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Everything posted by Ponzini

  1. Anyone done N. Face of West Lion?

    I took your suggestion Drew, always wondered what IMHO meant. Plus I found out where the fuck PDX was! See you in Spray!
  2. Anyone done N. Face of West Lion?

    What's an/the IIRC?
  3. Where is it?

    Nope, the chutes above Rohr Lake
  4. Where is it?

    Freshiez stoke!!
  5. Anyone done N. Face of West Lion?

    Here's a photo of the climbing that is typical of the NE buttress, you can see why it would be nicer in winter (ice instead of moss). Cam's skeptical look is because I just said I'd like to try one more pitch before bailing
  6. Better Access to Rexford East Side

    A small cairn marks where the route leaves the road to cross the creek and head towards Rexford. Some V0 problems were sent on a large boulder just below the toe of the NE ridge - bring your crash pads, lots more to do!
  7. End of paper Topographic maps in Canada???

    The SFU map room had a map-sized photocopier (as of 2004, at least) and you could copy their maps onto same sized sheets for $2 each. Make a day of it! Black & white maps aren't the greatest, but it's a good deal if you're on a budget.
  8. is anyone else getting really turned on

    Yup, on top of Shuksan.
  9. No 2wd just yet, still easy 4x4-ing to old Slesse parking and moderate 4x4-ing up Gate Hill to the new Slesse trail and the Rexford trail. The bypass glacier is still there but is small, looks easy to go around the high side of it.
  10. Anyone done N. Face of West Lion?

    Pretty wet after only one day of rain. There was a fair bit of water running down the slabby lower third of the route, but the upper portion looked nice.
  11. Anyone done N. Face of West Lion?

    Nope, no neutrinos, all we saw was a rusty pin and a few tatty slings...
  12. Anyone done N. Face of West Lion?

    Tried the NE buttress on Sunday, but it was wet and slippery after Saturday's rain (go figure! ) and we bailed after 2 pitches. The route looks fun but has a fair bit of moss and dirt, so I'll wait for a few days of dry weather next time. We took a few pins (thanks to Don's suggestion) and were glad to have them.
  13. I'm not sure that Blackcomb is still open, the last few years they've closed it once summer skiing is over (usually early August) and only run the Whistler gondola in August and Sept....
  14. chehalis

    You'd have to do the first 5km of road, which has plenty of waterbars but only a few big ones. There was a Subaru at the Statlu parking last month.... Only after the Statlu trailhead does the road turn really rough.
  15. Taken from the summit of The Woodpile (Rutledge Glacier area in BC)
  16. Just got back from a week long trip to the Adamants, we hiked in via Swan Crek to Fairy Meadows, established a high camp and climbed Austerity and Ironman (from the north) plus other smaller peaks in the Gothics. FYI, the peak between Ironman and Turret is Austerity, Adamant is to the east of Turret. Great looking routes on the south side, great job guys! Without a chopper, the Swan Creek trail (in its present condition) is about 7 hours to Fairy meadow (with 4x4), 8 hours with 2wd.
  17. Climb: Tantalus- Date of Climb: 7/20/2006 Trip Report: A group of us from the BCMC climbed Tantalus by the North Ridge after approaching from Sigurd Creek, a long but scenic approach. After talking to several people, I think that Tantalus is easier as a 3 day trip via Sigurd Creek than by Lake Lovelywater (assuming you are on foot). We were away four days, and we also were able to climb Zenith and Pelion due to the perfect weather. Icefall between Pelion and Ossa from where the trail ends Pinnicle between Pelion and Ossa - still unclimbed? Our first view of Tantalus from the shoulder of Pelion, the north ridge faces the camera Climbing the snow slopes on the west side of the North Ridge Ridge climbing Final summit and head of the Rumbling Glacier The lower Tantalus range peaks and Howe Sound. The Witch's Tooth looked harder than the Class 4 as described by Fairley... Heading back along the ridge to camp Zenith from camp, it was a nice half day hike Tantalus from Zenith Summit ridge of Pelion Tantalus from Pelion All in all, a great trip to a remote yet close area with tons of moderate routes to climb. The North Ridge deserves to be climbed more from sea level, it's far more satisfying to drive back from Whistler and look across the valley and say "I climbed that" than "I flew to within a few hours of the top of that"! Gear Notes: Glacier gear, no rock gear needed Approach Notes: Sigurd Creek trail
  18. After only about 25 days of climbing on my Cumbres, the front toe piece of the sole (the part that holds the front crampon bail in place) has totally peeled away and is hanging by a thread. The sole has also been ground away on the sides and the boots are now pretty much useless for climbing. Anyone else have this problem? The wimpiness of the sole seems terrible for a boot that was supposed to be a quality mountain boot...
  19. Scarpa Cumbres - Falling Apart!

