MisterMo

What do you mean by manufacturers charts? Ski or binding? I'm about your size, maybe just a fuzz lighter at 190-200. After 35 years on 215's I made a switch a few years back to 190cm K2 Shuksans. Love em in all conditions including with heavy pack loads; never going back. I'm using pretty oink-y boots with them(Denalis). They're plenty of boot for the downhill part especially with those dinky little skis - a bit high and stiff for climbing up. Next boots I'll be looking hard at something a bit less monstrous.

Feck Code stopping distance on a rope tow is (and was at the time of that accident)no more than two/thirds the distance from the stop gate to the in-sheave under most adverse conditions. This ensures that a person tripping the stop gate will not travel into any machinery before the rope stops. Code height for a rope tow is that 35 lbs of force up or down shall bring the rope to within 24" of the snow. This ensures that even a very small small child shall not be lifted into the air by the rope. This is the code section that changed after the accident, now requiring that rope height to be maintained for the length of the stopping distance past the stop gate. At the area at which I work both these items are checked daily as part of opening inspection. If either is deficient the tow is not cleared and the item is corrected before clearance is given. I was not at the Snoqualmie incident but was informed of circumstances through industry sources. It was my understanding that the Snoqualmie tow was in compliance with the codes then in effect. Mo

The Mountaineers tragedy sparked an almost immediate change in the ANSII code. The specced rope height above the snow must now be maintained in the area between the stop gate and the in sheave.

Indeed:

You bet I remember the noise. It never bothered me though; I'm looking forward to hearing it again. The Sportsmen, FYI, have been shooting on that site for one helluva long time. Good friends, neighbors, and members of the community, each and every one of them. Perhaps you'd take a minute to substantiate your assertion that "The primary users of the range re from Sultan", then take another minute to tell us why that matters.

If I recall there are giant warning signs stating you will be sucked into the ooze, Lawrence of Arabia-style, if you so much as set foot on the shore. I obey all signs & so didn't check this out. I didn't see any suspicious dimples in the ooze, either.

Cool painting. I was at the Heybrook shindig & besides good music I was impressed at all the cool stuff (mostly art) that was in the auction, mostly by local people.

Correct. Richie Doorish and Mark Weigelt did an early route on this thing way back when. I believe the original moniker was Sandy Slab, though, on accounta some early graffitist had painted or otherwise written this word upon the rock. Butt-ass Arches and Howdy Ledge received their names from similar circumstance.

Yup. That's right. I forgot until you posted it. Saints starts up a short dihedral about as far left of Angel Crack as Angel Crack is from Damnation Crack.

WSDOT does avy control as required while opening the road in the spring. I imagine they do shots in the area you describe, however I don't know if they use an avalauncher or military stuff.

Along with my usual good intentions of coming I could grab the site Friday AM or maybe Thursday PM if it falls through for Sherri.

"Jesus was a Capricorn, he ate organic foods. He believed in love and peace and never wore no shoes. Long hair, beard and sandals and a funky bunch of friends. Reckon they'd just nail him up if He come down again. 'Cos everybody's got to have somebody to look down on. Who they can feel better than at anytime they please. Someone doin' somethin' dirty, decent folks can frown on. If you can't find nobody else, then help yourself to me."

Yeah, I can, and their house is a waypoint, and at some point I might do that. At the moment it's a lot less hassle to hope whoever lost it will see a post here & come calling.

On Persis approach road, dead center so I didn't run it over. PM me and identify

It crosses the Wenatchee River in a siphon just outside of Der Town if I remember correctly. Good place to drown; bad place to float.

"What didja do there? We got high" That's not REALLY on CD is it?

Yes and no, Feck, isn't there a thing in the medical profession about see one, do one, teach one? If you've been belaying, rapelling, or self-arresting for a fairly active year, and are not visibly incompetent, aren't you maybe qualified to show others how. Whole buncha other stuff, judgement issues & such takes years to learn. On the other hand others have wisely made your same point and I, as a 16 year old first year intermediate, should probably not have been teaching others much or should at least have been monitored much more closely. My own experience with the Mounties has parallels with your own, beginning with ski tours and the Basic climbing course before I could drive. That was the only way I could get out and it worked for me; I had a number of very good trips with the club and met many cool people and a handful of lifelong friends. After two or three years I gravitated to private trips with friends & shortly thereafter left the club (to ultimately become the misanthropic wreck I am today) but I still value those beginnings. I think that some sort of group beginning like that offers people not only necessary learning but also a body of acquaintance with like-minded people with whom they may choose to move on to private trips with. As with any large grouping of people there were various regrettable souls who flock to clubs: control freaks, the needy, the inept, the obnoxious and so forth but I wouldn't damn the organization for them since those sorts can be found anywhere. Anyhow...to the original poster...If I were to want to start climbing today I'd give their program a look at least.

Somewhere way back in the dawn of time there were tests done and results published. The only ones I remember were for idealized placements (in jigs simulating horizontal cracks). For some reason the 10,000 lb failure for 1 1/2" angle sticks in my mind. Lost arrows & such were quite a bit less. Pitons have, of course, held some monstrous falls, and many an underdriven piton has popped on the way by... Relying on fixed pins for protection, particularly in vertical cracks, without testing them might not be such a hot idea...still it's probably done every day.

Great TR and photos as usual. Yer a busy boy, seemingly on track to catch John Clarke. Don't spoil it by going back to work...

Have I got the trail for you: the Old Cascade Pass trail. Takes off from the 5th or 7th switchback - not sure exactly. Pretty much straight up to the pass. One really dyno creek crossing, death assured if you slip. (There would be perhaps 20 seconds of extreme suffering first.) I recommend shorts, no bug repellent, & "Dollar Store" running shoes in order to fully appreciate it's charms. JR dragged me up it last year. Of course he expressed pure scorn for the "new" trail. Disclaimer: I was not wearing "Dollar Store" running shoes. I am not nearly hard-core enough for that. Ahem, I thought THE old Cascade Pass trail began at or near the Boston Mine and was massively shorter but I neer actually laid foot on it...just heard people describe it. Another har-de-har is the 4?, 5? mile thing to Lake Serene...about 10,000 switchbacks and stairs to go about a mile.

You could go by floatplane into the Serra stuff in BC but 3-5 days wouldn't really get it for that area. I thnk, but don't actually know, that people heli in there now anyhow...saves the walk up the Tellot.

Thanks. That's sort of what I figured. (In summer at least) You can stay high & go around the death hole thingy. We didn't know that & couldn't see well due to clouds & so did the joyous DOWN and back UP there as well. I'm pretty sure the original Firey route went down at that point to the McAllister and then ascended climbers left of the lower McAllister icefall to the Tillies Towers area. Nobody had anything nice to say about that route. Colonial to Eldorado in 3 days, BTW, is hardly lazy.

Cool Trip. Your nomencature past the "Death Hole", esp. "Backbone Glacier", has me a bit confused. Did you traverse on the Marble Creek side or the McAllister side?

What county? Some have that stuff online, as was pointed out above. On paper, Metzger's county maps used to have private ownership (of acreage) shown along with owner's name. Don't know if they're still around or not.

True with the blue Loctite, not true with the red Loctite.