curtveld

If anyone is interested, here is the latest from MountainProject: "Cochise Dome and the surrounding 1/4 mile including Rockfellow Dome, is closed from March 1 - June 30 for nesting peregrine falcons." Sounds like the closure dates vary from year to year. But as Chuck says, plenty of stuff on the west side is unaffected.

Good info guys. Sounds like March would give LOTS of options, but I'm wondering what late January would offer (besides cheaper plane tix). We'd sure like to get in a long climb or two in the Stronghold. Is that unrealistic?

Looking to head down for a week of trad and backcountry cragging – Dragoons, Babo, Mt Lemmon. Looking at either late January or March. What are the chances of good climbing weather during those times? Don't mind flexing among options and/or wearing fleece & hats, so long as we find some dry sunny rock.

Yup, and also rough on the hands! As Crillz suggested, bring tape for the hand cracks. The face climbing is amazing, but will wear through your finger tips in 4-5 days of steady cranking. If you can, build up some calluses before you go down. And if not, be ready to take a rest day or two when they get tender (you'll know). If they tear, you'll be more limited. Have fun - it's a unique place.

My workmate went up there yesterday and access is good - drove to within one switch from the TH. Get up there while you can!

You'll get more information from this thread I've been very happy with a WM Caribou in a bivy sack for three-season use in the Cascades and Sierras.

Agreed. I've gone to them for many years and the quality and service have been great. They did some nice toe repair work that has held up well.

Cool - who needs summits, with all that amazing terrain?

Yeah it's Bishop with a back-country guidebook.

Cool! So how is the climbing on the upper pitches - above the sweet slabs?

Fabulous pics of a great route! If folks aren't up to freeing the overhangs (as we weren't), it's a fun outing at something like 5.10 C2.

I can do Tuesday, but need to be in Seattle at 7 pm. Let's work on details via PM.

Possibly...my guess would be Tuesday. I'll check my work schedule tomorrow and get back to you.

I’m hot for Safe Sex (5.9), but something on Exfo would be cool too. Could meet anywhere between B’ham and Arlington.

Actually Darin, Steph's 'far right crack system' is farther over than the wide cracks you're thinking of and a fantastic pitch - a long corner with nice finger locks everywhere you want one. But the ridge option sounds like it's worth going back for too!

Dang Steph, you ought to get into the guidebook business! Nice twilight photo with the Hwy 20 headlights. Kind of a bummer how much road noise carries up to the that bench.

That's a pretty good rumor - and I'm sure Eddie will get a good chuckle out of it! He did take a nasty fall off the Tooth in 1990, but I don't think he was ever involved in any accidents or new routing in Darrington. That being said, I'd love to see the upper pitches of Magic Bus get cleaned up and some new hardware. Thanks Mark and crew!

PMed ya

Assuming the dates in your title are off, and you're interested in tomorrow, I could be interested in a Darrington outing. I can call you in an hour or two.

Topo looks pretty good, but the leader should be aware there is a bit of 5.9 (thin corner with small wires) above the "5.8 crux" on pitch 4. I wrote down some detailed pitch descriptions if you or anyone else wants to see em.

Great climb and TR! I thought the crux on the bonus pitch was the last couple slab moves to the belay and some think it's the corner itself. The fact that opinions differ speaks to the varied and sustained climbing on that pitch.

Definitely a monster day. And besides, did Croft ever take a doping test?

Getting out of there in 6 hours doesn't sound too bad. We just came out via the ridge route to the north in a leisurely seven (in took longer). There were a few patches of down lodgepole to lose the thread in, but pretty nice travel overall.

We all need a nice 'booty fantasy' from time to time

I suspect returning the cams was compensation for the model-release rights for the first photo? Nice tale and photos, T. Outstanding snag shots.