Blake

of course guess what happens when saturday and sunday roll around http://www.weather.com/outlook/travel/businesstraveler/tenday/USWA0194?from=search_10day

Hey Cheam Climber, have you thought about taking a course from a guiding school like American Alpine Institute in Bellingham or a similar outfit in Vnacouver? I think it might help a lot with everything from what kind of gear to bring/wear and when to climb, especially routes with high objective levels of danger.

Speaking of Dicks.... Shawn posts an opening for a climbing job on a NW climbing website and all anyone can do is complain about this? Why are you whining about the salary of a job that you are not qualified for or don't want? (especially in response to someone with no control over that salary...) If you don't want to apply for the job, don't! If you think AAI should pay their staff more, call them up and suggest that they charge more for their guiding. But just wanking off about how this job apparently wouldn't pay someone else enough money for your tastes is pretty lame. Furthermore, this sort of response just decreases the likelihood that future jobs will be posted here. This does a disservice to other climbers in the region who might be interested in this or future positions. Some of us manage to survive making *gasp* less than the "poverty-level" $15/hr W/benefits, which was advertised with this job. Shawn, thanks for posting this! It's cool to see NW climbing jobs posted on a site for NW climbers. Good luck finding someone.

I am selling a Mens Medium Columbia Ice Axe Soft Shell Jacket. http://www.backcountry.com/store/COL0923/Columbia-Ice-Ax-Soft-Shell-Jacket-Mens.html?CMP_ID=SH_FRO001&CMP_SKU=COL0923&mv_pc=r126 This is Brand new, with tags attached, and costs $150 I'm selling it brand new for $60! Waterproof/sealed zippers, interior mesh pockets, microfleece lining, Powerstretch cuffs, and draw cord at the neck. It is the dark red "gypsy" color. [/url]

Word. I tried to link that with the first pitch and got within 5 feet of the top of the corner before my arms died then took a 20-30 foot fall, and several shorter falls after that. I let Blake take the chimney, which was a solid choice. I'd say 10a or b but very sustained. Fun stuff though. .10b is probably about right, but that flaring squeeze chimney is probably 5.9+ and hence a lot more difficult.

Why is there an inherent assumption that this moves means less quality? In both cases the jackets were made using state-of-the-art computerized sewing equipment by Asian-born sewers, but in this case the asian-born sewers still live in Asia. It's the same as Rock Empire or Trango cams being made by climbers in factories in Europe or Korea, just because they are not American/Canadian climbers doesn't mean that they aren't skilled at what they do. If you want to order a waterproof shell from a small Canadian company that's more breathable than any of the Arcteryx Gore Tex ones, there's a company in Calgary with your name on it. www.integraldesigns.com

Nice Pictures Darin... its comforting to know that I'm not the only one daydreaming about summer climbing. For all the Rebel Yell gurus: Has anyone else done the left-hand variation? I know we couldn't have been the first, but I haven't read or heard reference to it anywhere... You get a great corner fingertip lieback, a well-protected squeeze chimney, and then huge holds as you cut your feet loose and swing out for a hand traverse.

Headwall pitch/s on SE Buttress of Cathedral peak. I should have linked them up for the for full-value. Not an action shot, but you can get the general feel: P2 of Fine Jade in the Castle Valley

sent and email asking some questions...

Many of the smaller climbing shops with more experienced staff stock these as well. For example: American Alpine Institute, Backcountry Essentials, Feathered Friends, Pro Mountain Sports, Oregon Mountain Community... Boot waterproofing is inherently difficult because kicking steps in crusty, abrasive snow will quickly wear off a waxy surface coating (such as NikWax) or any surface DWR. The McNett/Revivex gel penetrates and disappears down into the material instead of just coating the surface.

Nikwax IS quite pricey. It's also much less concentrated than the formula developed by Gore Tex which is sold as Revivex by McNett. Nikwax lets you wash ~5 jackets for $10 Revivex lets you wash ~21 jackets for $7-8 Nikwax is produced in England, shipped across the Atlantic, trucked to Seattle, then re-distributed back across the country. Because it's so diluted, this is mostly a huge transport of British H2O. Woolite is mostly coconut oil, and not good for DWR coatings or gore-tex membranes.

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/agujadesmochada/ David Trippett (AviTripp) just headed down there last week, so maybe with some good weather we'll see more PNW-Patagonia action.

we could review the past threads of similar nature and see. I think some folks climbed their goals...

Heinrich, I think we spoke briefly after Wayne's pictures a few months ago. Anyways, I think it's great that you guys are putting all these things on, thanks very much for the organization and hosting! Anyone from the North want to carpool? too Oh Six 779-75two6

Maybe you're thinking of Golden Horn? http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=7708&si=golden%20horn

Someone told me a person biked down the walk-off descent on the apron! (without a rope)

Stellar Eclipse and the Flying Buttress on Redoubt.

http://www.cafepress.com/buy/dean+delicate/-/pv_design_details/pg_1/id_16651936/opt_/fpt_/c_666/

Has anyone climbed anything enjoyable on Tower mountain? Particularly any experience on the Doorish-Cudkowicz?

My paragliding buddy put one on his helmet by simply sticking a small bolt from the inside-out through one of the vent holes, and then screwing the bottom of the camera (in the tripod/mounting hole)onto this.

I'm not sure on the exact spot, but looks like somewhere in the area. 1:47 into the video seems to show a clip of Fred B. that's of the same film quality as the bolt part.

The Time "Person of the Year" is not an honor because of good works or noble deeds, its a subjective evaluation of being "newsworthy" (and what will sell magazines). It's not an award of honor like a Nobel Prize.

Here's some more Info

It's a shell, like your goretex piece. It contains no insulation, but is 100% waterproof and windproof. The material is "slicker" than traditional nylon-gore laminate shells, and feels much like a more durable version of sil-nylon. I think this makes it much less prone to snagging on brambles while bushwacking than most shells. The material (eVent) is so breathable and light that Gore Tex will no longer "officially certify" companies that use it, because it blows their stuff out of the water. That's why you don't see Arctery'x, Mtn Hardware, etc using this stuff, they don't want to lose their Gore certification. The "Thru-hiker" model is longer in the torso, while the "Rain Jacket" is more of a normal cut and meant to work over a climbing harness. If you are borderline, order one-size up.

It's amazing how many outdoors/climbing companies do military contracts. Don't like earmarks and porkbarrel pet projects? Neither does this guy: JBoLgxP1Lgw