Rad

Dberdinka and I linked pitches (as indicated below) so you don't need to use those bolts (unless I'm confused about which bolts you are referring to). The placements near the bolts in question are solid so you can easily skip them. There is a small ledge with cracks for an anchor just above them. 60m rope variation: P1 = short climb/scramble to the big tree. P2 = chimney, layback, and walk the ledge over to the base of the 5.9 finger crux. P3 = 5.9 crux, two corners and small roofs, pass bolts in question, belay at horizontal cracks and semi-hanging belay. P4 = Corner with many pins leading up to a sea of knobs. P5 = Knobs to goatland. Lastly, there are many pins and bolt-like things on the pitch above the bolts in question that looked questionable. In these spots it would be hard to place nuts or cams, so if you're on a mission to replace fixed gear I'd look into those instead. That's what I think too.

Ralston still living life to the fullest after accident Story Tools: Print Email Associated Press Posted: 2 days ago ASPEN, Colo. (AP) - As he sawed through the final strands of his own tissue and skin with a dull blade, Aron Ralston was overcome with emotion, awash in a wave of euphoria unlike anything he'd felt before. Malnutrition and dehydration, delirium, searing pain - none of it registered anymore. Held captive by a half-ton boulder at the bottom of a narrow canyon for five days, Ralston freed himself by severing his own arm, gaining an unexpected second chance at life. Two years after being trapped in a canyon and having to saw off his own arm to escape, Aron Ralston is happy to be alive. (E Pablo Kosmicki / Associated Press) Resigned to death the night before, Ralston felt more alive than ever, glowing from what he believed to be the close of one life and birth of another. And he hasn't stopped living in the two years since. "At this point, I've got the confidence to know that I'll get through anything in my life given I have the motivation to do it," Ralston said. "If it's an act of survival, we've all got a reason to keep living. It may not be pretty, but surviving is grit and determination in its highest form. I learned that I've got the capacity to do a hell of a lot more than I thought I could if I have the proper motivation." Heading out on a relatively benign - at least to an experienced mountaineer such as Ralston - hike through a slot canyon in the Utah desert in April 2003, Ralston became trapped when a chockstone dislodged and trapped his right arm. With little food, less water and virtually no chance of being rescued, Ralston used drastic means to extend his life, from drinking his own urine to rigging ropes and webbing to support his weight. Unable to budge the boulder with a makeshift pulley system or break it with a multi-tool, Ralston escaped by torquing his arm against the rock to break his bones, then ripping through his decaying flesh with a small, dull knife. His bloody stump wrapped in a makeshift sling, Ralston rappelled down a 60-foot drop, then hiked six miles through the desert before an improbable sequence of events, including stumbling across a family of hikers and getting to a helicopter just in time, helped save his life. It was a staggering display of human will and survival, and the tale spread inspiration across the world. "It really was a miracle that things just worked and fell into place," said Donna Ralston, who spent two frantic days coordinating rescue efforts for her son from her Denver-area home. "I feel like there was a reason why things happened in the way they did. It wasn't just happenstance." She's not the only who sees it that way. During his darkest moments in the bottom of the canyon, Ralston had a vision of a young boy. Unlike his previous visions that final night, Ralston said he was able to touch this one, lifting the boy upon his shoulder with an arm missing its right hand. Ralston had come to terms with his death the night before and now this boy, which he believed to be his future son, had given him a reason to live. And Ralston has done just that. Though the first few months after the accident were filled with surgeries, a kaleidoscope of painkillers and frustrating inactivity, it didn't take Ralston long to return to what he loves. It started with hiking and running with friends, and pretty soon he was back scaling 14,000-foot peaks, skiing summits and climbing ice walls. Using prosthetics he helped develop, Ralston completed a nine-year project of scaling the highest point in all 50 states, then became the first person to solo climb all 59 of Colorado's fourteeners (14,000-foot peaks) in winter, crossing the last 14 off his list after the accident. In January, he summited Argentina's 22,840-foot Mt. Aconcagua, the world's highest mountain outside Asia, then climbed and skied 10 peaks of at least 13,000 feet in the spring. Ralston also got into ultrarunning, first taking on the Leadville 100 high in the central Rockies, then testing his willpower and fitness in the diabolical Hardrock, a 100-mile race featuring 66,000 feet of elevation change. In case that wasn't enough, Ralston tried surfing, spent more time mountain biking and did all kinds of hiking and climbing. Aron Ralston, the climber who cut off his own arm to survive a harrowing ordeal in a Utah canyon two years ago, is able to still climb with the aid of a specially designed artificial arm. (Reno Gazette-Journal, Marilyn Newton / Associated Press) That Ralston's love for the wilderness didn't diminish with his accident isn't a surprise; he's had a spiritual connection with the outdoors since he was a teenager. What did change was Ralston's appreciation for those closest to him. Content with isolating himself and doing things on his own before, Ralston now makes sure family and friends are included in his life more and understands how much they mean to him. "I think my spirituality is very similar to what it was before. It wasn't as if I went through some kind of enlightenment and figured out all the answers," said Ralston, who'll turn 30 in October. "I figured out what was important to me, but I knew that before. I just didn't express it as much to the people I appreciate, to my family and friends, and I've tried to be more practiced in that." And it goes beyond his inner circle. As his astonishing story of survival spread, Ralston was inundated with thousands of letters and e-mails from people thanking him for giving them inspiration. The correspondences continued and spiked again when his best-selling book, "Between a Rock and Hard Place," hit the shelves last fall. Realizing his story meant so much to so many people, Ralston lifted the spirits of thousands more by reliving his ordeal in person. Sure, some of it is for profit, but most of his speaking engagements are for nonprofit organizations and fund-raisers, with plans to hit a few colleges later this year. And while he's fulfilled all his current speaking contracts, Ralston keeps telling his story, the weight of obligation still too heavy for him to escape. "We're proud of him because of the person he is and because he feels so strongly that he has a story that is inspirational, and he's willing to tell it over and over and share with other people and give people hope," Donna Ralston said. "I think that says a lot about his character." As for the future, Ralston doesn't want to look too far ahead. His immediate plans include a tour for the paperback release of his book on Sept. 1, and more writing for magazines such as Men's Journal and Outside. Ralston also plans to do more speaking, is in talks for a motion picture about his life and will continue running Ralstar Enterprises, the company he created to handle the opportunities that have come with his newfound fame. Of course, there'll be plenty of time in the outdoors, too. Ralston has been invited to climb in New Zealand this winter and will head to the Himalayas next year to ski a pair of 8,000-meter peaks. He's also planning to high-point all 50 states again, this time in 50 consecutive days, and would eventually like to climb K2, the world's second-highest mountain. Beyond that, Ralston has no specific plans other than to meet the boy in his vision - when the time is right. "I think it's out there and it's not something that I treat lightly," Ralston said. "At the same time, I realized there's a lot that's going to have to change in my life before I become a father as far as how I live, my priorities, where I might live. When the time comes, that's something I want to be just as passionate about as how passionate I am in how I live now."

