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Everything posted by KaskadskyjKozak

  1. Trip: Sinister Peak - NW Face/W Ridge Date: 7/3/2017 Trip Report: Last year I attempted Dome and Sinister but only got Dome. I had plans to go back and bag the N Face via the Agnes Creek approach. With the snow pack and late-notice partner bailing I opted for the standard approach. And I had 4 days. The plan was to move heavy packs up to the bivy sites at 8700' on Dome in two days, then summit the N face of Sinister on day 3, move back towards the cars a bit, then finish the hike out on Day 4. We got most of the plan done except we bailed on the N face and opted for the "sure thing". My pack at the cars weighed 47 lbs on the way in and 42 on the way out. We used approach shoes for Downey Creek Trail and part of Bachelor, so carrying mountaineering boots accounted for some of the weight. The rest was food and gear. The approach took 11 hours. I really felt the heavy pack. The Bachelor Creek trail was better than I recall from last year. A lot of the deadfall has now been pounded flat and bootpath established around and over it. The old stream crossing has now been completely abandoned in favor of the "bypass" at 4000' and there has been some gardening done in there on the slide alder. There is a clear path through this section. Allthough I'd like to use flowery language here and say that we had a vegetation ass-raping or scrubbed our teeth with foliage, I can't really. It was long and time-consuming but not horrible. Perhaps I am just inured to this type of terrain? Perhaps it's the beat-down of life finally wearing me down to submission? Thank you sir, can I have another? We arrived at Cub Lake around 7 pm. It was frozen over and nobody was camping there. Most folks were camping in the flats or on the benches just past Cub Lake. So did we. There was an army of people there - it was almost like being in the Enchantments. Crazy! We got up at 5am on Sunday and hiked up to the bivy spots on Dome. It took about 7 hours with the heavy packs. The standard trail was still snowy and there was fresh stuff breaking off the waterfalls so most folks went up the bypass to Itswoot. So did we. View from Itswoot in the morning: I collapsed in my bivy for a bit waiting for the party of 8 Mountaineers on the summit to start back. My partner and I then climbed up there. The ridge was melted back plenty so we could scramble right up to the crux and quickly belay it. While on the summit clouds blew in and got worse all evening and most of the night. Sinister from our bivy spot: Looking close at the N face a crack was visible with several holes on the left and right of it. I did not like the looks of this. My partner was sure we could bypass it. After haulting 40+ lbs of shit up over two days I wanted a "sure thing" and no shenanigans so I pussed out and talked my partner into bailing on the N face and doing the standard. Big crack mid-way up the N face of Sinister: Alarms went off at 3:40 am and we were surprised by a clear sky. We were off to sinister! Sunrise! Views were glorious on the Chickamin Glacier. There were serious crevasses and seracs en route to the Dome-Sinister col but a good boot path wound around them. Right now it's a fairly easy and safe path. I'm not sure how long that will last. Once at the col we picked a way up that looked scrambly. Soon we were on a 4th class section and pitched out one 40m rope length. From there we scrambled up. My partner opted for the snow slopes on the NW face and even got some steep snice (he reported 70 degree, see 'fins' in the snow in the picture above). I stuck to rock to the right along the W ridge and scrambled class 2 and 3 to the final snowfield (very moderate). We were then on the summit: 3:15 from camp to summit. Summit shots: From the register we saw that two parties had summitted so far in 2017- both the day before. We were the third. On the way down two parties of two were headed up. WTF? Sinister is getting busy - and the Bulgers popular! Descending the W ridge of Sinister. Dome in the background: We returned to our camp from the first night and decided to stay there. I had stashed a trekking pole and approach shoes there. Separately, under a rock, I had stashed a mountain house wrapper with some garbage inside. Some asshole busy body took my garbage, shoved it in my shoes, and left a passive-agressive note, lecturing me about the pristine environment and packing out my stuff. To you, asshole, I left that garbage under a rock to keep the critters out, separate from my poles and shoes, so the critters were not attracted to them. The garbage was always meant to be packed out. And it was -along with much more. Next time mind your own fucking business and don't jump to conclusions. Gear Notes: Standard Glacier gear. 40 m rope was a bit short for our rappel. Approach Notes: Bachelor Creek
  2. [TR] Sinister Peak - NW Face/W Ridge 7/3/2017

    Nope. Life was as good as it can be there
  3. [TR] Sinister Peak - NW Face/W Ridge 7/3/2017

    Totally. It's just I made a trip there last year and got turned around. After a two day approach with a full pack this year on my second attempt I wanted a "sure thing".
  4. Paging Polish Bob

  5. [TR] Sinister Peak - NW Face/W Ridge 7/3/2017

    Last year when we went we were alone. WTF, people, stay home on your couches, eat pizza and drink beer. Leave the mountains for me!
  6. [TR] Sinister Peak - NW Face/W Ridge 7/3/2017

    Sinister: 5 or 6 on Sunday, 6 on Monday. That I know of. Dome: Hell, 30? 40? I don't know for sure
  7. [TR] Sinister Peak - NW Face/W Ridge 7/3/2017

