Blake

Thread Creap: Is 4th class, 5.0, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 basically all the same? I never even see pitches listed below 5.4, and I don't think I could really tell the difference.

How did you rap off of ZigZag? IF you go over to the Snag Buttress and rap straight down (following Snag Buttress Direct) I was bouncing to create enough rope stretch to touch the ground with a 60m rope. Do you know a better way down from that area?

The smoke bluffs don't require double rope raps. I thought diedre was fun, but not as amazing as people make it out to be. Some generic slabs, and 3 fairly short pitches of solid finger/hand sized cracks. You wont need anything more than a set of nuts, and a few .75"-1.5" cams/tricams/hexes. It shouldn't take very long, and I'd also suggest starting at maybe 6pm or so. Make sure you know how to get there and how to get off the top of the Apron. A headlamp would be wise but probably not needed.

dude, it's in your email now

I'm claiming "Trask"

Agreed, a good deal of new snow about 5 days ago on the top few thousand feet.

see PMs

see PMs

My guess would be not to bring them. South of Fireweed especially, the area is fairly open and I would imagine it's been exposed to a good deal of sun on a low snowpack.

Bellingham

Check out the 6th post down on this antique thread: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/9579/page/0/fpart/3/vc/1 Dru was called out for having 1100 posts! That's ancient, now over 75 people have that many. I wonder if 5 years from now people will be looking back and recounting the past days when he had only 25K 10K milestone: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post181445 Spray King, or lazy Canuck with too much free time?

Here's the "ultimate draw" setup: 2 light wiregates, a 24" mammut 8mm runner, and 2 dental/orthodontist rubberbands. Double up the rubber bands around the ends of the draw next to the biner, so each carabiner will have one loop of the sling permanently attached. Then you can triple the slings alpine-draw style and you instantly have sport-climbing sized draws. Keep them racked as short draws, and quickly lengthen them without worrying about re-clipping any loops of webbing. In order for the stiff/sewn part of the runner not to have to bend over a carabiner, make sure that one of the biners is attached next to the black sheath. The dental rubber bands seem durable, and ridicuously cheap. Easy to pop off once you take out the carbiner. This setup would ideally use WC heliums or some other keynose carabiner, but that's a lot more $$ than on-sale superflys.

I took some friends and first-time climbers to Mt. Erie the other day, and after they played around on some of the moderate routes, I tried to impress them by doing "The Nose Direct." Who has done this since the large block broke off from the right side? The book actually suggests a necessary heel-hook to a dyno! Anyway, even though I never got the last move, it was still a fun roof. It's too bad that there aren't a few other routes>5.7 on that crag. I'm also surprised that it's not bolted, because the feature's shape is conducive to rope drag when TRed, and running the rope over the nose itself didn't seem to work.

But i bet it didn't have a belay loop! And that is the real issue that I'm sure he had with your methods.

I'll quit commenting on topics about Danny H.owitt if they are all being removed. If the guys who started cc.com are having legal issues with Dan, I can understand why they wouldn't want us bashing him on here. Anyway, can you just clarify the rule so I don't waste my time typing on a doomed thread? thanks!

Joseph, that looks a lot like a homemade version of the new CAMP XLH 130 harness which is only 4oz! Your looks more comfy though, why didn't you wear it when you led me up Young Warriors?

Can anyone tell me where these beautiful meadows are?

It seems like weather is not cooperating recently, what are you all doing to get your fix of climbing in? Do you have any tried and true areas you like to head to for times like this weekend when it looks showery, but not rainy?

Nobody Climbs with the use of that stuff, they just fall with the use of that stuff. (other than aiding)

I'm interested in getting some climbing in, Alpine if possbible, but i'm down for anything.

Gear express is selling these for $39

Another member of the RMI cattle train.

Where are the Glacier Peak Meadows?

Great Pictures and narrative. http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/trip_report.pl/mountain_id/117/trip_report_id/2030

As of May 7, conditions are pretty good on the route. Just did it today. One can push or ride their bike from the parking spot all the way to the start of the ridge climb at 4,100 feet. The ridge is essentially free of snow and ice. The north face descent is covered in snow -- pretty soft and easy to downclimb and plunge step in at present. Not very deep coverage, however, so not clear how long the descent route will stay good. Current conditions would likely be similar with less snow.