KaskadskyjKozak

you should bitch about the weather, glassgowdick - there's something to legitmately whine about now

My 12 year old is a double-black diamond skiier now. We started him at age 4. 3 just seemed too young to make any traction.

I did think that self-regulation was working pretty well to this point, so I'm unclear as to why it is necessary. Well if you recall when Adam introduced himself, he did point out that he spoke with, "A duo of climbers," who were shut down at Playground Point because of crowds, most likely on a weekend. Gasp! No way! I could not even imagine the Duo of climbers' disappointment when they then went to Roto Wall and too found it very busy. Clearly management needs to be instituted. Signage and climber education would have prevented this unfortunate incident for Duo of climbers. I would hate to think that duo would need to open the guidebook to search out a possible alternative crag. Yeah, maybe they can block the path of unregistered climbers like they do now on the Colchuck and Snow Creek TH's "Where are you going? Your pack looks too big for a day hike..."

fock no! I killed it with vodka! No shit. Takaya zaraza can't survive in an environment like a Russian's bloodstream (>0.20 BAC)

Dunno about your question but hope to see a TR soon :-) I'd like to get those two... and around this time of year seems a good time for it

Now you like slow sex? I bet you wanna know, Oleg, but keep reality and your fantasies apart . I always normalize the reality with my fantasies, Nastia "U nas seks nyetu"...

Now you like slow sex? Wooah... is there more to the story on this "Great Gendarme" bivy? :-)

sounds like BC Parks are actually managed by reasonable, thinking people using sound policy decisions - our NCNP rangers should learn something from them.

Yes, it's almost gone. Not much too it anymore

Bez muki net nauki

Are you sure you are not Slavic? ;-)

Right now I follow the rules and permits to a t, even when I don't like them. If the pendulum swings this way, I'll poach the shit out of the "managed" areas.

Good Question FW. I don't mean to sound cynical but it is all about the money - follow the money and you will have your answer. Federal agents, when deployed right, can be effective revenue generators for the government. Maintaining roads, on the other hand, will not generate revenue. I moved to Socal from the PNW a couple of years ago and I have seen the future. Agents everywhere collecting money in any way possible. It is difficult to hike or even drive without being accosted by an armed agent. My wife was recently issued a citation for "stand up paddling without a permit". Wow! Ridiculous!

there is a Russian saying I like: za odnogo bytogo, dvukh nebitykh dayut Translating word for word would be too terse. Suffice it to say that Russians consider a man who has been beaten down to be considered a valuable one to have around for future endeavors - more so than two who have not experienced a beat-down :-)

Chasto vykhodit, chto voobrazheniye interesnee, chem realnost'

It's great late season- hard to find a glacier that is so mellow in Sept, and I bet it would be fine right until fall storms hit.

Thanks Daniel! Ordinarily I don't do a ton of repeats, but I'd climb this route again. Can't believe it took me so long to check it out.

Trip: Ruth Mountain and Icy Peak - Standard Traverse Date: 9/14/2013 Trip Report: The days are shorter and the immaculate weather of summer is deteriorating right quick. Alpine options narrow. What to do? What have I not done yet? Partners? Ruth-Icy. Fuck yeah, motherfucker. T-storms and 70% precip are forecast Sunday, but Ruth is doable on the first day, and that campsite with Shuksan's huge full-frontal nudity is hardly a consolation prize. We go for it. We march march march up the low angle trail to Hannegan Pass, treading on mounds of horse shit - sometimes fresh and almost runny. It's fucking hot out. Ruth looks good. Yeah a bit worn and used up, but still quite "doable". A mighty gash is visible, but so is a snow bridge, even from afar. From Hannegan we pass the half-dry pond, and ascend the mud gully from hell. Some of us fall, ignominiously, on our keysters. Eventually we emerge from this poop chute onto open, rocky, bone-dry slopes. It's hotter. I sweat like a whore in church, wringing a few ounces of sweat from my bandana repeatedly. We round the ridge, Baker appears like a ephemeral ghost. Ruth, Shuksan, Nooksack tower, the Price Glacier... it's like a row of Playboy Centerfolds. We ascend a dry ridge to snow, rope up and head up and climber's right in a great arcing traverse, avoiding a few cracks that are visible. Eventually we hit the Bergschrund, make a hard left and cross a mammoth snow bridge. The snow is firm, as befits the surrounding mountain porn, right up to the top, despite the heat. We are alone on the summit of Ruth. We savor the moment and drop to camp along the ridge. There's still a snowfield, a trickle of water, and glorious, glorious mountain porn. And the sunset provides an explosive, orgasmic, kaleidoscopic finish to it all. We are truly blessed. The winds are bad all night. Both outside the tent and inside. Backcountry Pantry my ass... more like Backdoor Flatulantry. But I digress... I imagine we will be in a white-out for sure come dawn, as forecast. So let it be written so let it be... But wait, no. At 5 am, it's completely clear and starry. FUCK YEAH MOTHERFUCKER!! We arise. My share of a coveted bottle of Stumptown cold brew hits the spot and starts both my motor working, and my bowls to set in motion. We avoid the shitty-gully-from-hell by staying just left of it, find the climber's trail and do the long, dry rocky traverse to the base of the glacier on Icy. En route, thanks to Stumptown, I release the Brown Hostage. We enjoy similar conditions to our previous day - fine firm snow, a few easy to avoid cracks, and easy routefinding to climber's right to end run a gaper, and find a huge snow bridge up across the schrund. We round the rocky ridge and scramble to the base of the final gully. My favorite partner MM solos up it. I drag a rope (glacier) for others and place two pieces on route to the rap sling. We are treated to perfect weather and views. No storm in sight. This. Is. Fuck-ing. Awesome. We reverse our path down, becoming progressively more tired and insistently eager for the beer in the car. We fail to beat the clock by only a few minutes with about an hour of rain, Donner und Blitzen. We headlamp a few minutes too. It's all good. Except for maybe the shweaty balls and swamp ass. Fuck yeah, motherfucker. Gear Notes: Ice Axe, Crampons. C4 #1, #4 BD stopper.

guide

Nicely done! And cool pics!

No goats at all - just some traces of their poo. Tons of people hiking the trail to the lakes though

Trip: Tomyhoi Peak - SE Ridge (Standard) Date: 9/8/2013 Trip Report: Tomyhoi is mostly a walkup with one short, exposed class 3 section. The setting and views are pretty awesome and worthy of making the trip. I did it C2C with 3 friends yesterday. We hit the Beer Shrine afterwards to make for a perfect September day. Yellow Aster Lakes: SB and MM ascending the short snow traverse to attain an notch in the ridge: SB on the most exposed section of the ridge: N Cascade glory from near the summit ridge of Tomyhoi: KK and MM on the summit: MM and PG downclimbing class 3 to a notch: Canadian Border Peak and American Border Peak above the Tomyhoi Glacier: Gear Notes: Ice axe. Crampons were nice for the short snow traverse. Approach Notes: Gorgeous

suckage!

Well-stated! This is what bothers me - for the reasons curt states. People who solo generally come to this path intentionally, as experienced climbers. Newbs don't need to be inspired to solo routes like W Ridge of Stuart - they need to become experienced enough first to make this personal choice.