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Everything posted by Ponzini

  1. I took your suggestion Drew, always wondered what IMHO meant. Plus I found out where the fuck PDX was! See you in Spray!
  2. Nope, the chutes above Rohr Lake
  3. Here's a photo of the climbing that is typical of the NE buttress, you can see why it would be nicer in winter (ice instead of moss). Cam's skeptical look is because I just said I'd like to try one more pitch before bailing
  4. A small cairn marks where the route leaves the road to cross the creek and head towards Rexford. Some V0 problems were sent on a large boulder just below the toe of the NE ridge - bring your crash pads, lots more to do!
  5. The SFU map room had a map-sized photocopier (as of 2004, at least) and you could copy their maps onto same sized sheets for $2 each. Make a day of it! Black & white maps aren't the greatest, but it's a good deal if you're on a budget.
  6. No 2wd just yet, still easy 4x4-ing to old Slesse parking and moderate 4x4-ing up Gate Hill to the new Slesse trail and the Rexford trail. The bypass glacier is still there but is small, looks easy to go around the high side of it.
  7. Pretty wet after only one day of rain. There was a fair bit of water running down the slabby lower third of the route, but the upper portion looked nice.
  8. Nope, no neutrinos, all we saw was a rusty pin and a few tatty slings...
  9. Tried the NE buttress on Sunday, but it was wet and slippery after Saturday's rain (go figure! ) and we bailed after 2 pitches. The route looks fun but has a fair bit of moss and dirt, so I'll wait for a few days of dry weather next time. We took a few pins (thanks to Don's suggestion) and were glad to have them.
  10. I'm not sure that Blackcomb is still open, the last few years they've closed it once summer skiing is over (usually early August) and only run the Whistler gondola in August and Sept....
  11. You'd have to do the first 5km of road, which has plenty of waterbars but only a few big ones. There was a Subaru at the Statlu parking last month.... Only after the Statlu trailhead does the road turn really rough.
  12. Taken from the summit of The Woodpile (Rutledge Glacier area in BC)
  13. Just got back from a week long trip to the Adamants, we hiked in via Swan Crek to Fairy Meadows, established a high camp and climbed Austerity and Ironman (from the north) plus other smaller peaks in the Gothics. FYI, the peak between Ironman and Turret is Austerity, Adamant is to the east of Turret. Great looking routes on the south side, great job guys! Without a chopper, the Swan Creek trail (in its present condition) is about 7 hours to Fairy meadow (with 4x4), 8 hours with 2wd.
  14. Climb: Tantalus- Date of Climb: 7/20/2006 Trip Report: A group of us from the BCMC climbed Tantalus by the North Ridge after approaching from Sigurd Creek, a long but scenic approach. After talking to several people, I think that Tantalus is easier as a 3 day trip via Sigurd Creek than by Lake Lovelywater (assuming you are on foot). We were away four days, and we also were able to climb Zenith and Pelion due to the perfect weather. Icefall between Pelion and Ossa from where the trail ends Pinnicle between Pelion and Ossa - still unclimbed? Our first view of Tantalus from the shoulder of Pelion, the north ridge faces the camera Climbing the snow slopes on the west side of the North Ridge Ridge climbing Final summit and head of the Rumbling Glacier The lower Tantalus range peaks and Howe Sound. The Witch's Tooth looked harder than the Class 4 as described by Fairley... Heading back along the ridge to camp Zenith from camp, it was a nice half day hike Tantalus from Zenith Summit ridge of Pelion Tantalus from Pelion All in all, a great trip to a remote yet close area with tons of moderate routes to climb. The North Ridge deserves to be climbed more from sea level, it's far more satisfying to drive back from Whistler and look across the valley and say "I climbed that" than "I flew to within a few hours of the top of that"! Gear Notes: Glacier gear, no rock gear needed Approach Notes: Sigurd Creek trail
  15. I'm off to MEC....stay tuned.... Steve's a great climber and I'm a hack, it must be all my flailing that roughed up my boots!
  16. Mabye September, once the bugs die off...at our campsite in the basin they grew in intensity by the day
  17. Wonderful climb, guys! Thanks for the Viennese Clarke traverse info and extra thanks for the ride down the road
  18. After only about 25 days of climbing on my Cumbres, the front toe piece of the sole (the part that holds the front crampon bail in place) has totally peeled away and is hanging by a thread. The sole has also been ground away on the sides and the boots are now pretty much useless for climbing. Anyone else have this problem? The wimpiness of the sole seems terrible for a boot that was supposed to be a quality mountain boot...
  19. Climb: Grainger-South Ridge Date of Climb: 7/2/2006 Trip Report: A few pictures from a great trip to Grainger. The South Ridge is a great moderate climb and would make a good lead for people that want to gain some alpine climbing experience on a not-too-intimidating route. Hiking the Grainger Trail - Many thanks for Gerry Kollmuss for his recent work!! Cool waterfalls on the hike up to the South Ridge Great rock on the ridge Thinking about climbing Nursery too, but it was too hot! The rapping was just as good as the climbing! Back at Rancho Relaxo Many thanks to Mark and Brock for hitching a ride out. Gear Notes: Some hexes and large nuts, short (42m) rope Approach Notes: Grainger Trail
  20. We did it last year as a day trip, 11 hours return, yes it's lots of hiking but it's a great summit and an easy route for people like me who sound like they're giving birth when leading anything harder than 5.7. We used a 40m rope and a few hexes, you don't need much hardware as the climbing pitch is pretty short (about 20m). Go light on gear but remember the water! Good luck!
  21. Ponzini


    I thought the translation was "I've fallen again, can you help me with my pack?"
  22. Hi Don, you certainly took the long way out! Your description makes sense for a climb of the western peak, since from the base of our ridge an ascending traverse across some snowslopes would lead right to the S side of the main peak. That was our plan to begin with, but our ridge looked so nice we couldn't resist. The ridge between the peaks is quite serrated, might be a fun traverse but could be a bit loose.
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