John Frieh

Nice kick off to the season team! Bonus points for that rope burn Elisif

Some more time on ice will fix that... unfortunately the closest ice I know of that you can sail to is a ways away A bunch of us are road tripping for ice in the coming weeks... shoot me an email and lets get some trips on the books!

Nice pics Nate!

Location of the car at the time it occurred?

Tonight? This weekend? Next week? Inside or outside... PM or call me: 503/758/5772 What are you waiting for? Talisman is already forming up! Taken 10/27

Hoe's up G's down!

Awesome! If you dont already have one (this means you alpinedave ) the guidebook winter dance is being offered @ 20% off for the fest... I'd say pick one up while they're on sale as you will only end up coming back after you visit the canyon.

The pro invitation only version ice breaker is Friday Nov 30th The everyone else (i.e. the one you and I can enter) ice breaker is Saturday Dec 1st. I will be in Bozeman Thursday night - Sunday night... anybody else headed over? Should be any awesome weekend and a great way to raise money to save access to Hyalite Canyon! Schedule

Is silvretta still the only option for a ski binding that accepts leather climbing boots? Not interested in carrying my ice boots or climbing in ski boots.

I'm not fat

Corn tortillas total carbs: 15g/serving Flour tortillas total carbs: 30g/serving

Flour is carbs. Carbs is sugar. Sugar is crack.

So as someone pointed out earlier you can go leashless on any pair of tools. I'm guessing when you say leashless you mean a double handle design (right?)... If you are planning on any alpine in the future and since you are only getting one set I would recommend something that doesn't have the double handle design but does have at least a fang... if it has an upper position (BD calls it the strike) even better. Tools would work for this include: BD Cobra, Viper Petzl Quark, Aztar Grivel Alp Wing, Light Wing I'm likely forgetting a few but you get the idea. If you want the double handle design and dont want to pound pins I think the nomic swings best of all the double handle tools on the market. The BD reactor swings "more naturally" that the BD fusion but if you spend a lot of time on your tools you will learn to swing whatever you purchase. The quark ergo swings better than the fusion but not as good as the reactor IMO. Again... time on your tools will fix that. And FYI the new cobra is much much lighter than the old cobra. It is actually almost identical weight to the quark. And speaking of weights the flat grivel tools (monster, x monster, etc) are some of the heaviest tools on the market. I would say make yourself a list of tools/weights and compare them. I will likely be in Bozeman this month before the fest so if you want to demo nomics quarks fusions reactors cobras and maybe vipers get a hold of me (PM me your info).

Lub: are you planning on just one set of tools or more? If one: do you plan on pounding pins?

Well said Bill. True words to live by. Perhaps a pdx pub club this week or next?

My favorite "Jim" story: I was at smith (last fall I believe) and bumped into Jim and his partner... we were shooting the shit when some kid strolled up and was sizing up a route behind us... the kid interrupted us and asked if any of us had done it before. Jim looked at him with a grin and a twinkle in his eye (if you know Jim you know the one I'm talking about) and said "Actually... I put it up" and strolled off. I checked the guidebook that evening and sure enough FA: Jim Anglin. I still laugh every time I think it about it.

You'll be missed Jim. RIP. My thoughts and prayers for the family.

Weight vest

Yes... anything will work but OSB is cheap. Just a heads up but adding the backing to holds will likely require you get some longer T nuts for some of your holds... might want to grab a box @ the hard wear store when you pick up the OSB unless you already have a bunch of longer length

For what you're looking at I think you'd be a little happier with a pair of either the BD sabertooth, Petzl Vasak or Grivel G12 crampon. All three will do everything fairly well and if you get more into waterfall ice/mixed you can always get a second pair that are a little more specialized for steep stuff. I think I saw a pair of used sabertooth in the yard sale.