corvallisclimb

on the 5.8 crack on rope de dope?

I'm trying to get sponsored by Adidas for climbing!

Trip: Yosemite - Washington Column - Ten Days After Date: 5/9/2007 Trip Report: My friend Darrell called me saying he had a 4 day weekend and wanted to climb a wall. We had been talking about doing one together for a while and now the time was finally here. With a short amount of time we would have to choose something shorter. We opted for Ten Days After on Washington Column. Rated V 5.8 A3/C3+F in the supertopo we where not sure what to expect. The rack required quite a few pins and heads. So after finally leaving Oregon late Friday we arrived in the Valley Saturday morning. We hung in the meadow for a while rested and racked up, then made our way to the Awhanee. We got the the base after a while, the loads where heavy as we had stuff for 3 nights. We decided to start on the first 2 pitches of the prow to avoid wet grassy clibming on the original TDA pitches. Darrell took the odd pitches (free cruxes) and I took the even pitches (aid cruxes) so Darrell fixed the first pitch that evening and we slept at the base. We woke up pretty late and got a slow start, but soon the pigs where off the ground and we where on route. I soon was leading P2 of the Prow supposedly there where 2 rivets that escaped right from the Prow belay to the TDA belay. I clip the belay and look around then I look 20 feet blow me and spy the rivets, so I wind up lowering and penjing to the TDA belay. Darrell made quick time of the first pitch on TDA. Soon I was off on what I thougt would be on of the cruxes. I managed the pitch clean wich really boosted my confidence. Sime dicey cam hooks and top stepping where key too this. Some guys over on Astro Man took some pictures of us on that pitch wich I hope to get soon. Pitches 3 through 5 on TDA follow a steep, overhanging diheadral, looks beautiful from the ground. Then Darrell again made quick time on an easy C2 pitch and where at the spot where the route traverses left back onto the main face. We set up the ledge here wich was kind crappy in the overhaning diheadral, but after some booze and medicine, we where both asleep. Next morning I got to start it off with the A3 traverse. This pitch was mostly fixed with heads but there where some hook and cam moves. The next pitch was the only pitch where anything really happend while on route. Some thin gear off the belay leads to a bolt then a fixed KB in a roof. Darrel clipped the fixed blade but soon enough PING! "falling!" luckly I managed a good catch and he didnt fall very far, I was the only one who got hurt having my hand slammed between the grigri and the wall. Darrell yarded back up and lightly tapped a cam hook into where the fixed blade had been, another cam hook and he was on another rivet. Those taps to the cam hook would be the only time the hammer was used on route. After this one more pitch of TDA before it joins the Prow for the final pitches. This pitch had expando marked all over it in the super topo, so I was kinda nervous. I didn't find it to be bad at all, and soon we where back on the prow. Darrell lead one more short pitch and we where on tapir terrace a nice break from super haning belays. We fixed another pitch and then set up the ledge a little sooner than the night before, so we got a little drunker and quickly fell asleep. We got an early start the next morning and made quick time of the last 3 pitches of the Prow and we topped out by 12:00 we lounged on the summit for a while stuffed our selves full of extra food then packed up to get ready for the North Dome Gully descent, wich really sucks with heavy pigs. Back to the car 4 hours later and soon where where in the Ahwahnee eating smoked salmon and havinh ice cold beers. Another allnighter in the car and Darrell was able to make it to work in time. All in all a fun route, that was cool the try and do clean. Now here are a couple pictures: Darrell on P3 Me on P4 Darrell in the morning atop P5 Darrell on P9 Welcome home atop P9 not many great pictures but thats wall climbing. Gear Notes: wall rack Approach Notes: easy

The book... Rock Climbing: Southwest Oregon: Rouge Edition Is the only known(by me) recent publication that has some coastal climbing stuff in it. It does have a fair amount but I dont have it sitting right next to me so I can't tell you if any of the areas in it are near Cannon Beach. But there is tons of choss out there so I imagine you'll find something. Linky

If they where smart they would allready have been moved. Go check it out that thing is rad! If you do know what I'm talking about

A couple of days ago I was checking out a known rock wall in Oregon to scope some climbing. This things huge but only has 3 routes, so there is'nt a real trail or anything leading to it. You follow above one side of a drainage for about a mile of uphill manzanita choked forest slogging. About a half mile into the hike I thought I heard a voice or something and look up to see a guy running through the woods with camo gear on and a knife in his hand. Immediatly I thought oh shit hunters and yelled towards the guy who ran and hid "were people, not deer" but still kinda thinking that it was weird the guy just ran off. I take a couple more steps up hill and thats when I saw the 60 or so foot tall weed plants, yelled to my girlfriend to come to me and then into the woods I yelled "hey were cool we mean no harm". At this point I still wasnt sure if they where crazy rednecks with guns or stupid hippies. I stood there and looked at the plants for a little bit, they were encased with wire, there was also a back pack sprayer painted green laying there. Now I'm just thinking shit well we hiked all the way up here we might as well go scope the rock. After a quick trip up to the rock we made are way down to the truck skirting around where we had found the plants to try to avoid any problems. Kinda an odd vibe the rest of the hike thinking someone may be watching. Anyways we got back down to my truck on the side of the road, and as I was loading some stuff into the back a car with some guys slowly drove by giving me a very odd look. I gave them the watch out signal as they crept by. Soon we where onthe road and headed out as we caught up with the same car, sure enough they pulled over as they thought they where being followed then got right out behind me. After seeing the guys in the car I kinda figured they where stupid hippie that we freaked out way more than either of us. Anyone else have a crazy story like this of growers or something like that getting in the way of a climb or something. Was a trip for me

smith rock state park Pheonix Buttress - Carbid 2 Anchor bolts W Mark D 4/07

Redpoint should let you copy anything you need out of Lawsons red suppliment. Or mabey Mountain Project will have what your looking for.