Rivers are now very, very low so you might get someone who tells you it is knees or lower. Last week I could easily wade across Icicle Creek by the Snow Creek bridge and trailhead. Normally it's 5-10 ft higher and you'd be swept to Leavenworth if you tried. Other options include: Belay her across or have her cross clipped to a fixed line with a runner. Then you'd be schwacking with a wet rope on your back.

Many, myself included, choose to use their real names or some permutation therof. Others, like halloween party guests, masquerade in costume. Doubtless, they have various reasons for remaining hidden. Both sets can inform and entertain, both can lie, attack, and spray. I think neither is inherently more reliable than the other. By watching the posters over time, regardless of their avatars, you can decide whom you will trust and whom to ignore . ps. NOLSe, change your personal info any time of the day or night.

Nice job guys. Juan, looked like ice 2 weeks ago. See photos: N ridge ice Gene Pires and I went to do it in a day 2 weeks ago. We crossed the Boston glacier, hopping more crevasses and sketchy bridges than any glacier I've crossed before. Boston Glacier We got a good look at the N side of the N ridge from the higher/first notch and decided it was a no go because we had one axe apiece, no pro for ice, and I'm an ice newbie/wannbe. Tough call, but it felt right. TF traverse backside We retraced our torturous path across the glacier, climbed over sharkfin col on easy rock, and returned to the car around dusk. escape to Sharkfin col The next day I went up Eldo with another friend. In comparison, it was a creampuff outing, with extra lovely frosting. Creampuff summit eldo in the mist

