Blakej

I've been doing a simular search over the past few months and heres for the most part what it comes down too. The only place that really has active medical personell getting paid to do rescues and use their medical skills on a regular basis that I can find are military. The rest are mostly volunteer. There are very few paid search and rescue organizations in the US and they are highly competitive. Yes there is ski patrol or perhaps you could be medical staff for a sheriffs department search and rescue but that would only be when they had a rescue. It seems even the physicians who do research for high altitude at Denali or Everest are volunteers or have small grants to help cover expenses during the climbing season, or they take what little the patients they help are willing and able to offer. The suggestions I've been given from Docs who work in the field is to work ER or a simular oriented field that will allow for you to take time off for a few months a year if needs be to follow your passion. And of course first off you have to get into the loop (still working on that one).

My original question wasn't really directed specifically at pro but protection or shall we say security. Placing pro along the way was just part of the question as in is it useful. I doubt I am alone in the fact that I dont really like the idea scrambling out over some 4th class choss that if I fall I will die without some type of safty net. Everybodys advice has been very interesting and helpful. Thanks.

Is roped soloing not what I was describing or somthing completely different?

I was wondering if anyone has devoloped methods they use to give them some protection when moving through short but sketchy sections while solo. I though maybe anchoring a rope and prussiking over say a short traverse incase of a fall. Perhaps even placing pro as you go. Then atleast your minimizing your potential dammage and then reversing the process on the way back. Good Idea...Bad idea? Any other suggestions? Disclaimer to the obvious I know I shouldn't solo it if I'm not confident I can climb it but its nice to have a saftey net.

I've been searching out some areas to ski tour in the olympics this winter. Aside from the standard stuff in the guide books like townsend ellinor and the hurricaine ridge area does anyone have some good suggestions? The brothers, stone, and steel look possible but I'd like some first hand beta considering this will be my first year hitting the back country. I also thought about going out to the shelter at the base of Mt anderson and doing some decents. Has anyone skied this area?

Anyone know where I could pick up some decent AT boots for the woman. I'm checked most of the standard discount sites without much luck. Places to look or keep an eye on?

I did the little usgs map deal on the computer and came up with 15.9 mi and 9000ft of elevation for the trip. John's altimiter came up just short of 8000 ft of elevation so either way a long day but well worth it. Stone also gave some tantalizing views of some other peaks like pershings and cruiser that really provide some stoke to get out and do more before we get pounded by this winter.

Climb: south brother- Date of Climb: 8/13/2004 Trip Report: Scrambled up the south brother the other day and just thought I'd let any other idoits planning this climb to bring atleast 4litres of water minumum. Me and another guy came down severely hurting the other day. Its hot, chossy and just miserable. I would recommend a bivy above the traditional one as hight as you can get with access to the water and leave before the sun is up. Views are ok but best to wait till a better season when the snow keeps the scree scrambling to a min. Approach Notes: follow cairns or climbers trail all the way to the top.

nice climb john. Havent gotten out much recently myself but that TRs motivating me.

Norman Clyde, What would be a good way to get intouch with Brownie Schoene. I need to find out the possibilitys of working as a PA specializing in Mountain Medicine, a PA role I haven't heard of yet. I'll be trying to get in to UW's program soon and local contacts would be a great resource. Thanks too everyone else for you info also.

Anyone know of someone who has made a career as a expert in mountian medicine. Such as the medical support for expeditions or treatment of mountaineering related injuries. Websites or contact info would be appreciated.

Your opinion on the from Freedom of the Hills, "axes less than 60 cm long are ice climbing tools, excellent for placements on steep slopes. However, these ice tools are no so good for self arrest. The shorter shafts offer less leverage than a longer ax, and many of the technical pick designs do not lend themselver to self arrest technique." So is the leverage based on your torso length in relation to the ax or the over all length of the ax. If the latter what is the optimum for ice axe arrest?

yes you can still drive to the marmot pass trail head.

I've got some days off during the weekdays. I dont have any glacier experiece but I've done plenty of practice setting up anchors and arresting yada yada yada. If your hard up I'd love to do a moderate route on baker or Adams just pm me.

Just post a couple days ahead of time where and when you want to go and you'll probobly get a partner.

I need a new shoe that I can wear all day and works well on both cracks and faces. Both La Sportiva Focus and Vega are significantly discounted. Suggestions/opinions?

Thanks for adding some spice to a slow day at work. Great site. Will this be an anual thing. Seems like most of the Featured climbs are recent.

No the shoes are great for bouldering or at the gym but for longer stuff it turns out they suck.

So I spent a full day climbing in my usual shoes last week taking off the shoes after every pitch and letting the dogs rest but by the end of the first day climbing in them was agony. Now I'm looking at losing both toe nails. I put some holes in the nails and drained them last night but it doesn't look like it will help much. Any suggestions on some good shoes for preventing this in the future. Somthing that probobly handles cracks well and relatively comfortable to spend time on longer multi pitch stuff. Perhaps the La Sportiva Focus or Vega both are significantly discounted now..

Hey tweezer I've got a good camera and damn how could I pass up a chance to fly over the olys and check out all those peaks. Don't know if the guide book guys would use them but it'd be fun and provide some nice future betta.

I was thinking of treking to camp muir and just watching to commotion the next day and get a feel for the mountain. Would a bivy sack be sufficient if the weather looked good or would this be a stupid rookie move?

Hey john was the the only thing that got trashed from that fall? I thought everything would be toast when I saw that sucker coming down. By they way might be hitting city of rocks around the 9th-11th on next month let me know if your interested.

Heres a question. Considering most of us are broke SOB's what order would you suggest building your rack in order to devolop aleast a minimally useful rack for cheep ie one full set of chocks, hexes numbers (somthing through somthing) some tricams(maybe?) and so on?

All I want to know is how the booze made it to day five of a tent party.

Dude you left a bottle of whoopass on the summit. I'm all over it.....