Ireneo_Funes

This has literary precedent. From Othello, Act 1, Scene 1: "IAGO: I am one, sir, that comes to tell you your daughter and the Moor are now wearing the Goretex jacket with two backs."

Is the worst climber the one having the least fun?

I'm working late Thursday, otherwise I'd join you. Hoping to get up there tomorrow morning and flail some more on Emotional Rescue - that's a great route; thanks for bringing it to my attention!

Dude, anytime you're going 200 mph on a public road you're putting others at risk...not just yourself. There's no time to react when you're going that fast. Maybe if you're out on the salt flats...but otherwise you're loco!

Exactly.

Are you loco? I'm sure it's fun and all, but going over 3 times the speed limit's hardly a victimless crime... Should drunk drivers get a slap on the wrist the first time too?

Thanks, guys. Sounds like there's at least a couple different ways to do it.

But last time he lost by 543,895 votes, and we saw how that turned out... Have fun in SE Asia. My sis just got back from a year in Chiang Mai - loved it.

What's the consensus on the best way to back yourself up when jugging? Tying in short (w/ a clove hitch? figure 8?) or using a Grigri? If you're tying in short, is there a rule of thumb for how often you stop and retie? Kind of a basic question, but I haven't done any aiding yet...just curious what you big wall guys think.

007 & I would beg to differ.

Wow...did you take that?

I hope TJD doesn't tutor his sons in England...in a tudor. Seriously, what do you mean by "I just do not think the Northwest warrents the climbing attention this boards it offer..." Aren't our cascade jewels worthy of attention?

Glad I'm not the only one who thinks it's a little strange encouraging the guy who got caught breaking the rules to go out and educate other climbers on the issue. Whether or not it's good for his own reformation, it doesn't seem like he's got the right credentials for the job.

Yeah, seems pretty clear. Don't feel sorry for the guy; sounds like he got off easy. What's the minimum sentence for leaving a big metal box (like an ammo can) on top of a peak? Just wondering.

I'm totally impressed by what you've done so far, Erden. It sounds like you've got a really good attitude - can't wait to read the TR!

The Scot-bashing on this site is out of control. Dru, you're not one of those self-hating Scots, are you?

Tom Lopez's "Idaho: A Climbing Guide" has information on some of the routes on Chimney Rock. I wouldn't be surprised if there's a more detailed guide out there, though. Looks like fun - have a good time!

Don't worry, bunglehead, you're not the only one with a lame job. I'm thinking I might as well be counting belugas....

The funny thing is, when I was a kid I thought that's how people climbed stuff...by tossing up a grappling hook and climbing the rope hand over hand.

I guess cleverness is subjective. Chuck was alluding to the famous speech in Hamlet where the sullen prince says something like: "To link, or not to link: that is the question: Whether 'tis nobler in the mind to suffer The slings and arrows of outrageous belays Or to make an anchor against a sea of troubles, And by rappelling end them?" ...at least that's how I remember it.

why not just climb to the 3rd belay instead of using your second belay if the 3rd is only 25 feet higher? Next time I might do that. It was our first time on the route and the 2nd belay station seemed like a pretty obvious spot (complete w/ ancient piton). There'd be a little rope drag if you skipped our 2nd belay station. With the benefit of hindsight, I'd probably try to go for the nice ledge that we made our 3rd station. I was giving this as an example of how we decided to set up our stations on a route that we'd never done before, though.

Chuck is making a clever literary allusion, Caveman!

I think bomber natural pro is a good reason to stop and set up a belay station, especially if you don't know what's ahead. A couple of weeks ago, we did the Open Book route on the Finger of Fate in ID. After the second belay station, you can either go about 25 feet and set up the third belay on a great ledge with good pro, or you can keep going and hope your rope'll reach to the next decent spot. Deciding to make the 3rd pitch ridiculously short was the right call. I'd rather break it up and keep it fun, rather than try to link and make it terrifying. But if I was comfortable simul-climbing I'd probably answer differently. I'm not going for any speed records a la the Huber boys.

Chevy Avalanche.

What if I just think about sending it...with a hemp rope and wooden wedges? We're talking devolution... the end of jocko homo!