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markd

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Everything posted by markd

  1. i didn't bolt any of the climbs on that wall; they are ryan lawson and thomas emde routes. i believe the pitches being referred to were later added as a direct start to the route above. ( the 5.12a )
  2. which pitch are you referring to as being 10b/c? the second pitch 'alternate' is rated 11a *i think*. the first is 10a. i'm down in yosemite or i'd look it up to be sure. in reality, neither of these are truly alternate starts, only used as such. they are independent lines that climb to the top of the formation.
  3. markd

    ?

    thanks for the link bill. two thumbs up for kelton's proud first ascent! what a sweet looking line. it's nice to see they used gear in the roof as well. you can hear jim o at the end as well.
  4. i'd love to shoot photos if someone is going to free climb it. mark cartier would be a good candidate.
  5. kevbone would know as he took me up that route my first time. bill, i would say it's highly unlikely that anyone has freed that second pitch again. why i'm not sure as there is many hard men in portland... just a lack of interest i would guess. then second pitch of psychic wound would go free as well if someone was so inclined.
  6. i'm honestly not sure what the crack is on the right, but the thin crack on the left is crazy horse. it has a crux right off the ledge then backs way off. bill, are you wondering if the pins are rusty or did you and jim o place orangish pins? i do know that eric didn't add any pins, he just used what was already there.
  7. crazy horse is the climb above jill's thrill that gets you to grassy ledges. so did you get on the second pitch to the dutchman again? eric freed that pitch in 2003 and called it 11c.
  8. interesting reaction to my comment. i did not say anywhere that it was ok to steal. i simply was trying to convey that some people actually ARE living in hardship - even if you're not.
  9. we may not be as we choose to be dirtbags and live at various climbing areas; however, families living at skull hollow probably are not so fortunate.
  10. steelhead falls is a much nicer free campground; however, i wouldn't leave your stuff there either. if a non climber stumbles upon it, of course there going to take it. that being said, i lived at skull hollow for quite some time and left my stuff there. at that time the only full-time residents were climbers though. in the end it was the blm that 'stole' my stuff as they thought it was abandoned.
  11. in the new watt's guide it's rated 5.9.
  12. is it cry baby? ( the route above cinnamon slab )
  13. 'they' have been working a new route there this summer. it is not one of the routes i've done over that way. 111: if you want more info, pm me.
  14. nice job fgw, on a great looking climb. tyler, let me know when you replace those bolts so i can safely climb it.
  15. did you read this somewhere?
  16. markd

    blownout

    it's more like 5.9
  17. markd

    blownout

    Ahhh! Coffee and Vicoden! Is "young Chris" old enough to except the liquid reward? #7 stopper is my favorite DMM stopper. Is that the green one? Sorry for making Blownout just another "clip up" Maybe Jim has a point about just using nuts and hexes! Ooops too many painkillers. Funny thing is, most painful thing right now is where I got my "tetnis" shot in my arm! Stewart PS Markd is still at my house and logged into my computer! Maybe I'll go and post a bunch over in Spray!
  18. markd

    blownout

    cobra, if you were up on dod's saturday afternoon i have some pics of you i took from the tracks, though i had no idea it was you. i also took some of mark cartier on blood, sweat and smears. two cheers for snoop!
  19. markd

    blownout

    yesterday, stewart took a 50 foot fall on blownout and broke his foot. all the gear is still on the route. if anyone does this climb and gets the gear today, please pm me as it's not booty. i have a wedding today or i would go get it right now. thanks.
  20. hemp22, i'm unsure of your route but i'm going to guess it's at wolf rock. i can't believe i'm still on the internet - i've got to drive to beacon soon. ( from good ole' bend ) no one wants to meet me out there?
  21. markd

    beacon

    i will be out at beacon solo this evening if anyone is going to be out. i'll probably be on big ledge tr soloing.
  22. i'm not sure the climb but it's on windfall wall. i'll guess fool's pleasure.
  23. thanks pink. correct dan forester.
  24. someone should go out and lead this:
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