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Chad_A

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Everything posted by Chad_A

  1. If the ice is in, SLC isn't that bad (for the price of the tickets...especially if you know someone who can put you up). Santaquin and Provo Canyons can probably keep you more than busy with WI3 and 4, for the length of time that you have. My pal lives there, and ice climbs frequently. If you need info, I can call him and see what the local conditions are like.
  2. Nice pic Where's Paul Lake at? Sounds familiar.
  3. Ah, yes. Fancy doing the North Mowich Icefall, or the Coleman Headwall in late season with that, eh?
  4. Nice, but...I'd assume that's a bit out of my price range.
  5. Not sure what you're trying to express on that one. What I'm getting at is, for my budget, I have to make the same set of tools work for a steep icefall route on a volcano, and for climbing WI4, as well.
  6. Because I can't afford to replace my existing Axars, and what's more, if I can only have one set of tools for now, I need something that plunges well in the alpine, where my main interest lies. So, I have to make them somewhat liveable for WI climbing that I *occasionally* do, and the freelock leashes that are on them right now just aren't as user friendly for that.
  7. Good for rock routes, bad for snow and ice routes And really bad for our water supply (yikes!)
  8. Who likes what? I was looking at the Androids; looks like the bolt-on version will work with my Axars, since they have a hole in the appropriate place, with a black plug in it. I fidgeted with the Charlet version in the shop, but it seems a bit trickier, and I can only assume moreso once I have a set of warm gloves on. Looking for input. Disclaimer: sorry if I have the name wrong for the Charlet version. I think they're referred to as the Clipper, but could be wrong.
  9. Wimpy climber-type here... Lack of body weight hasn't bothered me any. Like anyone else, you learn what your body can do, then gauge how to treat it. Long haul... go light. Short haul and willing to suffer a bit... pile on the weight. I've always thought pack weight, up to a point, is just a mental issue. I'm pushing 145lbs soaking wet and have had guys at 200lbs heft my pack after a long haul and their eyes bug out. To them, it was heavy. For me, it was fine. Go figure. (No chestbeating... just trying to point out that like most things in climbing, a LOT of it is just in your head.) As far as snowshoes go, the lighter the better! Same footprint/area as everyone else, but less weight equals less floundering for me! And if you're with a sympathetic bunch, us lightweights can always use the "but I'm already carrying 30% of my body weight" excuse to offload group gear to the other brutes in the party. Personally... I've never done this - or should I say - been sucessful at doing this. -kurt True, true. I'm 6 feet, and 145 lbs. If I have a 45-50 lb. pack, I can keep up with the others...then again, if my share of the group gear is the rope, which inevitably ends up on upper half of the pack (under the lid), I certainly seem to tip over easier than the other heavier guys. Just an observation.
  10. Thanks for that link, shred. I've begun the wading. So much information...might have to get some TG IPA and get down to business!
  11. Thank you all for chiming in, and for the info. It's good news to hear that I just need to buy a program with the codecs to have the CD ROM/burner work with DVDs. Although it's daunting to hear about the editing, and the use of differing programs to achieve the project, I'm pretty sure that, by Christmas next year, I'd be able to figure it out. I guess the only issue that remains is the GB of available HD space. I don't know what I have here; might have to look into that one. Also, what good sources does one look to, when looking for the codec program, and the DVD editing software? Online, or would a place like Fry's that I see advertised all over the place be okay?
  12. I've seen some awesome homemade Quicktime and Windows movies on the web; most have some nice soundtracks involved. As the year goes by (and maybe for some past climbing trips that I've done) I thought it might be nice to make some DVDs to give away at the holidays to friends and family. Maybe put a few big movie files on one DVD; mostly climbing, but one of mountain biking, hiking, etc...and I'm sure that the Muppets Show theme would be great for my first ski outing. (I plan on taking up skiing, if we ever get some snow.) If anyone has made one of these, or knows of an easy-to-use DVD program, let me know. I'll have to purchase an actual DVD burner (only have a regular CD burner for now), so I know that's an issue. I'm an average PC user; so far, I've been able to figure out your average-joe's issues. Thanks for insightful replies in advance. Edit: By this, I mean taking movies from my digital camera, and adding a soundtrack, OR, taking jpegs and making slideshows, with a soundtrack added, and then putting them on a DVD (I'd like to do both).
  13. Can't believe no one's responded to this yet, Dan. Maybe I'll have to come up with a "work injury" so I can take a month off from work this spring. What does it take to get a medical leave of absence r/t insanity, these days? Maybe I can get that due to "cabin fever" with all this crappy weather these days...
  14. Man, that guy takes a lot of shite.
  15. Anywhere in Portland? I imagine that Dave's cobble shop in Seattle does it, but I could be wrong. I need to have the heel of my climbing boots stretched to fit a bit better (and cause less pain!)
  16. Thanks for the info, all. The weather for the next two days sucks everywhere (the days I have off to escape...) Looks like Stewart and I might brave the elements, and see if anything is in around Lake Angeles in the Olympics, in his neck of the woods.
  17. Well, after some research, this is what I have. I visited a podiatrist a year ago, and he noted that I had spurs on the back of my heelbones a year ago; he didn't mention a particular name for them, but said that it's a difficult thing to have removed (read: achilles tendon detached, the bone spur sawed off, and the achilles tendon reattached), followed by up to 6 months of difficult physical therapy. So, I've ruled that out. I'm going to try light doses of aspirin to help out (can't do Ibu/Aleve, due to nasty reactions I have to it), and I'm going to try to ice them at least semi-religiously to help with the inflammation. I was wondering if anyone else has or had this problem, and what they did about it. Also, I was thinking of finding someone to stretch my climbing boots away from the affected area, to decrease the inflammation, and prevent further damage. If anyone has some good input on any of this, speak up.
  18. Sounds great! Ama Dablam...
  19. I'll be damned, always wanted to do that one. Wonder what the avy danger is there...hmmm.
  20. Looking to possibly do some car camping, and ice climbing in Washington this week; need info on Leavenworth, or other areas. Please advise. Thanks!
  21. I keep a spray-can of penetrating oil (WD40, whatever) in a box, with a bastard file, a cleaning brush, and a rag. A snow-and-ice tool cleaning kit, if you will... Whenever I see rust after a trip (usually, if I'm descending a route on a sunny day, I have them off and on the back of the pack long enough for the sun to dry them out, so they don't rust, but not always) I'll saturate the rag with the oil, and then wipe them down. Problem solved- rust gone.
  22. Yeah, sure did...wish you could've been there, Dan. Now that I'm back to work, and walking on flat concrete here in town, I want to do it again...I think I'm starting to have alpine DTs already
  23. Thanks to everyone for the responses. Kurt, Seth, Jeff, and Justin, hope you had a great holiday season...I thought we were going to miss out on ours. Or, at least spend it unplanned with each other on the road (at least we would've had a stellar view )
  24. I was at Climb Max here in Portland last week; I could swear I saw them there. Could be wrong, though.
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