ya those bolts are now bomber

ya its a sport route that goes off after the 1st pitch of super slab. its usually pretty stupid IMO usually the FA party being lazy or poor. what other routes are you thinking of? on amphetimine grip right next to red rover, at the better belay spot theres an ancient fixed pin, where the gears not the best, does any one care if this fixed pins replaced? amphetamine group was climbed in the ground up era and should be honored as such. imho, the pin should be replaced with a pin - if even at all. when the pin comes out a nice stopper may go in. Exactly why I suggested pin for pin. The spot most likely wouldnt take a nut, it would be a thin LA I think. Right now its an ancient ring angle, I'd assume from the FA. I'll probably just leave it, but I much prefer that belay spot on that route, but the rest of the gear in the belay are some akward flared aliens. Not the most secure for the run out above. Classic route that deserves more traffic.

ya its a sport route that goes off after the 1st pitch of super slab. its usually pretty stupid IMO usually the FA party being lazy or poor. what other routes are you thinking of? on amphetimine grip right next to red rover, at the better belay spot theres an ancient fixed pin, where the gears not the best, does any one care if this fixed pins replaced?

What are people thoughts on making the 1 bolt anchor on red rover on the red wall a 2 bolt anchor? or making the line go on to anchor? thats my possibility?

Its really quite easy, Tie off the first bolt, then clove hitch the next two, keeping the rope tight. If you've got your soloing system down you should be able to do it no problem. Many aid routes don't start out as bolt ladders, but most aid routes have been soloed as well so there should be something there.

this usually only happens on aid routes. but if you do wind up doing it dont place a couple feet off the ground place a couple inches off the ground or under an over hang, just look for the most hidden spot. also look around for pin placements.

unitll someone figures out how to edit old post im going to just add onto the bottom smith Revelations/Irrevernece 3 Anchor bolts W Mike Latyton 2/07 Revelations/Irrevernece 4 Lead bolts W Ian Roth 3/07 menagerie Rooster Rock - Original Route 1 Lead bolt 4/1/07 whoops! I double posted the above... oh well anyways I went up and rope soloed rooster rock yesterday. After talking to Jim A on the phone decided to replace the one old bolt on the original route thats just been there for ever. Now Rooster Rock one of Oregons original sport routes can easily be lead with no gear at about 5.6R only clipping the lookout bolts and the one new bolt. If you want to safely climb it bring 3 cams 1ea #1-#3.

This is the one near santiam pass. They did some major clear cutting down near the road, only really visable from the turkey monster/bridge area of the Menagerie.

ahh you lucked out i was just down there and there where hoards of people everywhere, and the weather was shitty too!

Yeah all ASCA bolts for smith stuff are 1/2"

Trip: Menagerie - Rooster & Hen Date: 3/29/2007 Trip Report: Today I made a made a quick trip into the Menagerie. The temps where perfect, and the rock was almost all dry. Didn't have much time so all we did were the Rooster and the Hen. We probably spent more time approaching than climbing, but thats lower Menagerie this time of the year. Everything was dry except for the first 30ft on the Rooster, wich prompted a little more gear than normal. And now for the photo stoke... sure looks closer from the parking lot! coming up the rooster summit of the rooster hen slab - feels more like a 10a every time hen summit with the rooster in the back ground showing the west face diheadral up high south face of the hen and the egg, the highest concentration of solid high quality routes in the menagerie here Gear Notes: few cams and nuts draws Approach Notes: long and uphill

1/2"

i think your right, i remember reading/hearing that somewhere too. thanks for sparking my memory. i'm pretty sure thats what i was looking at then... so who wants to go back there for a few days with me??

freaking good tr :tup:

Anyone know anything about routes in leslie gulch? when i was there i only found a couple of old looking routes(star dryives and the likes, with mabey kim schmitzs hangers?), then one wall that looked like it might have been chipped... I assume its probably boise climbers in the know. whos got the beta, this place is by far cooler looking than smith and 10 times bigger. but no bolts!

heres a good one, pm me for more topos and or info but if your just getting into aid, all routes on the monkey go clean & and town crier at index is a awsome route to get your aid down on. the east face provides for some good sustained clean nutting, dont pop onto your belayer on the cruxy part of p2

to praise them once again.... i sent mine in last april. some hybrids, and one green that had the "dimple". they sent them all back within 3 weeks(mabey less?) all fully replaced except for the lobes, this was nice since the green was thrashed. i love these suckers and hope CCH stays alive.