KaskadskyjKozak

Hey, awesome TR Kuato! I had the luxury of using a real bridge when I climbed Primus from this approach a few years back. I'd like to go back there and either do the Inspiration traverse, or just bag Tricouni. I was wondering if you considered backtracking N along the opposite side of Thunder Creek after crossing it? Other than backtracking a mile or so, was there a reason not to do that?

can't wait to see them!

Congrats on the Smoots dude!!

He texted me a couple of times. He wanted to go to Squamish to climb, and also was looking for info on the approach to the DC/Cool Glacier route on Glacier Peak. I met him at a Pub Club once somewhere in Ballard I think. I also saw him "in the wild" a couple of other times. One time he was headed up to climb something in the Liberty Bell group and my climbing partner lent Fred his helmet (we were headed out) because Fred had forgotten his. My favorite memories were him at the Bulger Party talking out loud during the presentations (he was hard of hearing and was speaking super loud). Such a legend!

Bulgers are a nasty obsession - good on you for keeping it at bay. But the Smoots... don't you have just one left?

That's the plan. Cracks are already showing in this old, broken body, but I'll keep getting out as long as possible.

Trip: Colonial Basin: Snowfield Peak, Colonial Peak, Neve, Paul Bunyan's Stump - Standards Trip Date: 07/08/2022 Trip Report: What to do after finishing the Bulger List - was I done? Actually, in addition to a handful of Smoots, I have a long list of adventures I'd like to do, most notably some high alpine traverses and trips to the pickets. For July I had planned to do the Isolation Traverse with my son and 1-2 others. Unfortunately partners had to bail shortly before the trip leaving just two of us. My son has limited glacier experience and I felt a little anxious about a remote alpine traverse with just us two. So we opted for a less committing trip up to the beautiful Colonial Basin area where we could do some peak bagging. We figured we would probably have some company too, which ups the safety factor a bit - and we were right. I had been to this area once before as part of a two-day trip up Snowfield Peak back when I was in the Mountaineers and just starting to climb. That trip went less than ideal - and although we had summited I really wanted to return and have a better experience. As you'll see, I made a great choice! So, we headed up to Marblemount early-ish on a Friday, got a permit and drove to the Pyramid Lake TH where we ran into a familiar face from a separate party of three. We headed up in the warming temps and grunted out 6000' gain in just under 9.5 hours, all the way to the col below Neve Peak and overlooking the Neve glacier. The approach between Pyramid Lake and the bumps below Pyramid Peak were as heinous as I remembered, however with many other unsavory approaches under my belt in the intervening 15+ years, it seemed more run of the mill heinous, than extreme (ahem Silver Creek ahem). Unfortunately, the party we had met at the parking turnout hours before had beat us to the one primo spot at the col, and a second party (who had passed us) took the next optimal spot about 50-100' below on the N side. So we dug a platform in a semi-exposed area just N of the ridge. There was a nice stream of running water in the nearby rocks which made getting dinner and water much quicker. The night was colder than expected, windy and a bit miserable in a 30 degree bag. Between that and the long day before, we slept in a bit. We headed onto the Neve Glacier towards Snowfield well after sunrise. Glacier travel was straightforward with minimal crevasses. It took 3 hours from high camp at the saddle to summit. No issues with routefinding. The little class 3 step/moves above the gully seemed way more tame than when I did this climb years ago. We enjoyed the summit then headed back to camp. It took about 2+ hours. At camp we were a bit tired - more from the day before than today's efforts, and chilled a bit. It was still early and we opted to tag Neve Peak. This went way faster than expected (25 min up, 15 down, and we lounged on the summit for at least an hour, enjoying the views). We decided to go for Colonial Peak the next day, though we had done minimal route research. We had another cold and windy night, and slept in again and set off at 7:30 or so. We ended up having a long day climbing both Colonial and Paul Bunyan's stump. We (I) second guessed the obvious snow gulley and tried the direct snow slopes on the left side first. Those led to scary runout on hard snow, so we backtracked and tried to go up the ridge on the right of the snow gully by looping around to the saddle between Colonial and Neve. We dead ended on class 4 terrain before the false summit, and finally just dropped to the upper snowfield and led out with pickets across the exposed slope we had attempted earlier from below. All in all I believe it took us 6 hours up with 3 hours wasted on shenanigans. We were pretty tired and tempted to just head to camp. But there was still daylight left, so we went for Paul Bunyan's stump, continuing straight up the higher traverse above cliff bands to the saddle below Paul Bunyan's. We then went up as quickly as we could (40 min from saddle to summit), probably going farther left than we should have on the upper slopes. After enjoying the summit we descended efficiently and got back to camp before dark. We followed a better path down, especially on the upper slopes (still took a similar time to the saddle - maybe 40 min?). All in all 12:20 and 4750' elevation gain on the day. By this time (Sunday night) the other parties were gone so we moved to the nice spot at the col. The last night was much warmer and quite pleasant and we slept well. We had considered tagging Pyramid during this trip but just wanted to get home at this point. We retraced our steps from the first day, with the exception of needing to go over the rocks to get around the lake. The lake was that much more melted out along the shore! Total time down, including rest stops and refilling water: 6:53. For once we got to eat a proper dinner and drive home in daylight. Another great trip with my boy! Gear Notes: Glacier travel gear, helmets Approach Notes: Strenuous, steep, hateful.