    I'm off to MEC....stay tuned.... Steve's a great climber and I'm a hack, it must be all my flailing that roughed up my boots!
  20. Climb: Grainger-South Ridge Date of Climb: 7/2/2006 Trip Report: A few pictures from a great trip to Grainger. The South Ridge is a great moderate climb and would make a good lead for people that want to gain some alpine climbing experience on a not-too-intimidating route. Hiking the Grainger Trail - Many thanks for Gerry Kollmuss for his recent work!! Cool waterfalls on the hike up to the South Ridge Great rock on the ridge Thinking about climbing Nursery too, but it was too hot! The rapping was just as good as the climbing! Back at Rancho Relaxo Many thanks to Mark and Brock for hitching a ride out. Gear Notes: Some hexes and large nuts, short (42m) rope Approach Notes: Grainger Trail
  21. [TR] Grainger- South Ridge 7/2/2006

    Mabye September, once the bugs die off...at our campsite in the basin they grew in intensity by the day
  22. Wonderful climb, guys! Thanks for the Viennese Clarke traverse info and extra thanks for the ride down the road
  23. We did it last year as a day trip, 11 hours return, yes it's lots of hiking but it's a great summit and an easy route for people like me who sound like they're giving birth when leading anything harder than 5.7. We used a 40m rope and a few hexes, you don't need much hardware as the climbing pitch is pretty short (about 20m). Go light on gear but remember the water! Good luck!
  24. TelemarkTwits.com

    I thought the translation was "I've fallen again, can you help me with my pack?"
  25. Climb: Crossover - SE Ridge of East Summit Date of Climb: 5/21/2006 Trip Report: We were looking for a close yet obscure summit, and decided on Crossover. We decided to make a direct attack from Nesakwatch Creek instead of hike the lengthy Pierce Lake trail. As we forgot the camera, I stole some pictures to illustrate our route. This shot, by Greg Jones, shows the true summit of Crossover on the right and the slightly lower eastern summit on the left. We walked the road to the Slesse memorial, and then headed up the righthand side of the great slide track off the NE side of Slesse, giving the pocket glaciers a wide berth. About 30% of the bypass glacier has broken off and gone over the edge, but everything else is in place (albeit precariously!) We climbed steeply through open forest and then snow to Crossover's east ridge. From there, the main peak looked like a tottering shitpile, while the east peak seemed like a sporting climb. We decided to give the SE ridge of the east peak a try. East face of east peak of Crossover from Nesakwatch Creek, photo by Jordop: Our route was the left skyline. We climbed five 30m pitches with some simul-climbing, it was windy and hard to hear so we kept the pitches short. The climbing was mostly 4th class but with lots of small 5th class steps, and the rock was surprisingly clean and firm. The route is similar to the N Ridge of the N Nesakwatch spire, a bit shorter but harder and with more sustained climbing. There is less greenery, the crest is much sharper and the exposure is better. Plus the views across to the north side of Slesse are intense! All in all, I'd do this climb again before the N Spire, and I was surprised to not see it written up anywhere. Certainly a recommended route for a group looking for a moderade climb in a neat area, I'd say it was a PD+ (Derrick suggested AD-). The summit register had only one entry, Roy Mason and party from 1994, but there was no indication of the route they climbed, nor could we see any rap slings anywhere on the mountian. We downclimbed to the col between the east and west peak and made one short rappel to the snow (look for a blue cord), and the rains hit just as we were packing the rope. It was a fast but wet trip out to the truck. Gear Notes: Rope, slings, set of hexes