Rad

It's possible to rent a sat phone pretty cheap these days - either online or at a place on Westlake in Seattle.

Sounds like an amazing adventure. It's unfortunate the park got a chopper to rescue you when you didn't need it. That illustrates why carrying a sat phone or other device might be useful - it could have saved others substantial time, money, and worrying. Glad you came out in one piece. That's a long time to be in the firing zone!

I plan to write a TR, but life may delay its completion and posting. Here are a few comments about conditions that might be helpful to those considering heading to Challenger soon. Bottom line: There is still tons of snow up high. The Challenger Glacier was not challenging. Easy Ridge was not that easy. Consider traversing Whatcomb instead. We took three days to get to Perfect Pass via Easy Ridge. One day to summit Challenger. Two days to return via Whatcomb Pass and Bush Creek. Photos: One creek crossing close to the Hannagan trailhead was sketchy. It had several thinning ice bridges over a chasm. We elected to take the high route, which involved a controlled fall across hard mud to a small perch on a sloping wet ledge. Miss that and you go over the waterfall shown. This will change fast but may still provide some excitement. Despite snowmelt and rain in the hours before our crossing, the Chiliwack was no problem. The climber's trail to Easy Ridge is pretty easy to find and bushwhacking is pretty minimal. The trail, however, is annoying as it gains so little elevation per switchback. There was one steep snow slope on Easy Ridge that was 45-50 degrees with an unknown runout in the mist below us. This felt sketchy with heavy packs but we didn't rope up as we didn't have a picket to protect it. The top of it is a large cornice like the one near Easy Peak in the photo below. Shots from Bush Creek a few days later confirmed the overhanging nature of the cornices all along Easy ridge. Don't go near the edge! The long steep traverse is followed by a short steep section next to rotten rock: Thankfully this is short and ends at flats that run to Easy Peak and beyond. It might be possible to avoid the hazards mentioned above by crossing the first steep snow section low and taversing around the the right, but we don't know as it was socked in when we were there. Perfect Pass also has a ton of snow and a large cornice (not shown). The Challenger glacier is in great shape. The bergshrund is easily avoided by running around the right end of it. Either stay on the final snow arete or jump on the rock at a nice flat ledge down and left of it as we did. The summit block section has pins. If you want to augment them bring a few pieces in the 0.5 to 2" range. There is really only one 5.7ish move in a 30ft pitch. We elected to return by traversing below Whatcomb peak, across the Whatcomb glacier, and down Bush Creek. This was quite straightforward due to high snow conditions. Whatcomb peak is in the upper left in this shot taken from Challenger Arm. Traverse across the snow to the lower right edge of the photo below. We did not rope up on the Whatcomb glacier, and I'm a pretty conservative climber, but conditions may change there. The hike down Bush Creek was gorgeous and made for a nice loop.

The most straight-forward descent from Stuart is the Cascadian couloir, which puts you quite a way down the valley from Ingalls Lake and Goat PAss. It would take a while to hike back up to your bivy. Also, Dtail is a good distance from Cascadian. Kurt's suggestion is a good one. Here's a variation that may be a little easier, assuming it's easier to carry your gear over Stuart than to spend a lot of time hiking back up to your bivy spot. Two days: Teanaway trailhead over to the N Ridge of Stuart. Climb same, descend Cascadiand and return over Long's pass to your car. There are only two 5.9 pitches on the upper NR of Stuart, and they are both short. The rest is much easier. Two days: Drive around to Ltown, try to get a Colchuck area bivy. If you can, stay at Colchuck Lake one night. Climb Dtail the next, return to you camp, and hike out that afternoon. If you can't get a pass you might do Dtail as a very long day or bivy somewhere along the Stuart basin (not sure if that's the right name). You'd have to be quite fit and able to move swiftly over complex terrain to pull off this combo. You might consider taking 3 days to do the complete NR of Stuart at a more leisurely pace. Then recover in Ltown and go do Outer Space on Snow Creek Wall to cap off your trip. Good luck and have fun!