Yes, a pine marten. Good photo. They're usually shy. They like to eat

West Mac spire, Forbidden, Eldorado, Sloan, Mt Stuart, Mt Constance, Dragontail, and others. Do you want to climb these Cascade classics in a day from car to car? If so, you should probably spend more time working on your cardiovascular fitness levels than crimping on plastic. How do you keep fit? Never one to spend much time in gyms, I seek outdoor cardio-workouts that have the following elements: Minimal driving hassle, no major bushwhacking, a steep and non-technical route, killer views, no crowds, a good swimming hole near the finish, and, of course, beautiful alpine terrain. We're so lucky to have lots of local spots that fit the bill. Two of my recent favorites: 1 - Baring mountain summit via the scramble route from the Barclay Lake trailhead (class 2+). 3800 feet of vertical gain in 2 miles. There is no maintained trail. Get out of the creekbed quickly and gain 1800 feet in the first half mile! Intermission is a half mile of moss-laden narrow forested ridgecrest with views through the tall trees. Then ascend more steep pine needles, a nice talus field, and continue up to the summit. Pros: You probably won't meet anyone after you leave the trailhead, no trail means more of a wilderness ambience, and the views are outstanding from the summit. Almost all of the steep climbing is in the shade! I wore sneakers and shorts and came away with nary a scratch. Cons: no water/fluids after you leave the creek down low. My unverified time to the summit: 2:14. Lactic-ass-id burns forced rests up high. You'll probably be under 2 hrs. The cliff looks steep enough for base jumping, which would spare the knees the descent. Swim at Eagle falls and check out the local teen scene, brah! 2 - Denny creek trailhead to the summit of Kaleetan via the S ridge scramble (class 2/3). 4000 feet of vertical gain over 5 miles from trailhead to summit. Pros: there's an excellent trails so you can wear running shoes and run much of the way if you like. You are near water almost the entire way so you don't need to carry it. Cons: this is a mid-week outing as the trail can be very crowded. Also, the route is not as steep as some. My jogging time to the summit: 2:27 (No Fido timers available). Swimming hole: Denny creek near where the road crosses the last bridge. What are your favorites? (Don't say Si or Rainier ).

Bouldering in the buttermilks w/Sharma and Call Wilson's Eastside sports in Bishop and ask them some questions. That's the local climbing/backpacking store. They should have ideas for you. Whitney and Tuolumne (Cathedral) will involve a lot of quality time

Amen. If you liked Brian's article send him an email telling him so. He responded to me promptly the last time I sent him one, and I'm sure he appreciates notes from climbers as he is one.

Nice photo of the OW pitch. It shows how a butt scum/chimney/stem helps ease the difficulty. I remember doing a similar move on the crux corner fist crack on the Braille Book in Yosemite. That one, at 5.8, was greasy and felt harder than this one on Backbone. Then again, I led the former and followed the latter. So much for your pure onsight!

The Sleeping Pen When the pulse of pounding blood, Tempest tossed in the human flood of tasks, Ebbs into gentle waves and then still, It all comes flowing back to me Like the silent reflection of a beautiful peak Brought clearly into focus as the wind-whipped ripples Of the lake are silenced, I am here, I can't see in their eyes if they can see her too, Forested green rising gray granite into windy blue, Or simply concentric, amorphous rings on a green topo sheet, Flat in scientific ignorance, But I can smell the spruce calling beyond my roof, Needles softly nestling deep in a million silent layers, Connected like summer snowflakes Under my sleeping spine, I will not fight the sea of clouds in blue Or try to channel the granite wind into human sails, But simply let go in millions of tiny cells in tune As it all flows utterly through me In chaotic rhythms no voice could ever hope to capture Nor words confine to flat, black lines, There is nothing I need to know of how, Only here and now, How ironic then, the sleeping pen, When we both are trapped in flatland square, Craving ever twisting, curving lines, Only to find in silence sublime The great glory of life gushing right beside our path, Burbling clear waterfall pools of mossy stones In rhythmic, atonal synchrony inside these veins If only we'd just stop to listen. ................ Perhaps all of us find a piece of inspiration there at times.

OK. Maybe I'm overreacting and it's all just playful banter from otherwise nice people. I certainly wouldn't want to censor or sanitize this site as some of the most interesting parts come from the more colorful chacters. Flame on! I just hope you realize that each of you can influence our public standing for good or bad. Look at the how the Mtneers deftly managed the press regarding the Sharkfin accident. The post here on cc got more hits (>15,000) than any other post I've seen on cc. Perhaps a lot of those hits were from non-cc folks. I bet if the accident had not involved the Mtneers then it would have been painted in a different color by the press. Lastly, hats off to Mike Gauthier whose NPR chat on Mt Rainier this morning was both educational and entertaining. Let's hope you're right, but then why do they spend so much time here? Boredom at work?