    Yeah, that was way too many people Keep Bachelor Creek wild and brutal! Hope you had a great climb!
  8. Trip: Silver Star - Burgundy Col/Silver Star Glacier Date: 6/24/2017 Trip Report: I climbed Silver Star ten years ago as a backup plan for Rainier. I stopped short of the actual summit by about 15 feet. Now that I am pursuing Bulgers seriously I felt the need to be honest and get those final feet. I also thought I'd bring my kid on his first glacier climb (albeit pretty tame). We drove up Friday and car camped at a nearby TH. Up at 4:15 am and boots on trail at 5:30. We got to Burgundy col at 8:45, put on crampons and downclimbed. Turns out the crampons were not needed but we kept them on anyways until the summit block. My son contemplating the down climb. He rocked it! The glacier is still filled in. We followed a boot path to the saddle. It was cruiser. No postholing. We scrambled onto the rock, took of crampons and untied. We followed the left-trending ramp until just below the summit block: I solo'd to the top. My partner belayed my son around one exposed corner and I belayed him onto the summit block. We both opted to summit au cheval as standing up there seemed inadvisable. Summit shot: After spending a glorious 90 minutes up there we reluctantly headed down. At the saddle, my son expressed his feeling of accomplishment: We kept crampons off and opted to glissade the glacier unroped. The hike out from the col sucked (hot, dry), but we had ice cold beverages awaiting at the car. Congrats to my son on his 11th Bulger summit. Gear Notes: 40m rope, picket, helmet. Approach Notes: Dry until the bench at 6400', then patchy snow. Continuous snow from there to the saddle below the summit.
  9. Best metal bands

    Didn't you mean "FOAD", sack licker? Lick sack is just channeling some Phil Anselmo lyrics. Which reminds me: Pantera!
  10. Can't access Gallery

    http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/ "Access denied" ???
  11. Trip: Ruth Mountain and Icy Peak - Standard Traverse Date: 9/14/2013 Trip Report: The days are shorter and the immaculate weather of summer is deteriorating right quick. Alpine options narrow. What to do? What have I not done yet? Partners? Ruth-Icy. Fuck yeah, motherfucker. T-storms and 70% precip are forecast Sunday, but Ruth is doable on the first day, and that campsite with Shuksan's huge full-frontal nudity is hardly a consolation prize. We go for it. We march march march up the low angle trail to Hannegan Pass, treading on mounds of horse shit - sometimes fresh and almost runny. It's fucking hot out. Ruth looks good. Yeah a bit worn and used up, but still quite "doable". A mighty gash is visible, but so is a snow bridge, even from afar. From Hannegan we pass the half-dry pond, and ascend the mud gully from hell. Some of us fall, ignominiously, on our keysters. Eventually we emerge from this poop chute onto open, rocky, bone-dry slopes. It's hotter. I sweat like a whore in church, wringing a few ounces of sweat from my bandana repeatedly. We round the ridge, Baker appears like a ephemeral ghost. Ruth, Shuksan, Nooksack tower, the Price Glacier... it's like a row of Playboy Centerfolds. We ascend a dry ridge to snow, rope up and head up and climber's right in a great arcing traverse, avoiding a few cracks that are visible. Eventually we hit the Bergschrund, make a hard left and cross a mammoth snow bridge. The snow is firm, as befits the surrounding mountain porn, right up to the top, despite the heat. We are alone on the summit of Ruth. We savor the moment and drop to camp along the ridge. There's still a snowfield, a trickle of water, and glorious, glorious mountain porn. And the sunset provides an explosive, orgasmic, kaleidoscopic finish to it all. We are truly blessed. The winds are bad all night. Both outside the tent and inside. Backcountry Pantry my ass... more like Backdoor Flatulantry. But I digress... I imagine we will be in a white-out for sure come dawn, as forecast. So let it be written so let it be... But wait, no. At 5 am, it's completely clear and starry. FUCK YEAH MOTHERFUCKER!! We arise. My share of a coveted bottle of Stumptown cold brew hits the spot and starts both my motor working, and my bowls to set in motion. We avoid the shitty-gully-from-hell by staying just left of it, find the climber's trail and do the long, dry rocky traverse to the base of the glacier on Icy. En route, thanks to Stumptown, I release the Brown Hostage. We enjoy similar conditions to our previous day - fine firm snow, a few easy to avoid cracks, and easy routefinding to climber's right to end run a gaper, and find a huge snow bridge up across the schrund. We round the rocky ridge and scramble to the base of the final gully. My favorite partner MM solos up it. I drag a rope (glacier) for others and place two pieces on route to the rap sling. We are treated to perfect weather and views. No storm in sight. This. Is. Fuck-ing. Awesome. We reverse our path down, becoming progressively more tired and insistently eager for the beer in the car. We fail to beat the clock by only a few minutes with about an hour of rain, Donner und Blitzen. We headlamp a few minutes too. It's all good. Except for maybe the shweaty balls and swamp ass. Fuck yeah, motherfucker. Gear Notes: Ice Axe, Crampons. C4 #1, #4 BD stopper.
  12. [TR] Davis Peak - South Ridge 6/3/2017

    i want to bag that shit. looks fun!
  13. Best metal bands

    Blackwater Park is a great place to start
  14. Best metal bands

    you need to ditch the rubber and go raw dawg!
  15. Best metal bands

    Lamb of God Iron Maiden Mastodon Gojira
  16. Best metal bands

    The Sword are pretty fucking great!
  17. Sativa vs. Indica

    Make that shit the chronic...
  18. Turns al Year

    that is indeed awesome! Love it!
  19. Best metal bands

    Opeth Disturbed SOAD
  20. Royal Columns Closed due to collaspe of column

  21. Icy Peak summit info needed

  22. Icy Peak summit info needed

    What DPS said. I ended up roping up and leading that smoothed couloir. I placed 2 pieces. It can be solo'd - just comfort level. I had a 30 m glacier rope btw - which was plenty.
  23. Mt Hood

    If you bring a rope, just bring a 30m. If you are comfortable on the ascent, ditch it for the descent. a 30m rope is super light. BUT... what Ivan said. if you have a tool and an axe, you will feel super secure. A rope will feel completely unnecessary
  24. Wanted: Sunny dry place to visit.

    that sounds so nice!
  25. Nevertheless...