lancegranite

Take any climb from list A Now, take any climb from list B Skake violently. let settle.

I warp out on this stuff. Mix and Match any of these climbs.... Pine Creek: Dark Shadows.......Birdlands Cat in theHat........Crabby Appleton Community Pillar.....Mescalito reg. route Chocolate Flakes.....Edge of the Sun Juniper Canyon: Ginger Cracks....Olive oil Black Dagger....Cat Scrach Fever Crimson Chrysalis....Cloud Tower Rainbow wall.... Brown Recluse Cloud Tower.....Rainbow wall orig. Route Oak Creek: Solar Slab......Beulah's book Black Orpheus....Chicken Lips Strawberry Sweat....The Friar Resolution Arete....Levitation 29 Black Velvet: Froglands....Any other climb in the canyon Have fun.

I used a 7.5 mil. to rap into the upper painted bowl. When you top out run to the NE and a ramp will take you down,down to a series of rap anchors. From there, run down the painted bowl to the wash. Savy teams can escape down over the Black Arch wall and run over to the base of Black Orpheus for a second lap to the top.

The shortest distance between two points is a straight line. When you top out on CL you are on top of Rainbow mountain. You have a lot of options. go around the BACK of Rainbow mtn. Hike down and rap your way to the top of the Gunsight notch. Rap and hike to the base of BD and enjoy.

Solar Slab...2:56 car to car Olive oil...45 min. Dan M. climbed Epi in 4 hours car to car

Word.

Funny, I know exactly what you mean about the dog.

Nice climbing tex!, Next trip try my Rainbow mtn. hook up: Solar Slab to Chicken lips then run over to Black Dagger. ( 8 pitches, 10 hours CTC) you still got go-go? fire off Olive oil or Cloud tower! Another good link up is Crimson or Ginger cracks to Olive oil.

Tuson has many fine areas and the most cactus you have ever seen. The stronghold is the quietest place I have climbed at... No jets, cars, people. Just you and the ghosts. Beckey and I climbed there one year. I think we saw three people the whole time.

Happy New Year!

The canyons are covered with snow right now. Mt. Wilson has a bold coating of snow and ice. Me? I'm going ice climbing at Charleston for the new year.

Spring for the hotel/rental car and be here in 3 hours. Bring your ice tools, as it is bitter cold in the desert right now. I swear I saw an huge streak of ice to the left of Resolution Arete today!

The stuck knot is a art! The unstuck knot is science. To know both is handy...

Finally! Weary Las Vegans recieved unexpected christmas gift this year,19 inches of new snow. This was really nice of the old man, as we had thought winter might have been cancelled.

Dad, Can I have my own Las Vegas Forum? I promise to watch it and feed it every day...

Way to get subalpine extreme! Excellent training...

We used to drive up to the summit of Green mountain in high school...did you find any of our empty beer cans? PS, Nice picture!

"Yes,Yes!" they cried,"tell us again about Middle Earth..."

Baker lies completely on the west slopes of the state. Cold air from the east usually keeps things a little more cold. Check the weather at the top of chair 2 at Mission ridge some time...bruahhdbd!(cold noise) Crystal is the new Hyak.

. How easy is it to hang on rappel and sort out the anchor? With a system like this, I get to the next lower anchor, clip, clip- off rappel! What makes this even faster is to leave a second biner on the leg with the ATC now you have three choices for lengths when you reach the lower station. I think it's pretty simple when you think about it... you aready have to build anchors,you never unclip from this until I hit the dirt. Look, I rap the regular way too, this is just a variation.

Exactly! Correct on both points. Depending how you tie the cordelette, you will have legs of different lengths. Use the differences in length to your advantage. I use the longest leg for the Bachman, as the wraps usually take up the slack. The Primary leg (ATC) is the middle length. The Backup leg is the shortest, because you chain the backup biner into the ATC's biner. I call it a back up but really it is your first and last connection to the belay. This setup works great for climbs that have some what straightforward bolted belays. ( I tend to think of Prince of Darkness or Moonlight Buttress) Climbs where you do not have to adjust the lengths all the time.

Erik not post all is truth of deal, is solo race to sum mit. How do say?... wiener talk all!

Here is a method to use a cordelette to protect a multi pitch rappel. Leg 2 is the ATC leg. Leg 1 is the ATC back up. Leg 3 is the prussik backup. Has anybody ever used this system?

True, this is not the best technique to use with skinny ropes. Prussiks are important. One way to increase friction is to reeve the ropes. Clip another locker into the master point,so that it hangs below the loaded ATC. Then clip a locker into your belay loop. Take the brake end of the rope and run it thru the locker on your Harness, UP thru the locker on the master point. The ropes should now be hanging as they normally do. The friction caused by this will ease the sting in free hanging or heavy rappels. In my work as a rigger , we often reeve to lower heavy stuff. The beauty in this, is that the system is flexable. ROUGH SKETCH OF UNREEVED SYSTEM

Another simul technique: I have used this for assisted rappel... Take your cordelette and tie it into a two point configuration. Tie one leg really long,one short. Now clip the ATC into the master point. Each climber clips into one of the legs. Both people descend at the same time, using a common ATC. The stronger partner takes the long leg, as she will control the ropes and reach the anchors first. She builds the anchor and clips in, then, lowers her partner to the anchors. The use of prussiks to back up the system is a must. If your partner is injured, make the legs a little more even, as the strong partner may have to stablize the injured mid rappel. This also works well with a haulbag, a bucket of holds, or tool bag for rap bolting.