John Frieh

I'm not fat

Corn tortillas total carbs: 15g/serving Flour tortillas total carbs: 30g/serving

Flour is carbs. Carbs is sugar. Sugar is crack.

So as someone pointed out earlier you can go leashless on any pair of tools. I'm guessing when you say leashless you mean a double handle design (right?)... If you are planning on any alpine in the future and since you are only getting one set I would recommend something that doesn't have the double handle design but does have at least a fang... if it has an upper position (BD calls it the strike) even better. Tools would work for this include: BD Cobra, Viper Petzl Quark, Aztar Grivel Alp Wing, Light Wing I'm likely forgetting a few but you get the idea. If you want the double handle design and dont want to pound pins I think the nomic swings best of all the double handle tools on the market. The BD reactor swings "more naturally" that the BD fusion but if you spend a lot of time on your tools you will learn to swing whatever you purchase. The quark ergo swings better than the fusion but not as good as the reactor IMO. Again... time on your tools will fix that. And FYI the new cobra is much much lighter than the old cobra. It is actually almost identical weight to the quark. And speaking of weights the flat grivel tools (monster, x monster, etc) are some of the heaviest tools on the market. I would say make yourself a list of tools/weights and compare them. I will likely be in Bozeman this month before the fest so if you want to demo nomics quarks fusions reactors cobras and maybe vipers get a hold of me (PM me your info).

Lub: are you planning on just one set of tools or more? If one: do you plan on pounding pins?

Well said Bill. True words to live by. Perhaps a pdx pub club this week or next?

My favorite "Jim" story: I was at smith (last fall I believe) and bumped into Jim and his partner... we were shooting the shit when some kid strolled up and was sizing up a route behind us... the kid interrupted us and asked if any of us had done it before. Jim looked at him with a grin and a twinkle in his eye (if you know Jim you know the one I'm talking about) and said "Actually... I put it up" and strolled off. I checked the guidebook that evening and sure enough FA: Jim Anglin. I still laugh every time I think it about it.

You'll be missed Jim. RIP. My thoughts and prayers for the family.

Weight vest

Yes... anything will work but OSB is cheap. Just a heads up but adding the backing to holds will likely require you get some longer T nuts for some of your holds... might want to grab a box @ the hard wear store when you pick up the OSB unless you already have a bunch of longer length

For what you're looking at I think you'd be a little happier with a pair of either the BD sabertooth, Petzl Vasak or Grivel G12 crampon. All three will do everything fairly well and if you get more into waterfall ice/mixed you can always get a second pair that are a little more specialized for steep stuff. I think I saw a pair of used sabertooth in the yard sale.

I'm so wet right now. Yeah... they said that would happen in Health Class.

SUPERBAD! Yeah chicks go nuts for that... the male camel toe. Yea yea! The camel tail. Its like a three thing... its like ball, dick, ball. It's like a division sign... I just wish you would take those off. :lmao:

BD Stigma (2650 g/174 cm) Atomic Free Dream (2700 g/178 cm)

Are you trying to graduate or slack off/flunk out? I'd say go the best school you can get your ass into! If it turns out there is climbing to be had nearby that's great but not climbing for three/four years is a small small sacrifice to make considering how much climbing you will do once you get out.

with so much good music out there its hard to narrow it down... I tend to just listen to what ever I am in the mood for or stoked on at the moment... a few staples for me though: motorcycle diaries movie soundtrack gorecki's 3rd cash live @ san quentin (the complete recording) mos def black on both sides blackalicious nia long hauls are also a great time to catch up on your "reading"... books on CD/mp3 are a great idea And if your ghetto sled doesnt have a plasma yet you can always do the ac adaptar in the cig lighter + a lap top... nothing like memorizing the moves to cryo by watching higher ground over and over on the drive up

???

For alpine climbing you're set... no need to travel. Since you're looking to burn some FF miles flying somewhere to climb ice could be a good idea: A few things to consider: - how are the approaches (the car part) for where you are headed? The hyalite road will eat any standard car rental... you need AWD minimum (unless you are a very very talented snow driver) and potentially some clearance depending on how much snow has fallen... both of which will bump your car rental price up. You might get lucky and know someone who lives where you are headed who has a 4x4. If you go the weekend of the ice festival you *should* be okay with a standard rental but still... it would suck to be "that guy" that get stuck and blocks everyone... - what will be in? Assuming we get a standard ice season by December Bozeman, Cody, and CAN should be good to go... Ouray would be a good choice as you dont need a monster truck rental car though the potential that the ice park isnt open yet exists... kinda depends on the season they are having. Finally it has been my experience that going the weekend of the festival you dont actually climb much ice... going the weekend before or even better the weekend after a festival is generally when the crowds are smallest... which means more ice for you! Hope this helps!

FYI last issue of performance menu had a great article on nightshades and its correlation to arthritis. PM me your email and I can email it to you (pdf)

I have an eldo and though generally it stays home I do bring it for gear overflow when I submarine 3 people into the eldo. Vestibule is required IMO if you are planning on melting snow for water in shitty weather using a liquid fuel based stove (XGK, etc)

What if you live in a construction site? :laf:

inFERNo! Nice TR girl! Did you get a good recipe for speck?