selkirk

I had about the same experience a couple of years ago flying to Denver to go ice climbing in Ouray with a buddy. So not only were there lots of metal bits, most of them were damn sharp! I was pretty sure there was no way in hell they'd let me take ice tools as carry-on TSA just left a note saying the bag had been searched but no damage to speak of. I'd just say if anything is delicate do what you can to pad it.

I think with Avalanche danger it's always a check and verify process. The NWAC website is a great starting place and is probably good for a go / no-go decision in Seattle. Once you're there though you should absolutely be checking snow conditions and digging a couple of pits on representative slopes / exposures to be sure. IMHO the only defense against avalanche is information and a willingness to go home and drink beer.

The smallest Zero cam looks frightens me! It would look more at home on a key-chain than a climbing rack That said, I do love me Zero's! (though I love me some master cams too!) Zero's from blue on down Master Cams / TCU's from Blue on up

Definitely a WC. Scratched up silver (not the fancy new colored anodized) should have a purple sling, roughly fist sized? Josh

In general less is more! That said I'd gather everything you think that you'll need to take with you, go down to REI and try cramming it all in to a few packs. What ever it fits into comfortably, I'd buy a pack a few liters smaller and figure out how to make it fit anyway. I've taken Personally I've had good luck with as small as a 30L pack for light overnight alpine rock trips.

mmm.... Dalwhinnie 15 :tup: Macallan 18 :tup: Laphroig 10 but not for the faint of heart! I was having a little a couple years ago and Mrs. Selkirk decided she wanted to try. I poured a little snifter neat, and before I could tell her to sip slowly she gunned it She eventually started breathing again but it took a few minutes Have yet to try the others but they're on the list now!

My parents where in Florida (i was just a baby) when Ted Bundy was executed. Prior to that my father had been a passive supporter of the death penalty. After watching the fervor and the blood lust that Bundy's execution drew from the people he changed his mind. The world may not be a lesser place (and even this could be argued), but there are people who are now lesser for applauding at has death.

what he said! From a practical standpoint it doesn't make sense. Let's spend more time, effort, an money to kill someone then to let them stay in prison? I would tend to view life in prison in many ways as a better punishment. It offers the opportunity for self redemption if they choose to take it, and if they don't then they can rot in situ. From an ethical standpoint, taking a life is taking a life, whether it was directed by the state or not. War, and conflict is a different basket, but the death penalty is in cold blood. It's a tragedy, and a waste. From a prevention standpoint, I think it's been pretty clearly determined that the death penalty is not a deterrant. The people who commit these crimes don't have the forethought to think through the consequences of their actions, or are so arrogant to believe that the rest of us are stupid and they would never be caught.

Has anybody Tried out the the EB Rainier Guide pants yet? I recieved a set for X-mas, but also just managed to pick up an older set of Mountain Hardwear Argon Ice pants and need to make a decision about which to keep! Their damn near identical in feel and fabric density. Visual differences boil down to zippers, a belt, and about 2oz in favor the Argon Ice, but both are nice trim, clean, light hardshell pants.

mmm bacon .....

Mrs. Selkirk and I might be interested as well, and have a 6 week old at the moment.

Mrs. Selkirk and I might be interested as well, and have a 6 week old at the moment.

look what my wife got me!! and she decided we needed a digital SLR to document said little one, so i got two new toys for Christmas oh and on X-mas eve i officially became the Godfather

I think it's appropriate to seperate "climbers" from "ice climbers". Anyone who climbs Ice (especially in a place where the ice as bad as Washington) is a very special breed of friggin idiot

I'd never argue against a cell phone or a PLB being useful. ( I typically climb with at least one cell phone in the party, even in remote area's). But does having one change the final outcome of the accident for the victim / rescue-ee?

This same question has been running through my head ever since the MLU discussion first came up. It seems like PLB / MLU's are great if your lost and need someone to find you, but I have yet to here of a climbing rescue where "lost" is the problem. It's usually, rockfall, icefall, crevasses fall, avalanche, or a significant climber fall all of which involved a major trauma. That coupled with the fact that climbing rescues take many hours after the rescue is initated at best, and days if the weather isn't cooperative, and anything that would be life threatening in the front country is likely fatal. For climbers, it seems like MLU's / PLB's are more like a body recovery tool and I'm reluctant to require people to carry gear for that purpose. For sailors and boaters where PLB's are required, it's a different story again. I expect that what they are protecting against is a motor going dead or a mast breaking leaving the boat dead in the water, and your effectively "lost" and just need somebody to come get you.

There are three kinds of lies. Lies, damn lies, and statistics

If the Death-cicles aren't threatening than the Devils Punchbowl is a reasonable lead, even for a non Water Ice leader. Left side goes about WI-2, right side goes about WI-3, and from the top of the Left Side you can top-rope Trotsky's Folly at WI-4. Also, below the Punchbowl on the left hand side there is also a little column (30 ft maybe?) that you can set a Top rope on, and is protetcted from the Death-cicles above the punchbowl. Has anyone ever gone after the death-cicles with a rifle? It seems like a nice 30-06, early in the morning, would fix those in short order You could also have a go at Umptanum falls in Ellensburg(?), though I haven't been there myself.

Trent, Was it needed or would it just have been nice to have? This same question keeps popping into my head regarding MLU's and PLB's with respect to climbers. Of the accidents and rescues that I can recall in the last few years I don't remember any where having an MLU or a PLB would have saved anyone's life or limbs? (Please correct me if I'm wrong though!) Avy beacons are a different beast in my mind and I certainly carry one when in Avy. country.

You really needed to ask that question last week I think everything in Western wasthington is probably a puddle right now. Ice climbing over here really takes a good cold snap of a week or two before things form up. There might still be something over by Leavenworth, and Banks Lake might be in (climb descriptions can be found in the guidebook previously mentioned). you might also have a go at Dry Tooling at the SR900 Crag in Issaquah or the Black Ice crag at Exit 38. Good luck!

People don't act base on the potential consequences if they get caught. That's why the death penalty isn't an effective deterent. He just never thought he would get caught.

It's been a good year Climbed more than I did last year Climbed more at Index than I did last year 100+ pitches (pretty good for me!) First Aid Lead (City Park ) First Aid Fall (First roof on Iron Horse ) Longest multipitch to date (Diedre+Boomstick Crack+Ultimate Everything = 17+ pitches in reasonable time ) Hardest Alpine climb to date (South Early Winter Spire, Direct East buttress and I led all the crux pitches) Hardest free alpine pitch to date and first alpine falls (North Early Winter Spire, West Face) Hardest Sport Redpoint to date and the first climb I ever projected (Climax Control, 5.11C Led it on my 2nd attempt with falls and Redpointed on my 3rd lead attempt (with to TR laps thrown in)) Finished the Mountaineers Intermediate course Confirmed as a Mountaineers Climb Leader and most important of all Had a little baby girl 1 month ago today She's still too small to use a gri-gri though. Maybe next year!

That's what I was concerned about! I don't have any pins and only 1 or 2 stubbies

i just can't believe the thread got the chop before i could read the whole thing. i could swear i saw 20 posts at one point

i'm less conerned about the climbing than the gear! if i come home to the Mrs and the 1 month old with a broken ankle i'll never here the end of it though Mrs. Selkirk rocks. How many other brand new first time moms would let the other half go ice climbing