It's not secret. If you send me a pm with your email I'll send you the beta and you can go with or without me. You are right. More traffic would be good. The style of climbs is rather different from the rest of X38 so the people who will most enjoy this area probably don't climb at X38 much - at least not the Far Side. So this has been a way to attract them out there. And it's worked. And if you hike at a decent pace and know where you're going it's 15-18 minutes. That's less than WWI, WWII, and all of Index if you include driving times in calculation and live South of Bothell.

Thanks for posting. Fun to meet you guys at Copper Creek and share the trail on the last day of our trips. I'll work on our Challenger TR soon. cheers, Rad

Dru can post a photo, but unless it gets hot for an extended period, the pocket glacier will probably not melt off entirely this year. We were up in the Challenger area last week and there is still TONS of snow up high.

While you're at it with the pitons, can you make the crack big enough to fit my fingers? Then it would be safer because I won't fall. Yosemite here we come!

Anyone been up there recently? Can we drive to the Hannegan pass trailhead? I heard the road was blocked in late May about 1.5 mi back. Hope it's been cleared by now. What about the Chiliwack crossing? Maybe high like every other river in the PNW. Your favorite beta for finding the upper crossing for the Imperfect Impasse? Mileage from trailhead to Perfect Pass? Thanks much. Rad

It does stink when kids pick on you and the teacher looks the other way. But one wonders why you are the target of so much abuse. This thread, and a few similar ones you've posted, might make sense for a total newbie, but for someone who's climbed for many years, they just seem to spark derision. They might as well have "kick me" in the title. It's not surprising some people oblige. I've been tempted but try to take the high road. Oops. I guess I failed...

X38 has some crags that dry fast. All of the following will be wet when it is actively raining. The Gun Show has three high quality 11s that dry fast and don't seep (from what I've seen). They are 11d, 11c, and 11a/b. The 11d (thin moves on a short, off-vertical face) is 2 lines right of the Endless Bliss slab. The 11c (bouldery over a bulge into a corner and then jugs overhang) and 11a/b (decent holds on slightly overhanging wall) are next to each other down to the right. All three have excellent rock. There is a 10c (soft) ramp - go straight up after 12feet into the 11c. Just right is an independant line (Tea Time) that is nice. The 11d and a/b are pretty short. Tea Time is not in a guide. Nevermind will seep after hard rains, but after the mild mist we've had I'd bet most of the lines are good to go. From left to right I think the given ratings are 11d, 11c, 11a, 12a/b, 11b, 11d, 10c, 11c, 10a, 10d, 10d, 11a, 11c, 10d, 9, 12a, 12b. All in the guide. I'm not a fan of the shattered rock here, but some climbs are really good. Then the Shangri-La crag mentioned in another thread has several lines that dry fast and are a bit longer. There is a 30m 11 on great rock that is a bit reachy (11+ for shorter folks?)and hard to onsight, but the cruxes are well protected. An 11+ just right of it has a bouldery crux off the ground that sometimes can be slow to dry, but with a stick clip one can bypass the wet spot and do the other 25m at 11-/11. There is a 12 (b?) on a continuously overhanging wall that stays dry and is fantastic (I'm biased). The 11- arete right ogf Guillotine is great and dries fast. There is a short, powerful bouldery 11c in the cave just before the Block of Doom at X38 Far Side (see topos for this feature). Ratings on the 10s nearby are rather soft. There are some fun 11s way up the Deception trail if you're willing to do the 30-40min uphill approach. I don't know which ones dry fast. The Country at Index has a bunch of 10s and 11s that dry pretty fast. I haven't been on the 12s there. Others can comment.

What difficulty are you seeking?

Wayne the few bucks I gave you were for gas, not marketing the thread, but thanks. Nice lead on Small Arms Fire in the rain! That one is thin even when dry. It'll be easy next time you go.

Wonderful. I'm hoping to head up there too but via Easy Pass.

Don't know that one, but some Index grades should be taken with a large grain of salt. Case in point: the "10c" direct start to GM.

I'd second Gene's recommendation to do Sahale as it has some of the best views in the state and is very moderate. You don't need a rope for the "glacier" as you can walk around any cracks it may have, but some people want one for the rock scramble to the top. If you are down South, you might consider doing Pinnacle Peak next to Rainier. It also has great views and is easy. It's not a mountain on the scale of any of the others you've mentioned, but it's a fun outing. You can link it with other peaks along the ridge for extra fun.

