Dr_Crash

C4s with popular size doubled with MaxCams might make for a very sweet rack. drC

I'm with chelle. I had the same thing happen to me (numb toe after Rainier) and thought it was frostbite, but it is overuse and nerve issues. So she might want to see a doc. Since I am Earth's #1 procrastinator, it took me only 10 months to make an appointment for the orthotics (next week), but I have been told it will solve that. Men can have high arches / pronation too drC

Aspirin, if you're not allergic to it, is IMO a better alternative than Diamox for prophylactic use. Now if someone gets sick, Diamox it is, as well as get him/her down (the only thing that makes a difference). drC

Time is 7:30pm for those who couldn't find that information on the above poster drC

Squid, sorry, my post was an answer to billcoe saying that tool is incredibly light. I've heard great things about the bashing end of the Ushba tool too. I personnally have used a BD and now use a DMM, which is ok, though not great by any means. I bash on it with a cowbell drC

I have the predecessors to the DMM Shield, the Prowire. I love these biners, but the nose is too wide for old bolt hangers or some chains. The Shield being 9 grams lighter than the Prowire, and with a thinner nose, I'll go for the Shield for my next lightweight biners. The WC Helium doesn't seem bad either; comparing strength and gate opening between the two might help decide. I wish Petzl made a lightweight keylock wiregate. By the way, your list notes the DMM Spectre as a keylock, but it is not. The Shield is. drC

Return2Sender gets my 7-yr old vote of approval. Besides that I've only seen 1/2 of Touching the Void; tough to watch a movie when you've read the book. drC

I do all my climbing on site. drC

You guys are reading too much titanium marketing. The USHBA is incredbly ohmygod light yet it is advertised at 45 g, to be compared with the BDEL at 44 g, or the DMM at 49 g. Really, can you tell the difference? (As far as beer goes, they all open the bottles, yes.) drC

Nothing wrong. They're not just guaranteed to be waterproof, which is why I mentionned it, but I haven't had any problems. drC

I've climbed in deep snow in Scarpa Freney XT (not waterproof) and was just fine. The Trango should be the same way. drC

So why is my gym partner always refusing to pull on the rope to make it easier for me? Not to mention on real rock (where are those premade holds again?). I'm gonna demand full-safety climbing from now on; 5.14s, here we come. drC

Looking forward to an opportunity to lose the nut tool and the knife in a single occasion? drC

Pourquoi ? Vous êtes français ! That was self-deprecating (my British side ). drC

Who said I didn't need all the help I could get? drC

OK, party people. I have been getting into cocktails (with friends, I promise). I am thinking about getting a blender for the summer. What should I look for? Looks like bar blenders are 1 or 2 speed, some with pulse, while home blenders have tons of speeds. I want to be able to make drinks and smoothies. Recommendations, tips to choose, etc.? Thanks! drC

Would body butter work too? drC

Thread is the best way. Dental floss or sail repair thread. There were studies from Mammut about failures of the rope over an edge if the sharpie-marked section was on the edge (same for brand-approved markers like Beal marker). Not very likely but hey, so was my last accident. drC

One of the things most people do not think about is that if rescues stop being free, then the rescuers cost may not drop. They will dramatically increase their exposure to lawsuits, as people will expect rescue (today rescue is not a promise, it's a best effort); they will need to buy insurance for that; they will need to do clear accounting of what they did (since they bill), taking their focus away from the main goal of rescuing people during an operation. Everyone's costs will go up, and rescues may actually become worse. The question of how volunteer organizations interact with a paid-for team will also be interesting... Keep them free. We pay taxes for that. And if you want to keep the worst idiots out of there, you can still sue them for reckless behavior and endangerement when this is clear (I believe that happened on Rainier once). drC

Say 'hexakosioihexekontahexaphobia' 616 times very quickly, and see what happens. drC

On glaciers I use a 37 m 8.4 mm double (Sterling, whatever was cheap on a 30% off sale in PDX last year); perfect length for up to 4 people. Beal makes a "Randonnee" rope which is cheap and good for glaciers but not for climbing. drC

There's also a true difference between being afraid of heights and afraid of falling. drC

Maggot/Minion? drC

I'd trek with it but not ski with it; for skiing, I'd rather use something with a pick but no adze: a bit less sharp things flying around. I'd ski without poles and with an ax though if I had to but at least I wouldn't use the thing for planting. drC

Depends who your kid will drop if he/she messes up My son has a Grigri and an ATC-XP and knows how to use both but he'll only belay me or his brother with the Grigri for now. It's too easy to drop someone. The Trango Cinch is a bit less $ and weight than the Grigri, but less smooth. It should be as secure though. drC