Blake

I took some friends and first-time climbers to Mt. Erie the other day, and after they played around on some of the moderate routes, I tried to impress them by doing "The Nose Direct." Who has done this since the large block broke off from the right side? The book actually suggests a necessary heel-hook to a dyno! Anyway, even though I never got the last move, it was still a fun roof. It's too bad that there aren't a few other routes>5.7 on that crag. I'm also surprised that it's not bolted, because the feature's shape is conducive to rope drag when TRed, and running the rope over the nose itself didn't seem to work.

But i bet it didn't have a belay loop! And that is the real issue that I'm sure he had with your methods.

I'll quit commenting on topics about Danny H.owitt if they are all being removed. If the guys who started cc.com are having legal issues with Dan, I can understand why they wouldn't want us bashing him on here. Anyway, can you just clarify the rule so I don't waste my time typing on a doomed thread? thanks!

Joseph, that looks a lot like a homemade version of the new CAMP XLH 130 harness which is only 4oz! Your looks more comfy though, why didn't you wear it when you led me up Young Warriors?

Can anyone tell me where these beautiful meadows are?

It seems like weather is not cooperating recently, what are you all doing to get your fix of climbing in? Do you have any tried and true areas you like to head to for times like this weekend when it looks showery, but not rainy?

Nobody Climbs with the use of that stuff, they just fall with the use of that stuff. (other than aiding)

I'm interested in getting some climbing in, Alpine if possbible, but i'm down for anything.

Another member of the RMI cattle train.

Where are the Glacier Peak Meadows?

Great Pictures and narrative. http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/trip_report.pl/mountain_id/117/trip_report_id/2030

As of May 7, conditions are pretty good on the route. Just did it today. One can push or ride their bike from the parking spot all the way to the start of the ridge climb at 4,100 feet. The ridge is essentially free of snow and ice. The north face descent is covered in snow -- pretty soft and easy to downclimb and plunge step in at present. Not very deep coverage, however, so not clear how long the descent route will stay good. Current conditions would likely be similar with less snow.

Not a chance.

Rock Empire is selling trango flex cams (previous model) for $30 each or $219 for the set of 8! http://www.rockempire.com/catalog?category=cams

Tikka

So where exactly does one draw the line between a backpacking boot and a "climbing boot"? For glaciers and hard snow/ice climbs, but not vertical ice, how important is it to have a full-shank boot compatible with step-in crampons? Does anyone find boots like the ones in questions (heavy leather backpacking boots) usefull for the standard routes on the volcanoes, or do most folks use light hiking shoes on trail, and then specific stiff-soled crampon-compatible mountaineering boots for the actual climbing? (the above coming from someone who has done all his snow/glacier climbs with heavy leather hiking boots and aluminum strap on crampons.) It seems like a bit of a grey area, but I imagine that just about any boot you buy today is still better than the stuff Beckey and Co. were using in the 1940s.

Looks like Wirlwind and I will be there as well. Keep your eyes open for too impossibly awesome guys and a big blue van.

Would that make you a Spitting-Cobra (commander)?

Every time you bring two superflies as opposed to livewires, you save enough weight for an extra packet of GU!

About, but the livewire weighs 10 more grams than the neutrino, and 16 more than the superfly. The point here is to compare the lightest carabiners available, and show why the neutrino sucks.

Lots of stuff is less spendy at MEC.. i'm betting they still cost a lot more than the Trango Superflies Scott'teryx is selling for $5.95 though.

I don't know how much media there is around the south (ie non-crater) side. This area is where the standard winter ski route is anyway.

Neutrinos aren't very good biners, compared to what else is there. Omega Pacific Dovals are bigger, same weight, less money, more usefull shape. Trango Lightweight Wiregates are cheaper, larger, and equal weight. Trango superflies are bigger, 6 grams less, and equal $$ CAMP nano-wires are the same size, and 6 grams less, and less $$ WC heliums are bigger, keylocking, 3 grams less, but more $$ DMM Shield is bigger, keylocking, 4 grams less, but more $$ DMM Spectre is bigger, fancy colors, 3 grams less, but more $$$ Moral of the story: Neutrino's aren't especially good compared to the above models, and English made carabiners are fancy, but $$$.

If you are going over FRi or anytime this weekend and need another, let me know.

If you are talking about the jetboil stoves, i've heard that the electric ignitions are suspect wit temps/altitude, so you shoudl bring a lighter anyway. The container is small, pretty limited to one-person meals. If you are doing a lot of solo stuff where you want to cook, it works well, but something like a pocket rocket and a 1liter titanium pot would be more versatile and as light or lighter.