Did you summit? Where do you sleep? How did the rope get up there? How do you go to the bathroom? We’ve all heard our share of mildly annoying questions posed by people who don’t understand the particulars of different kinds of climbing. Certain threads encourage flippant or rude responses to these innocent inquiries. If the sole purpose of your internet fantasy comebacks is to vent your frustration in a safe environment then click away. If, however, you actually respond to the benign curiosity of the public with disdain, sarcasm, and snobbery then you are shitting in our bed. The hikers, exuberant scramblers, and others you believe to be inferior to yourself are all out to enjoy the same glorious mountains and cliffs that you are. Is their passion and enthusiasm any less valid than your own? Their image, and by extension that of the public at large, of climbing and climbers may well be formed by their impression of you. You are, like it or not, a spokesman for the entire climbing community when you address those questions, whether on the trail, at school, at parties, or in conversations with your republican grandmother. Those people you scorn probably vote. Their perception of the climbing community, shaped by your comments, is reflected in the popular press and ultimately in the officials elected to public office. Those public officials help determine the policies that govern the uses of the public lands that hold our beloved mountains and cliffs. Your actions may help determine how climbing is regulated, or even banned in certain areas. What image of climbing would you like to propagate? Will the public believe that climbers are belligerent risk-takers who degrade our natural resources and wrecklessly endanger themselves at the taxpayer’s expense? Or will they believe that climbers are legitimate users of our parks and public places who help contribute to the proper stewardship of these treasured natural resources? The choice is yours. The next time non-climbers pepper you with mildly annoying questions don’t get annoyed. In fact, you’ve been given a small opportunity to help nudge public opinion in the right direction. Just please don’t shit in our bed.

Don't forget to apply your knowledge of physics in setting anchors and rappels. When possible, sling the base of blocks and avoid anchors that may torque or lever the block out of its resting position. A back-up anchor is a good idea, but it can be time consuming and impractical to set them at every rap station on long descents. If you use a back-up anchor make sure it is completely independent (e.g. separate crack system). Stoppers in cracks on opposide sides of a large block are NOT independent. Rappel separately and avoid bouncing to minimize forces applied to the block. Don't be cheap! Place a fresh sling, leave an extra stopper and carabiner, or even two, if necessary. Your life is worth more than the $20 you may spend replacing those few pieces.

I was on Washington late spring and convinced my partners to extend our outing by trying the traverse to Elinor. While we were up there we had hail, mist, rain, and snow, so the rock was rather wet. Here's what we found: Looks like it is best done from Washington to Elinor. You could probably make it by staying high and climbing on rock for the entire first half. Because it was wet and we didn't have rock gear, we reversed the first part of the Washington ascent route, which is on the E side of the ridge. FYI, Washington is just a scramble that doesn't require any rope of gear. We traversed Southward under the ridge crest in alpine terrain (E side). At various points we popped up to peek over at the West side but it looked like you'd have to drop down awfully low to traverse around some kitty litter cliffs. The terrain is too complicated to describe easily here. Use your outdoor skills. We got to the final steep climb to the shoulder of Elinor and decided to bail. We were looking at a climbing long, steep snow slope broken by a band of wet rock. Because we had no rock gear or pickets and the weather was iffy we decided not to go up that way. There were footptints there so it can be done. Early season might be best so more of the rock is covered. The first crux of the day is finding the right trail to avoid bushwhacking through broken cliffs up to the alpine zone. I flagged the trail entrance, which starts at a rock about 50yds back from the first obvious parking turnout on the spur logging road for the Washington area. Have fun! Footnote: there are some very cool rock towers that would be fun to climb when dry. I don't know if there are bolts or a rap anchor for descending them.

The first part of the approach is along an overgrown logging road. It is not too brushy and is nicely graded, easy to follow. The trail crosses a small creek just before the turn uphill. This is a good place to drink and fill your water. The uphill bit is a classic climber's approach, straight up, but it is not hard to follow. The descent to the camping area from the obvious col that Wazzu mentioned was loose and ugly in August so I hope it is snow-covered for you. The snow slopes on the approach to the route are very straight forward. We were on there at night, but I remember only one crevasse that was quite small. The ridge has its share of kitty litter. The Pickets is one of the most pristine alpine wilderness areas in the lower 48. Enjoy it but please tread very lightly. I look forward to getting back out there. The flowers should be amazing right now. Enjoy!

