KaskadskyjKozak

Isnt' that Dru?

Bud Selig did not clap for BB. Did anyone?

no

I sincerely doubt this. It may have the same cholesterol lowering effect, but cannot contain a synthetic compound such as Atorvastatin. "Red yeast rice when produced using the 'Went' strain of Monascus purpureus contains significant quantites of the HMG-CoA reductase inhibitor lovastatin which is also known as mevinolin, a naturally-occurring statin", according to Wikipedia. aromatic hydrocarbons, hydroxyl groups, carboxylic acids... it's all coming back now

Linky

clackety clack

Diamond Dave looks like crap

Yes, that's what I was thinking. But I don't want to collect a lot of gear either. The more I do, the more I want to do and end up doing, so waterfall ice is not out of the question in the future either.

Put it this way: every climb I have done to this point has been grade II, very moderate. The steepest slope might get up to 40 or 45 degrees for a short stretch (mostly snow). Now I plan on getting up some grade III alpine routes (or even steeper grade II) where a second tool would be nice. Think N. Ridge of Baker, Adams Glacier, Fuhrer Finger, maybe Edmunds Headwall and Liberty Ridge. That'll keep me busy for a couple of years. I don't plan on doing vertical waterfall ice in the imminent future, but who knows - never say never. Thanks for the advice!

Thanks CC!

who doesn't?

The marketing online for axes like the Aztarex make a point of the straight shaft being better for "penetrating" snow. Thanks for the insight (though the sarcasm was not necessary). There is also the weight issue, which would be nice to hear some comments on. Aztarex and Grivel Light Wing make a point of this, as I recall. If it's more market-speak w/o a real need or any other downside, that'd be good to know. And yeah books are great - but just one resource.

Kid Rock

Basics aren't taught how to place pro, or in general how to build anchors unless it involves slinging an enormous tree. For snow anchors they are shown how to build a good dead man, and a bollard, and shown the limits of pickets. In the course of a basic climb the basic will never build an anchor, but only clip into an anchor built by a more experienced climber. Nor will they place pickets for running belays. That said some of the more focused inquisitive ones do ask good questions, which I'm usually happy to answer, or refer to someone who knows more than I. Intermediates are taught more on snow anchors, and ice screws (with the caveat that only with oodles of experience will you learn to evaluate ice.) For rock anchors the standard was a 3 point equalized coordalette, and they've transitioned to John Longs Equalette this year, with the caveat that every situation is different and you need to think about/evaluate your anchors for direction of pull, stability, etc. They learn to build belay anchors. The person who would suffer from bad / insufficient instruction there would be the leader who relies on that belay - not the student belaying from it. Hence, it is on the instructor to make sure the anchor is sound before he climbs a route from it.

Just how many years of experience and certifications are required to teach people to tie in to their harness, read a topo map, tie knots, and discuss gear, clothing, hydration and food for climbing? Sorry but one year is enough. If you're talking about LEADING climbs that doesn't happen after one year.

adult ropeup? sounds naughty

ice cragging on the Coleman Glacier terminus

Wow, you ate a lot of guacamole.

your age / demographic are very similar to a typical climber in the mountaineers.

I hadn't seen the terminus in 4 years and it was obviously melted out since I last saw it.

Can anyone else vouch for the Aztarex for this role? I've got a similar goal as the originator of this thread. I tried the Quark's this weekend on an outing and liked them. I'm not sure they'd be great for plunging in snow on steep alpine stuff because of the handle shape. A compromise might be the Aztar's, which also have a handle. Any comments out there? The other tool I tried was the Grivel Light. It has a straighter handle/shaft than the Aztar and worked well on the steep ice... not quite as well as the Aztar though.

He's African-American not Pakistani...

+1 Spray Park will get you the most bang for your buck

BB is jizzgurgling clownpuncher