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Blake

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Everything posted by Blake

  1. Any Else think that John Long in 'Anchors' is paranoid and thinks every setup is a death trap?
  2. Come over the pass and climb Goode, Logan, or Gunsight with me!
  3. I hope with all this traffic that someone grabbed the ball of yellow tape from beneath that branch at the stream crossing. Who's going to put up a route on that face across the gulley from Spont. Arete?
  4. Blake

    Belay Loop Issues

    Forget I ever asked this question. I just got done with 2 different 100' tyrolean traverses and some crag exploration/development on my NON-BELAY LOOPed 5oz harness, and all is good.
  5. It's Merely a Flesh Wound!
  6. yeah, i saw that map. Does anyone know if the river is wadeable during late summer at or near there?
  7. Anyone know if it is possible to cross the Suiattle river anywhere in the viciinity of Miner's Creek or upstream? Speculation about river levels in August is welcomed too. Did the PCT crossing bridge get wiped out in '03?
  8. Has anyone been up Bowan Mtn along rainbow ridge? I'd be interested to know what route was taken. I was up on point Arrow Mountain this morning as part of a rainbow-ridge traverse today. From my peak, it looked like a few hundreds yards of exposed 4th class, then about 400' of low fifth climbing to the summit. I was solo, so chose not to proceed. Beckey lists no route, and it looks like it might be 5th class from any directions. P.S. If you've been to the Rainbow creek/Bridge creek pass, Bowan is the peak which towers over you to the east.
  9. Blake

    Belay Loop Issues

    I just picked up the Camp xlh 130 harness. IT doesn't have a belay loop, but I now prefer it to the aline bod. For mountaineering and alpine rock, it rocks! I've taken it cragging a couple times, and it is equally as uncomfortable as my alpine bod, meaning not great, but not horrible. I've only fallen on toprope though, no lead falls with it yet. @ 4ounces, and the size of a baseball, it is a big weight/space savings in the pack.
  10. You could quote me on it though I've actual soloed it in the same company is a ranger, and the cascade pass ranger last summer soloed it at least once, so even "offical" folks don't oppose doing it alone. I think downclimbing the rock at the top would be the most dangerous, not the glacier.
  11. I don't like them compared to what else is out there. Neutrinos themselves are fine, but when you can buy better carabiners for less $$, or lighter/bigger carabiners for equal $$, Neutrinos don't look so hot.
  12. It'd be great if you did, and don't worry my eyes aren't really that evil looking.
  13. How did Cache Col get its name? Wasn't there somehow a non-existant stash of Jello which was promised to the group somewhere up the Agnes Creek Valley from High Bridge?
  14. See this thread: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...dbeb#Post465599
  15. There seems to be frequent and constant wonderment over the current condition of the Stehekin road. Here is the situation, and I will update as needed. All mileages noted are in road miles from the boat landing. Refer to this page for shuttle bus times: http://www.stehekinchoice.com/valley/transportation/trans_shuttle_link.htm The public shuttle currently runs to the Stehekin Valley Ranch, at the 9mile point. The best estimate for this summer is that by early/mid July, the repairs will allow the shuttle to regularly run to High Bridge (11 miles). At this point you will be able to drive up to the 13 mile point (Carwash Falls) if you talk to the shuttle driver, or are able to get a ride from a private citizen. From here, there is no chance of dirving further. If heading up valley, the "old wagon road trail", which paralells the river and the road, can take you directly to the Bridge Creek Campground in 3 miles, and walking is friendlier than on the washed-out roadbed (bikes prohibited ). One can also carry/ride a bike along the old road bed from miles 13-16, and at Bridge Creek (16miles) the road is in great condition, and can be biked with a few carries, up to Cottonwood Camp (23 miles). Popular trailheads for climbs and their mileage from the landing: Purple Pass: 0 Rainbow/Boulder Creek: 2.5 Company Creek: 5 Agnes Creek: 11 Bridge Creek: 16 Park Creek: 17 Cascade Pass:23 P.S. I'll be working in the bakery , stop and say hi. PM/Email if you need a partner.
  16. Blake

    Single/Married

    Marie... the new Snugtop.
  17. Neutrinos aren't very good biners! Omega Pacific Dovals are bigger, same weight, less money, more usefull shape. Trango Lightweight Wiregates are cheaper, larger, and equal weight. Trango superflies are bigger, 6 grams less, and equal $$ CAMP nano-wires are the same size, and 6 grams less, and less $$ WC heliums are bigger, keylocking, 3 grams less, but more $$ DMM Shield is bigger, keylocking, 4 grams less, but more $$ DMM Spectre is bigger, fancy colors, 3 grams less, but more $$$ Neutrino's aren't especially good compared to the above models, and English made carabiners are fancy, but costly. Considering weight, price, and size, there is always a better biner than a neutrino, for any use. Plus BD gear is so popular, buck the trend. P.S. Scot'teryx was recently selling superfly wiregates for under $6. give him a PM or email. http://www.questalb.com/
  18. how much is KATU paying the sherpas?
  19. Bye Tex, enjoy Red Rocks! P.S. Thanks for trashing me when I put up a TR for the Hogsback on Hood. It was the gaper initiation I needed to feel right at home.
  20. IF the second lied about not being able to clean the gear, then that is a pretty trashy thing to do. However, if nobody climbs with new climbers, there'd be more enjuries, fewer awesome new routes, and the sport would die off.
  21. By the way guys, if you really want another free cam that some noob gaper couldn't clean, check out this one: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/462414/an/0/page/0#462414
  22. I'd say that if you were following them up the crack and you saw them leave it and you cleaned it, you ought to offer it back to them. IF they tried to remove it and couldn't get it, then I guess you have the right to not offer it back, but they (and everyone else) has the right to think you are a jerk as well.
  23. Directing people onto one path as opposed to many when an area first sees traffic is IMO one of the only legitimate uses for flags. (and even that can be argued either way). I'm glad that you agree that it should be gone. By the way, a bunch of the yellow tape from the trail down to the creek was forgotten balled up beneath a branch just past the crossing. The next person to cross the creek will be my hero if they grab it. P.S. Scott, those fixed rope bits come in super handy, especially going back down. Ignore the BS that you got when you first mentioned them in the FA report.
  24. Rage Against the MAchine - "New Millenium Homes" The Fire Theft - "Heaven"
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