RIP. More info in the Seattle Times article: Long night with death for student climber By Craig Welch and Warren Cornwall Seattle Times staff reporters The Mountaineers As darkness descended over the North Cascades Sunday, Janel Fox faced a night shivering in the rain below a gnarled granite ridge, huddled not far from the bodies of her climbing instructors. The 28-year-old mountaineering student from Seattle had hiked into Boston Basin as the least-experienced of six mountaineers, and one of two students hoping to summit the 8,120-foot Sharkfin Tower to complete a basic climbing class from The Mountaineers, the Northwest's most storied climbing organization. By early Sunday evening, everything had unraveled. Fox's two trip leaders were dead, killed by a falling rock the size of a refrigerator. The only other uninjured survivor, Michael Hannam of Olympia, was racing down a snowfield to get help. And Fox, the rookie, was left holding two seriously injured climbers — one fading in and out of consciousness, and the other so wounded he later died in Fox's arms. "Janel was amazing," said Pat Timson, a guide for a different group, Alpine Ascents International, who was the first to arrive at the accident scene in the North Cascades National Park Sunday evening. "She had her moments of falling apart. But she held those guys and took care of them. And then she spent the night freezing her butt off, sitting on a foam pad in the snow with a sleeping bag pulled over her." The worst accident in the 99-year history of The Mountaineers finally ended yesterday, when a helicopter dropped Fox and Hannam in Marblemount, Skagit County, carried the injured climbing student, Wayne McCourt of Tacoma, to Harborview Medical Center in Seattle, and took the bodies of the three dead to a morgue. But it may be days or weeks before the National Park Service, Skagit County officials and members of The Mountaineers can determine the precise chain of events in the first multiple climbing fatality in the national park since the 1980s. "We've never, ever had anything like this," said Steve Costie, executive director of The Mountaineers. The dead were identified yesterday as Johanna Backus, 61, of Tacoma, a 19-year member of the Tacoma branch of the Mountaineers; Mark Harrison of Bellevue, a former Marine and a climbing instructor known for being fun and loud; and John Augenstein, 42, of Seattle, who had joined the weekend climb just to help out. McCourt suffered head injuries and was listed in satisfactory condition at Harborview. The accident began to unfold about 4 p.m. Sunday, when the climbers, all members of The Mountaineers, were retreating from a failed attempt to reach the top of Sharkfin, a knob at the head of the Quien Sabe Glacier. Backus, who had been to the top of Sharkfin before, was leading the group with help from Harrison and Augenstein. The trip was part of The Mountaineers' basic climbing course, which draws 300 to 400 people a year. But it's not easy. The route crosses a snowfield and a glacier with crevasses. "Everyone had a lot of training," Costie said. Especially Backus. "You talk about nail-down-all-the-details — she wasn't going to be frivolous out there in the backcountry. You can really trust her." But while descending through a gully, Backus was struck by a falling rock. The rest of the group helped her to a lower point. They were re-rigging ropes when a larger rock fell and hit them, said Tim Manns, spokesman for North Cascades National Park. It's not clear what knocked the rocks free, said Kelly Bush, lead climbing ranger for the national park. "As rare as these kind of accidents are, there is always loose rock in those gullies, so it's always a possibility," Manns said. Officials said they believe Backus and Harrison died instantly. Augenstein and McCourt were both badly injured. The climbers had set up camp below, in Boston Basin. So they were carrying only small packs with little overnight gear. Hannam sprinted down the glacier to the campground for help, finding Timson, who had been preparing to guide his own group into the mountains. Timson sent his group to contact authorities, and then immediately climbed up to Fox. Fifteen minutes later, Augenstein died. By 10 p.m., Hannam had returned with more gear, and rigged a series of tarps to protect McCourt. Fog and rain prevented helicopters from reaching the climbers immediately. But climbing rangers had arrived by 6:45 a.m. "They were really cold, shivering, and in need of something warm," said ranger Alex Brun. "It was a long night, but they made it." Backus, a registered nurse, organized everything from climbs to snowshoe outings for The Mountaineers, and founded a group that takes at-risk kids into the woods. "She was very safe, very sensible and never let good judgment get swayed by desire," said Helen Engle of the Tacoma Mountaineers. Harrison, who friends say performed hostage rescues when he was a Marine, was remembered as a strong climber who led backcountry ski trips and worked with Backus' group for kids. "He was a ton of fun," recalled Jim Farris, a friend who had often climbed with him. Augenstein, friends said, initially came off as a quiet man, probably because he was hard of hearing. But he "was a very warm and funny guy," said friend Ted Baughman, who had gone on a climbing trip to Colorado with Augenstein. The second-worst accident for The Mountaineers was a two-person fatality on Mount Rainier in the late 1960s. Recently, however, the club has experienced an unusual string of fatal accidents: a climbing-trip leader died near the base of Lundin Peak near Snoqualmie Pass in 1997; another climber died in the same area on Kendall Peak in 1999 after sliding down a snow-covered slope; and a student on a basic-climbing-class trip in 2001 died after falling on Guye Peak while traversing a section where people travel without ropes. Craig Welch: 206-464-2093 Copyright © 2005 The Seattle Times Company

