lancegranite

Tuson has many fine areas and the most cactus you have ever seen. The stronghold is the quietest place I have climbed at... No jets, cars, people. Just you and the ghosts. Beckey and I climbed there one year. I think we saw three people the whole time.

Happy New Year!

The canyons are covered with snow right now. Mt. Wilson has a bold coating of snow and ice. Me? I'm going ice climbing at Charleston for the new year.

Spring for the hotel/rental car and be here in 3 hours. Bring your ice tools, as it is bitter cold in the desert right now. I swear I saw an huge streak of ice to the left of Resolution Arete today!

The stuck knot is a art! The unstuck knot is science. To know both is handy...

Finally! Weary Las Vegans recieved unexpected christmas gift this year,19 inches of new snow. This was really nice of the old man, as we had thought winter might have been cancelled.

Dad, Can I have my own Las Vegas Forum? I promise to watch it and feed it every day...

Way to get subalpine extreme! Excellent training...

We used to drive up to the summit of Green mountain in high school...did you find any of our empty beer cans? PS, Nice picture!

"Yes,Yes!" they cried,"tell us again about Middle Earth..."

Baker lies completely on the west slopes of the state. Cold air from the east usually keeps things a little more cold. Check the weather at the top of chair 2 at Mission ridge some time...bruahhdbd!(cold noise) Crystal is the new Hyak.

. How easy is it to hang on rappel and sort out the anchor? With a system like this, I get to the next lower anchor, clip, clip- off rappel! What makes this even faster is to leave a second biner on the leg with the ATC now you have three choices for lengths when you reach the lower station. I think it's pretty simple when you think about it... you aready have to build anchors,you never unclip from this until I hit the dirt. Look, I rap the regular way too, this is just a variation.

Exactly! Correct on both points. Depending how you tie the cordelette, you will have legs of different lengths. Use the differences in length to your advantage. I use the longest leg for the Bachman, as the wraps usually take up the slack. The Primary leg (ATC) is the middle length. The Backup leg is the shortest, because you chain the backup biner into the ATC's biner. I call it a back up but really it is your first and last connection to the belay. This setup works great for climbs that have some what straightforward bolted belays. ( I tend to think of Prince of Darkness or Moonlight Buttress) Climbs where you do not have to adjust the lengths all the time.

Erik not post all is truth of deal, is solo race to sum mit. How do say?... wiener talk all!

Here is a method to use a cordelette to protect a multi pitch rappel. Leg 2 is the ATC leg. Leg 1 is the ATC back up. Leg 3 is the prussik backup. Has anybody ever used this system?

True, this is not the best technique to use with skinny ropes. Prussiks are important. One way to increase friction is to reeve the ropes. Clip another locker into the master point,so that it hangs below the loaded ATC. Then clip a locker into your belay loop. Take the brake end of the rope and run it thru the locker on your Harness, UP thru the locker on the master point. The ropes should now be hanging as they normally do. The friction caused by this will ease the sting in free hanging or heavy rappels. In my work as a rigger , we often reeve to lower heavy stuff. The beauty in this, is that the system is flexable. ROUGH SKETCH OF UNREEVED SYSTEM

Another simul technique: I have used this for assisted rappel... Take your cordelette and tie it into a two point configuration. Tie one leg really long,one short. Now clip the ATC into the master point. Each climber clips into one of the legs. Both people descend at the same time, using a common ATC. The stronger partner takes the long leg, as she will control the ropes and reach the anchors first. She builds the anchor and clips in, then, lowers her partner to the anchors. The use of prussiks to back up the system is a must. If your partner is injured, make the legs a little more even, as the strong partner may have to stablize the injured mid rappel. This also works well with a haulbag, a bucket of holds, or tool bag for rap bolting.

Dude, stay away from my wife...

Dude, stay away from my wife...

Stevens pass local Steve Franke invented the snow skate ...God, I don't remember how many years back. People have been snow skating for a long time. Check the Lib Tech web site for info.

I think I saw a film about that fella Warren. Bad ass! The scene where he is under the boulder is out of control!

"fuck stick"

Let the devil's music scrach that spot on your back that you can't reach...

Or you can just work union! Good wages, easy work, Flexible hours... If you must trade hours of your life for Americian dollars, Make sure it's something that you like. I free soloed Solar Slab ON THE CLOCK.

Galacitc is good. You will LISTEN now. These guys played The Whistling Post in Skykomish back in 1996. The whole town came out to see them burn down the only good bar in the Skykomish Valley.