selkirk

such a misconception... you can take that up with Lynn Hill then cus thats who i learned it form general statement. this might be true comparing a beginner male to a beginner female. Definitely a general statement. But given a man and a woman climbing at the same maximum grade, I have yet to see man who relies more heavily on technique and efficiency than his female counterpart, and I have yet to see a woman who relies as heavily on strength and power as her male counterpart. ummm...i can point to quite a few women who have significantly higher relative strength to their weight than men... You obviously haven't observed very much high end climbing or bouldering... So can I. There are lots of chicks who are much stronger than many guys who climb. Comparing me to a girl who boulders V6 and climbs 5.12 is comparing apples and cumquats. Taking two people at the same grade levels the field though. How many girls do you know who climb at the same level as you do, and who are stronger but have worse technique?

such a misconception... you can take that up with Lynn Hill then cus thats who i learned it form general statement. this might be true comparing a beginner male to a beginner female. Definitely a general statement. But given a man and a woman climbing at the same maximum grade, I have yet to see man who relies more heavily on technique and efficiency than his female counterpart, and I have yet to see a woman who relies as heavily on strength and power as her male counterpart.

"For God could no longer be found in his traditional steeple houses. But seemed to dwell more vividly in the bare austerities of his earth's high places." From Ascent, the bio of Willi Unsoeld (Fantastic book!) "If we had some ham we could have some ham and eggs. . . . . if we had some eggs." Greg Child I think?

Well, they do smell better. And have much better hip position! Just go to the gym a bit early and hang out for a while. Usually lots of talented climbers floating around to watch. Don't watch their hands but how they position their core relative to holds and relative to their feet. As far as I've seen 90% of climbing technique is in the hips and the footwork! If your getting pumped and worked always assume that it's not that you aren't strong enough, but aren't being efficient enough in how you spend your strength.

Mrs. Selkirk almost went climbing It was raining at Smith anyway She drove all the way down, and pretty much got skunked. But did have lunch at the Deschutes Brewery (Serious beer envy from Me). And fantastic food at a friends parents house where they were crashing Oh, and watched another friend win the singles and mixed double Badminton tourney in Tacoma!

Almost took the whole weekend off. Then I blew it and went to work Also almost led Stems and Seeds, then I wimped out and TR-ed instead

Woohoo, damn things up! Star drive screws, did the trick ! Thanks all. Now I can continue hurting my fingers

hmmmm, Sunday afternoon. After work

I should be so lucky tonight. I'm thinking square drives would do it though. Slow, but the bits shouldn't slip out and strip the heads.

hmmm, not particulary wide heads 1/4" or 3/8" maybe? The heads fit the standard phillips head bits I have. I see where you going there, is there something with a wider head that I get some more torque on before it slips? Now that I think about it I should probably just get square drives

Oh, they start just fine (used a small bit for that). It's getting the last 3/4" of a 3" screw in that's driving me nuts!

Ok, get your mind out of the gutter.... Anybody have any tricks for driving screws in awkard positions? I'm trying to mount a hangboard and having a hell of time getting the screws to sink. It's an old house so I have a feeling it's a 2"x8" beam behind the door, and I just can't keep enough pressure on the drill or screw driver to keep the bit from slipping and stripping the screw heads I don't want to drill too large a starter hole so that I don't comprimise the strength, and I don't know that I would trust a small bit to get in 3 inches?? Any ideas would be much appreciated!! Cheers

Are you callin me fat!

Are there slung trees or bolts and chains to rap from?

Walkoff shoes :tup: Extra pieces in the #1 camalot size (cams, hexes, tricams, chalkstones, whatever) (2nd headwall pitch) Extra pieces in the #2 camalot size (cams, hexes, tricams, chalkstones, whatever) (1st headwall pitch)

Ellensberg has a Taco Del Mar on Canyon Road. It's about as close to healthy as I've found out that way.

Marriage doesn't make people miserable. People who suck make people miserable.

The falling forces really tie back to the fall factor and elasticity of the system. 11 kn is probably fine in a dynamic system (biners are 22kn, cams and other pro are usually rated to 14kn though). Might not be good as first piece on a runnout pitch where you could get a high fall factor, but 2nd or 3rd piece with a bunch of rope it and I imagine it would be fine. Probably a bad idea to use them as a personal anchor though where it could be subjected to short static falls. Rock and Ice, or Climbing, or someone did a bunch of short drop static falls to see what forces were generated on gear(maybe a year ago?), and it really didn't take much of a static fall to hit 11kn.

Spray is like candy. It doesn't have to have a purpose

Id/Wash... Born in Kennewick, grew up mostly in Boise / Coeur D' Alene

So let me get this straight.... Very dangerous.... Currently seems stable, likely will not improve.... Can't safely protect with gear..... Bolts are obnoxious .... Sounds like a good candidate for a midnight trundle in the name of cleaning the route?

Somebody send the man a drysuit and a snorkel

You don't want to ask that question right now....... It's an addiction........ OH, and I had to replace two cams so I have 2 new shiny springy twitchy things now All gear whores please raise your hands !

Yes but did you give all your cams a good scrubing and lube job?

Whatever you do, don't commute across either of the bridges ever. Going North/South blows, going East/West blows goats.