Wondering what land is what along the I90 corridor? Check this map

From what I've seen, people park just outside the fee area so you get a bunch of cars on the road instead of in the parking lot. Maybe this has been answered, but don't you have to provide amenities to start charging fees? I'm thinking of X38 Far side, which is at the edge of Ollallie State Park. There is no rest room, no trash can, no trail maintainance, no water. The only thing new is parking lines and a sign about the permit. The irony is that they don't even own or control the land that people are accessing: the Far Side trails and climbing areas are on BLM land. So what will the revenues be used for if not amenities that benefit users?

I've just barely scratched the surface in this domain myself so I can't add much. I do look forward to seeing what other people recommend. Lay of the Land in the Woods at X32 is really good. Take a nut and sling the wire on a hangerless bolt on the right face halfway up. You'll see... I liked Bust the Move. It's pretty much 5.10 climbing to a V4 boulder problem, so very different from Rainy Day. The other 12a at Nevermind (toward the left - name escapes me) is probably harder and more interesting than Culture Shock. I haven't redpointed. You can easily work it by TRing after climbing Steep Street. And of course I'll throw in a vote for Skullduggery at X38.

Not sure about Slesse. The Pocket glacier is a hazard, but it might be so packed with snow that it's solid and safe now. Since you mention Slesse, I'm assuming you want a long, free, rock route with an alpine flavor. In that vein, I'd put the Passenger on SEWS high on your list. It has a bunch of 5.10 and 5.11 pitches on clean rock in a great setting.

Amen. I understand the main developers have moved away or moved on - so now there are a bunch of routes that are not getting climbed. Maybe time to have a conversation with the land owners and get this thing in the open.

HOT on sunny summer days.

Yep. Pathetic. We've turned our rangers into meter maids. I'm sure they don't like the situation any more than we do. This country is a la carte. Schools, transportation, bridges, parks. I personally would be glad to pay taxes to fund these things if we could be confident funds would be managed efficiently...

Unsolicited advice: get a hall pass, leave the 15 mo w/your spouse or someone else you trust, and take a day to climb (post in partners forum if needed). No need to feel guilty. You, your spouse, and your 15 mo will likely have more fun. Everybody needs some space from their own kids from time to time - otherwise we'd go crazy. Good luck!