Check out the film Step into Liquid, a surf flick, for info on how these were designed to surf big, choppy waves. It's a fun movie w/lots of humorous stories, like Texans surfing infinite waves behind tankers.

Maybe this will alter your view of "French free". Has Robert ever climber the Space Needle? We should invite him. See article w/photos here: Robert in asia International News Amazing! 'Spiderman' scales 62-story building Frenchman climbs Hong Kong skyscraper without equipment Mike Clarke / AFP - Getty Images French free climber Alain Robert climbs the 62-story Cheung Kong Center in Hong Kong, on Saturday. The Associated Press Updated: 10:20 a.m. ET June 11, 2005HONG KONG - A Frenchman who calls himself “Spiderman” scaled a 62-story skyscraper in Hong Kong using only his bare hands on Saturday. Alain Robert scrambled up the Cheung Kong Center in about an hour to find police waiting for him at the top. They checked his passport but did not arrest him, even though he had not sought permission to climb the building. “I slipped only once,” he said. “On a scale of one to 10 in terms of difficulty, this would be a five. I really enjoyed the ascent.” Alain Robert, who calls himself "Spiderman," is seen on the Cheung Kong Center in Hong Kong, on Saturday. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Robert, renowned for climbing without ropes or other equipment, said the building stands 928 feet. In December, Robert scaled the world’s tallest building, Taiwan’s Taipei 101. It took him nearly four hours to reach the top of the 1,679-foot building because it was raining. He has also climbed Malaysia’s Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur, the Eiffel Tower in Paris and the Empire State Building in New York.

Good story and photos. Find time to go climb on Cannon cliff in Franconia notch. There are some fun routes. I used your brand of alpine aid on the last pitch of Moby Grape when the entire thing was running water as the light was fading. The in-the-dark, top-out crawl into the shrubbery and belay from a cluster of twigs was classic!

