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fenderfour

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Everything posted by fenderfour

  1. fenderfour

    Mind Fuck

    pwned
  2. Hello DEATH. You freak! To hell with Alpine Ninjas, I'm the Alpine Reaper If you brighten it, you will see that' I'm smiling like a jackass.
  3. Yep, that's what I hooked. A left lean helped keep the hook on. Did you take pics of every placement?
  4. Mashed snickers and a bong?
  5. I want to post more assholish stuff like Kat and Oly, but I just can't bring myself to do it. I will post some things that help me. Keep sugarless gum around. whenever you feel like snacking, chew some gum instead. Drink more water. Black coffee has very few calories and the caffeine will boost your metabolism. Have some broth (beef, chicken, veggie) with your meals. It makes you feel more sated. Allow yourself a treat every now and then. Maybe a twinkie or a burger every third day. Have a set item on a set day that you are allowed to have. Nothing more. It will give you something to look forward to and you will be less likely to cheat. Stop eating 3 hours before bedtime. Good luck all.
  6. I didn't know cams had a "right side up" I need more practice with the hooks anyway.
  7. And a bit heavy for a bivy. I would recommend the Integral Designs Salathe or the OR advanced. The Bibler's don't give enough back for how much they weigh and cost.
  8. This one is pretty cool: Another favorite:
  9. It seems more like a bolt ladder than a sport route. maybe somebody else added some more. Thanks for the info.
  10. That was the plan, but our laziness interfered with the execution.
  11. Trip: Index/11Worth - Green Drag-On/Bath tub Dome Date: 5/5/2007 Trip Report: I climbed this weekend. Yeah, maybe I am bragging. You should have gone climbing too. On Saturday CCMeter and I climbed Green Drag-On. We got to the base of the climb and found the Mountaineer's Mentor group. Two people were heading up Town Crier, Two were aiming for Green Drag-On, Three moved out to Dana's Arch. Fortunately for us, the Mounties were very polite and allowed us to climb through. While they worked the real first pitch of Green Drag-On, CCMeter aided the very slimy first pitch of Davis-Holland. We had climbed it (free) a few weeks ago. He said that it was easier free climbing than aid. Those corners fight against you and your gear for some reason. Cleaning that pitch on ascenders is kind of a bitch too. The folks had a ton of questions about the Russian Aid system we were using. Russian Aiders = good times Second pitch was thin and steenky. I felt like I was climbing in a fish bowl. BTW - who bolted the lower section? Was this to stop people from using pitons? A lot of cam hook placements made this pitch interesting. I left the rest of the hooks in the bag at the belay. I could have made a couple of bomber hook placements instead of relying on sketchy gear and taking a short daisy fall (NOOB!). Next pitch was pretty straight forward up to the roof. CCMeter lead it in fine style. At the belay, he said he could have placed about 100 HB offset alloys had they been available. I only have one set . I've been to MountainTools.com and pre-ordered some more. Delivery is Sept/Oct. I got the roof to the overhanging crack. Another Noob manuever sent my #3 ballnut into the abyss. Some bolts lead to an easy (but exciting) hook move to the belay. Seeing a few more bolts and then free climbing, we decided to rappel from here. We had our aid-brains in and no climbing shoes. It was a good day out on some slightly more difficult aid. On Sunday I met up with Octavius and a few others for cragging in the Icicle. We hiked up to Bathtub Dome and tooled around. This was the laziest climbing day I've had in a long time. We climbed the routes on the lower tier and moved to the right. I started climbing what I thought was "Chitlin" in the latest Kramar guide. I topped out at the chains with a full rack of gear wondering why Kramar said the 70' pitch was 180' and why I needed gear to 2" for the 7 clips. Does anyone know the story with this climb? It was to climber's right of the lower tier of Bathtub. A really nice clean low-angle slab with a couple patches of exfoliated patina exposing golden granite beneath. It felt 5.8/5.9 and it was pretty clearly shown as Chitlins in the picture. On the way to Gustav's we stopped for a quick run up Cocaine Connection before the rain came in. To make up for having too much gear on the slab earlier in the day, we didn't bring any for Cocaine Connection. We stopped at the first belay after only located one bolt for the next pitch. I've climbed Cocaine Connection to R&D, but that was a few years ago. All of the masturbation must be affecting my memory. Went to Gustav's for a rueben and beer. A 7 oz box of Everlasting Gobstoppers got me home. I was pretty disappointed when they did end. Yeah, so get out there. Climb some shit. Gear Notes: Green Drag-On Rack: Cam Hooks, double set of cams to #3, BallNutz, one BD Talon hook "Chitlins" rack: Full set of cams to #3, set of nuts. This gear is only to carry up the route so you can "Keep it real" Approach Notes: Hike the trail. Sweat.
  12. New seat time
  13. fenderfour

    Chem

    I usually just say "jitters" you could try this LINK if you need something more.
  14. It was aided before it was freed. I think true FA style gets priority. Everyone stay out of my way as I nail up Davis Holland this weekend.
  15. A little late to respond but... I'm calling a big, fat "bullshit" on this comment. Your mother or father is the person who raised you, not the person who donated genetic material. This statement is a rationalization of what someone wants to do, not a statement of fact. Any jackass with a functioning reproductive system can be a mother or father by clinical definition. edited to add: Genetic donor
  16. Aid climbers woud probably stay off Japanese Gardens if those anchors weren't there. Aid climbers would have to place 4-5 #5 and #6 cams to get up to the next anchor. That just isn't going to happen.
  17. You've got him hooked! Now reel in!
  18. I maintain that assuming the expense of laundry, maid, etc is bullshit. THere are plenty of working parents that still get this stuff doen without paying someone else to do it. Childcare is a big problem for the first 7 years, after that, school handles at least half of it.
  19. It takes a lot of f*cking up to raise a psycho. Assholes and shit heads are easy to crank out, but it takes some focused effort to produce a psycho. True dat
  20. I'm kind of tired of hearing this crap about stay at home parents and how valuable they are, etc... It comes across as a bunch of self-esteem building bullshit for the folks who don't have to commute, deal with workplace discrimination, or the general hassles of life in the working world. If stay at home parents were really this busy, there would be absolutely no way a workign parent could get everything done, but somehow they do.
  21. All metal burns if there is enough surface area. Thermite is aluminum and rust in a powdered form.
  22. I will be there to meet some of y'all.
  23. Niiice.
  24. I just ate a bag of chili-cheese Fritos.
  25. You could hang out with I_like_dumbassery's room mate. He sounds like a fun guy.
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