Trip: Shangri-La, X38 - Various Date: 6/17/2011 Trip Report: I blame Alex. He put the drill in my hands, loaned me my first bit and bolts, and sparked the route development flame. In 2006, together with Weekendclimbers, we discovered the Shakespeare wall and set about establishing routes on it. In the process, I learned the fine art of killing small plants while dangling on the end of a rope. This experience inspired the area’s first route name (Macbeth) and the area name theme. The result was four fun 5.9/5.10 route. If you grow tired of the X38 Deception crowds wander up and try them. The following spring, the three of us were climbing at X38 Far Side crags on a blustery day. Actually, the rope was blowing up above our heads, we couldn’t communicate, and our hands grew numb. We rapped off and abandoned the idea of climbing that day. Instead of heading straight for beer, we decided to explore the giant, rambling, shattered, mossy buttress opposite Interstate Park. After crossing the talus, scrambling along a ledge, and squeezing behind a bush, we emerged atop the buttress. We peered down the East face of the formation and were awestruck by what we saw: steep, clean, unexplored cliffs. The rock looked better than most of X38, some two pitch lines looked possible, and there were opportunities for trad routes. Other than a few rusty pitons left decades earlier and a single bolt at the top of the cliff, we found no evidence of previous explorers. A new adventure and obsession was started. After the first few routes, Alex switched his energies to kids and sailing. Weekend bailed when he got injured. So I cobbled together partners where I could or went out solo to scratch the insatiable itch. Here are a few routes, photos, and stories: Guillotine was an obvious and arresting line up a giant corner. Its namesake flake is 4-6 inches thick, 40 square feet, partially detached, and has a sharp upper edge. You’d definitely get the chop if it peeled off and landed on you. We worried about its stability, but it doesn’t budge or ring when hammered and rough calculations suggest it weighs about three tons. Everyone who leads this climb places cams behind the flake, underclings it, and then liebacks its sharp upper edge. No leader has fallen there. Yet. In writing this, I’m inspired to place a cam behind the Guillotine and bounce test it – will report back if anything moves. First ascent. Not wanting to bolt a line that might be protected with cams and nuts, I decided to try to lead the route on gear. I expected it would be run out but was pleasantly surprised to find plenty of solid gear. The twinkle toes traverse and unprotected slab moves at the top added an exclamation point to an already great day. We pulled the rope and Michael Decker led it right after me. The FA of Guillotine in 07. Ian commits to the Guillotine in June, 2011. Note that Ian has clipped the first two bolts of Free Radical, the 11a arête right of Guillotine. Purists can place solid trad gear in that section and safely skip those bolts. Further History Book is a trad route up a crack in a left-leaning dihedral. The route gets its name from an ancient piton near the lower crux that only a fool would trust. The top of History Book had two teetering death blocks and no sign of human passage, suggesting the route had never been climbed to its logical conclusion atop the cliff. The route is now clean. Experienced trad leaders will find an abundance of gear options, but less experienced, cam-plugging gym monkeys might not agree. Several people have likened this route to Roger’s Corner at Index. First ascent. History Book looked relatively moderate and protectable with trad gear, so I trundled the offending blocks and decided to try it ground-up, onsight. I started up with large pruning shears tucked into the back of my harness, paused on lead to lop off a small bush that blocked the lower crux, and continued to the top without incident. Michael followed cleanly and then led a wandering trad pitch to the left that remains unrepeated. Todd contemplates the moves above the roof. Crouching Tiger was named for the original solution to the first roof. Better beta has since emerged, but you may find yourself crouching on slopers higher up anyway. First ascent. I led this without incident on a perfect summer day in 2008. Michael pulled the rope and led it right after me. I was hoping this might be my first 5.11 FA, but we agreed it didn't make the grade. With high texture slopers, directional holds, and well-spaced bolts, it definitely makes you think. Mike (not Decker) scans the slopers on Crouching Tiger. Hidden Dragon is long and devious, with four different cruxes on fabulous stone. Fortunately, there are good rests between the cruxes. One key hold is nearly invisible and another is impossible to see from below. These inspired the route name, though images of flying through the forest in epic battle seemed to fit as well. If you are less than 5’9” and/or don’t find the hidden holds, Hidden Dragon may feel more like 11+ than mid-11. Many people have now climbed this route, but no one has on-sighted it yet. Maybe this Saturday... First ascent. I back-clipped the first bolt, corrected it, fired the opening crux, and then blew the cryptic dropknee/breadloaf pinch on the second crux and fell. Thanks for the catch, Blake! I rested, swapped the drop knee for a toe hook, and sent the route next go. 2009. Brandon working out the first of the four riddles on Hidden Dragon. Skullduggery takes the most moderate line on a continuously overhanging wall. I rapped in from the top and knew right away that this project could take my climbing to the next level. At first I couldn't do a single move. I relentlessly worked out a sequence that fit my height, abilities, and style, set a boulder problem in the gym to train certain movement, drew an incredibly detailed topo that depicted every hold and twist and foot placement, and did movement-specific strength training and visualization. Part of my sequence involves a full body bridge into a hand/foot match on an overhanging wall. The route name means an act of trickery or deception and harks back to jargon friends and I used during mischievous and carefree camp counselor days many moons ago. First ascent. One cool morning last summer I went out with Jens for my first redpoint attempt. After warming up on Crouching Tiger and Free Radical, I hopped on Skullduggery. Fortunately, that morning I was in the zone – that rare space where everything flows and mind and body perform seamlessly as one. It was almost as if I was a detached observer watching a carefully choreographed gymnastics routine unfold. I sent the route first go. Oddly, it was both anti-climactic and deeply satisfying. No one has yet repeated the route, but I think it will happen this Saturday... Mike on Skullduggery. Side view of the Skullduggery wall.