is so, or if I interpreted the Petzl heiroglyphics incorrectly. My dual rope setup is rated for double / twin use anyway, so I'm not worried (yet).
  4. I picked up a pair of PMI Verglas recently, and have been happy with them. Wish I'd known about the Beals though - nothing online I've seen says anything about them being certified as doubles and twins. I guess the packaging / docs that come with them show the dual ratings ?
  5. Sorry to be off-topic; I was climbing an ice couloir in the eastern Sierras last weekend, and there was fresh snow on the "glacier" (such as they are down here) and the lower couloir, balling up like mad. The last two pitches were hard, brittle water ice. I have to admit that I was using G14's with the factory latex plates instead of juice bottles. But on petzl & BD crampons I like the juice bottles more !
  6. Have you actually tried this? I have heard this many times but in my personal experience, they suck el supremo. Plastic blows out damn near immediately. hey Doug. I use this stuff on my horizontally-framed crampons and it works fine. Never tried it on vertical-framed crampons like your Rambo's though. Doesn't your partner Jeff use Trango Harpoons that he made antibotts for out of bicycle inner tubes or something ? Maybe he has some tips...
  7. ~660g sounds better - my scale said about 22 oz, but after seeing the 720g on the website I figured I had to have done something wrong
  8. I wouldn't worry about the antibott plates - you can make your own from plastic juice bottles and wire ties. There's even a how-to article on the internet out there someplace ...
  9. Could you weigh it, both with and without the removable back pad? I am very interested in this pack and would like to know the real weight. MEC lists both 390 g and 720 g for the Std pack, could it be that? If so, it'd be a sweet Genie replacement w/o the back pad. drC 720g is more accurate, and the foam pad is only about an ounce or two. "If it sounds too good to be true ..."
  10. The Alpinelite 30 is not the same weight as the Genie - in fact, the MEC website now states the weight of the Alpinelite is 720g. Just got one in the mail and sure enough it weighs more than a Golite Jam (which carries something like 11L more) !
  11. I had an opportunity to compare and contrast sarken's and G14's. If the ice is hard, cold, and brittle, I prefer the G14's - can't beat rambo frontpoints for that stuff. If it's more likely to be aerated, soft, or just frozen neve then the sarken's are a good bit lighter.
  12. Doug's pics from Sunday: Hoodie N Face (Yes it is coming in for some fall action!) Camilo gets his first taste of ice The bitch wishing for some rock to drytool FYI: the ice lines Ivan named Triple C last year have started forming but with the recent weather will likely dissappear unless the freezing level drops this week. Still some nice fall WI should be coming in! If anyone goes up there could they report conditions in either this thread or perhaps start one in the ice climbing forum? Finally I am headed up there this weekend. If you are interested in going (either day) get a hold of me! ICE Anyone planning to do this again this weekend ?
  13. I saw it on the Scarpa UK website recently. As Scarpa is no longer going to be distributed in the US by Black Diamond, I'd guess it will show up on the Scarpa North America site at some point...
  14. I really like the darts too, and also sampled the dartwins last season. I'm hoping to check out the sarken's on some couloir ice in the Sierras later this fall. Was hoping to get them out on some alpine / glacier ice earlier but it just hasn't happened yet.
  15. I decided to ask BD a couple of things, and got some responses : 1. shaft and pick are both B-rated. 2. hammering pickets in with the spine is not recommended. 3. Availability in mid-November.
  16. This seems to be another variation - a longer axe with a nonreplaceable recurved pick, sort of like the grivel jorasses.
  17. looks like they're sold out now. sorry about that.
  18. Just curious to know if anyone has actually seen one of these things...
  19. Unlike cc.com, SP.org doesn't have a way to associate forum threads with trip reports (it's a custom job that isn't being actively maintained on a regular basis). So in the meantime people start threads in the appropriate regional forum (in this case the California forum) and insert a link to the TR. Here is that thread. Hope this helps.
  20. Another item on this sad event.
  21. Google is your friend.
  22. I'm looking for partners to climb the left Hotlum ice gully on Shasta. Beta is that it's already formed. 55 degrees, about 6 pitches. 150% snowpack this year means good snowbridges on the glacier, easy bergschrund crossing. Flexible on scheduling - anytime after the coming weekend (there's going to be a guided group up there, and anyway I have plans). Willing to swap leads.
  23. altrec.com - something like $80, potentially with additional 15% off. I hate the spirlock binding, but if you already have the leverlock, then it's basically cheap replacement parts for the pointy bits. and it's the old antibott (which I normally replace with plastic from old juice bottles anyway).
  24. Shasta Mountain Guides The Fifth Season (Confusingly enough, there is a town called "Shasta" just west of Redding. The town near Mt. Shasta is called, well, "Mt. Shasta" Some nice scrambling / peakbagging / backpacking in the Trinity Alps, but careful of deer season (I think archery season is going to start soon). The DFG would have more info on that.
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