I have a cyclocross. I use it as my street bike, and occasionally on gravel - most frequently that would be when doing the Lake Sammamish loop ride (the gravel part has been closed recently). I've taken it on the Cedar River trail all the way to Landsburg Park. Are you on Strava? that's a great app to see what people are up to for rides

Nice work! Back in May we actually intended to do both Anderson and W Anderson and even brought a small rack all the way in there for W Anderson (due to TRs we read, some of it is exposed and worth pitching out). But Anderson early season gave us enough excitement and took long enough so we settled for the single summit. W Anderson definitely is the trickier of the two- impressed you did all that with almost no snow and solo to boot!

totally agree with you! so far I have not had a bad experience with the ONP rangers. They do have a ton of visitors and still are able to manage things quite well. my only gripe is that bear cannisters are still required in some places. I love my ursack - so much easier to haul around

Of our three NPs, I have found the "customer service" to be very different in each, and the ONP to be the best of the three by far! Glad it worked out for you !

they will only issue certain backcountry permits by phone (e.g. bailey range, upper royal basin). If you leave a message they will likely call back. Good luck and have fun!

There is plenty of loose rock, but it is solid in the two most exposed spots, where it was most welcome. as for the peak-bagging, I'm well past the "experience" threshold so it is a lot more about numbers for me as well as important factors to determine when and if to go (seasonal variations depending on time of year and snowpack/glacier conditions, weather, amount of daylight, access, fires, my fitness level, availability of partners, time off work, etc).

The Olympics deliver again and again! Mystery is on my list now too

I take nothing for granted. Every day out in the mountains is a blessing!

There is also a way from Whatcom Pass where you traverse the glacier. When we did our trip to Easy Mox we met a party at Whatcom Pass that had just climbed Challenger via this approach and they said the glacier was not that bad.

7:15 cars to summit. 14:10 C2C. (18.70 miles, 5780' gain)

Trip: Mount Clark - Standard Trip Date: 08/09/2021 Trip Report: We attempted Clark back in June as part of a three day trip, which included a summit of Mount Deception and two nights at Royal Lake. After cancelling our plans this weekend (Terror Basin, with advanced permits) due to "meh" weather we opted for a cleanup trip, and allocated Monday for it, C2C. We drove up Sunday night and slept in our cars at the trailhead, setting alarms for 5:30 am. After breakfast and packing up we headed up the Upper Dungeness trail at just after 6:30. Overall we kept a decent pace and summitted Clark without issue at around 1:45, took a quick break and headed back down. The only snow we encountered was in Surprise Basin, which made for a nice break from tedious boulder hopping (the snow was continuous in the basin). The snow at the summit block back in June was totally melted out. The first part of the final block was loose and a bit unsavory class 3. The finish is a nice crack that pushes the limit of class 3 - it's quite steep but has great holds. Mount Deception looking a lot more melted out than it was in June. Glad we did this with snow coverage! View towards Clark from the tarn in upper Royal Basin: View towards upper Royal Basin from the base of Surprise Basin: Continuous snow in Surprise Basin: Traversing on the east side of Clark. This exposed section is one of two 'attention getting' parts. (great holds) Summit Stoke: 91/100 for me, 40/100 for my son (Smoots) Royal Lake as viewed on the way out: Here's to another one in the books! Prost! Gear Notes: Light crampons, approach shoes Approach Notes: Trail in excellent shape - no blowdowns. Snow free except for Surprise Basin.

after this trip he said he's done bulger hunting but i'm sure he'll forget and be back. he solo'd the gardners earlier this year

Thanks man. This list was hateful. But it gave me so much, I can not even express it. What a way to finish. I'll never forget this trip. Ever.

I went on a Friday evening once, arriving at 2:45 pm and had a permit by 3:30. It's busy in the afternoon too, unfortunately

Thanks, man! When the border is open you can get in there as a 3-day trip. 4 days can get you 2-4 summits depending on which ones and your speed/efficiency (I am old and slow). Word is the border may open soon. FWIW Spickard is the easiest, with Rahm and Custer a close second. Custer is a POS though and only worth doing to finish the bulger list.