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dane - i hope you aren't as angry and quick with your custom weapons as your tongue - scary

check your pms

ask martin volken at pro ski in north bend...

i welcome pm's about "safe" spots to camp away from ranger larry

is it possible to make reservations at the campsites in icicle creek? just for a normal site - not the group mountie loving sites...thanks

i would pick up the small little "booklet" publication that the american alpine club puts out...i think it is called "altitude sickness" by dr hackett? that has some good info...some folks hit a "wall" at about 10k and cant handle altitude at all (rare, but possible)...my suggestion is to keep experimenting...there is no magic cure all for you body producing more red blood cells (which is what you need to process more oxygen at lower pressures (ie altitude)

water and descent! i am a fan of dex if you know how to use it...

i bet daler's wife would be interested...

thanks - i'll take a look at it this weekend - easy enough to replace...

in your opinion - does this route see enough traffic to warrant replacing it? are you asking that both bolts be replaced or just that first one? is there a decent anchor up top to replace the bolt on rappel...

yeah - of course it is realistic...and it does matter

straightforward route - you can descend the route as described above or walk down the standard route on the other side. there are two variations - a left and right exit at the top. the right can be technically a bit more challenging - but the left can have a steeper cornice built up some years - six and one half dozen. if you are headed to the ruth - the japanese couliour is a nice jaunt - but dont count on many other routes like it or in its grade there. it is a fun 'romp' up a peak there - it gives a great vantage for looking at approach routes for the tooth

thanks everyone! after seeing the other docs i have decided to wait two months and see how the rehab progresses - the docs want to see how my climbing goes and then make a decision - sounds good to me. thanks again for providing a great community

thanks for the info everyone! please keep it coming! m layton - just curious if you are involved in the medical community? like i said, i will be seeing two more docs this week - but any experiences from other climbers would be great - i am definitely torn (no pun intended) between surgery or no surgery...

tore it during pt - one of the bicep heads did detach (with the resulting weird bulge now at the bottom of my arm by my elbow. had an mri done and am still waiting for the results - saw one surgeon so far, he suggested pt and time and i am going to two more docs next week - the docs thus far don't seem to understand climbing (thus the search for other climbers who have experienced this)

I am looking for information from anyone who has experienced a torn biecp - did you have surgery? pt? rest? decreased strength? thanks - trying to decide on surgery soon.

thanks for descent update - the larger cairns will make it easier and faster. if you want another longer moderate route after 'ride the lightning' - the 'gansta rap' looks like a fast and enjoyable route to the top - still sporting though! enjoy.

bring yer helmet - lots of spontaneous rock fall! definitely adventure climbing - but fun! i have been on ride the lightning and shock and awe - both are sporting, but the protection is there when you need it. the descent can be hard to find - the raps are not safe from more spontaneous rock fall though.

Would the moderator please keep spray out of this posting. Thanks. Just seems innapropriate.

daler - except that the jug is the same the whole way - ie. with poor form and overgripping you get pumped pretty fast

alpinfox is right about schoeller up high...i use shoeller up there and an ultralight weight shell jacket and pants for down low. i would definietly make sure your down layers are wind proof - that will be key for summit day. denali is not the rockies or the stuart range. you may get away with soft shells most of the time -but when it counts you'll need good shell gear.

hotline and mars are in - hotline felt like solid 5 to me - mars felt 3+ - but to bump and bring the topic back up: mazama anyone? what about fun rock options and tr's for newbies?

Anyone know what current conditions are like? I want to take some newbies out there as well - any ideas? Are there formations on or near Fun Rock?

That's it - you hit on the pros and cons. Instant anchor in the right conditions - add a screw and it is super solid. Major drawback on meandering routes - those tethers are always in the way, stepping on them etc. Overall I think they worked well with old style tools and lockdown leashes on moderate terrain - not such a good idea on more modern routes.

dru - totally unbelievable! where did you find that?