The sickers may disgust you, but you're unlikely to get Lyme disease if you get them off you. From the CDC: 2005 Tick Tips from the Centers for Disease Control What is Lyme Disease? Lyme disease is caused by bacteria that some people get after being bitten by ticks that are infected with an organism named Borrelia burgdorferi. It was first identified in the 1970s in Lyme, Connecticut. Where is the organism that causes Lyme disease found? The organism is maintained in wild rodents, deer, other mammals and certain Ixodes ticks. It is transferred to people by the bite of the infected tick. Who gets Lyme disease? People of any age can get Lyme disease. It usually occurs during the summer in people who work or recreate outdoors and thus have a greater chance of coming into contact with infected ticks. Dogs, cats and horses can also get Lyme disease. How is the organism spread? The bacteria that cause Lyme disease are spread by ticks. The most common tick involved is the deer tick, or Ixodes scapularis (dammini). Transfer of the Lyme disease bacteria from the infected tick to a person probably does not occur unless the tick has been attached to the body for 36 hours. You cannot get Lyme disease from animals or other people. Deer and rodents, such as the white-footed mouse, are the most common reservoirs of Lyme disease. How common is Lyme disease? About 15,000 cases of Lyme disease are reported each year in the United States. Most of these cases come from Atlantic coast states, from northern Virginia up to Massachusetts. The incidence of Lyme disease in Loudoun County is about 20 times greater than that of the Virginia average. This is most likely due to: the preservation of our county’s beautiful rural nature and woodlands our increasing population, which allows more people to come in contact with ticks a well trained medical community that appropriately diagnoses early Lyme disease, and a well educated citizenry that knows to see their doctor if they have an unusual rash or had a deer tick attached to them for more than 36 hours. Lyme Disease Risk Map (View enlarged image.) State or County Incidence Connecticut 54.2 Rhode Island 37.5 Loudoun 36.0 New Jersey 16.9 Delaware 14.0 Maryland 6.8 Virginia 2.1 * Incidence is the number of new cases diagnosed each year per 100,000 population. What are the signs and symptoms of Lyme Disease? Bull's eye rash In most people, the first symptom of Lyme disease is a “bulls eye” skin rash called erythema migrans (EM) that forms at the site of the tick bite. This lesion is red and slowly gets bigger, usually with a clearing in the center. About 80% of people infected with Lyme disease will notice this type of rash. People might also have flu-like symptoms, such as fatigue, fever, headache, stiff neck, muscle or joint pain, possibly lasting several weeks. If the early disease is not treated, weeks to months after the tick bite other problems may develop such as nervous disorders, heart problems, or joint swelling and pain. How soon after exposure do symptoms appear? The bulls-eye rash may appear within 3 to 32 days (usually within 1 to 2 weeks) after being bitten by an infected tick. What is the treatment for Lyme disease? Antibiotics are very successful in treating early Lyme disease. Treatment of the EM stage usually lasts for 10 to 30 days. Treatment of later stages of disease may take longer. How can Lyme disease be prevented? There is currently no Lyme disease vaccine available for people. The best way to prevent getting Lyme disease is to reduce your chances of getting bitten by a tick and making sure that no tick is attached for more than 36 hours. Steps you can take include: Avoid tick-infested areas, such as tall grasses, whenever feasible. When this is not possible, wear light-colored clothing with long sleeves and long pants and tuck pants into socks. Clothes may be pretreated with a tick repellent called permethrin. Other tick repellents are available for treating the skin. Be sure to follow label instructions before using any repellent. Do a tick check at least once a day. Remove any attached ticks promptly and carefully by gripping the tick with tweezers as close to the skin as possible and using a gentle steady pulling action. Protect hands with gloves, cloth or tissue when removing ticks from people or animals. What should I do if I think I have Lyme disease? You should contact your doctor if you have an unusual rash or believe that you have had a deer tick attached to you for more than 36 hours. Other Tick-borne Diseases Spring and summer bring warm temperatures, just right for walking in the woods and other outdoor activities. Warm weather also means that ticks become active, and this can lead to the transmission of tick-borne disease. The tick-borne diseases most often found in Virginia are Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever and ehrlichiosis. American Dog Tick In the Northeast, the "deer" tick (Ixodes dammini) may transmit Lyme disease. The deer tick is quite a bit smaller than the American Dog tick, and usually has a two-toned body with no patterning on the back. In comparison, the deer tick also has larger mouth parts than the dog tick. and

Warning: I've only been to the Pickets once, and only to the South end. Others can tell you about the North.... Routes we climbed or scoped: 5.9 mortals can easily do the mini-traverse that Ed and I did. See thread below. Mark, Colin, and Wayne's real deal and our minitraverse West Mac spire looks pretty casual but beautiful. E ridge of Inspiration is inspirational. Though the business is really only two pitches, the setting is incomparable. The West ridge of Inspiration (which we down-climbed/rapped) doesn't look too great and the gully to the Terror glacier looks like a nightmare late in the season. The NE ridge on the chopping block (aka Pinnacle) is very nice. Go for it!

Ozette is gorgeous, but a long drive. You can camp out by the coast, or camp at the lake and then hike the loop w/o packs in a leisurely day. The best beach IMHO is N of where the N trail meets the coast. Here are shots from that area to inspire... Olympic dewdrops Ozette from Garden island tree Light in the forest

Check out the photo. Hey, is that your carabiner or are you just happy to see me? Perhaps Spokane mayor James West will join the Wenatchee SAR as his next career move...

Dierdre is a lovely, moderate, multipitch crack climb with good pro. It is a little greasy at the crux due to high traffic, which brings me to the next point: If you plan to do it expect big crowds and long waits. (See threads about slow climbers on outer space for illustration.) One way to avoid the crowds is to go do it in the mid- to late afternoon. A lot of people go after hitting starbucks for breakfast, so they should have mostly cleared off the early pitches by mid-afternoon. The route goes fast, and the days are long now so you should be fine with a late start. I second the pool suggestion. Good way to get clean and relax.