TeleRoss

Climb: Colchuck Peak-North Buttress Couloir Date of Climb: 1/24/2004 Trip Report: Went to climb and ski the North Buttress Couloir of Colchuck Peak last weekend. After getting a late start out of town we finally made it to the plowed end of Icicle Creek Road. We left icicle creek road for the four mile skin up to the Stuart Lake TH. The four miles took about 1:45 of skinning, and upon arriving at the TH, we decided to stop there for the night. Saturday we skinned up the Stuart Lake trail and made the junction in about 2 hrs. The skinning was pretty easy over firm snow. There was a track to follow from some skiers who were up at the lake a few days before. The morning was beautiful blue skies and we were hoping that the weather was going to turn out better than had been forecast. That quickly changed at the junction with Colchuck Lake trail. The wind kicked up and a steady driving snow would be our constant companion for the rest of the day. After the junction the trail ascends the steep slope leading to Colchuck lake. Skinning up through the three rock outcrop sections near the top of that hill made for some interesting situations but eventually we finally made the lake, in about 2 hours from the junction. Conditions at the lake were pretty nasty, and soon it was a near whiteout, with wind gusts that were threatening to blow us over. But the clouds would break and give us awesome views up to Colchuck Peak and Dragontail. Huge plumes were streaming off of Colchuck Peak making it almost appear like an erupting volcano. We continued across the frozen lake to the south shore and made camp among some trees and large boulders where there was some protection from the wind. We were hoping to be able to ski the glacier that afternoon, but after making camp, the snow had really picked up and visibility was near nil, so we were pretty much pinned down at camp. We ended up spending the rest of the day in the tent. Woke up 6:30 on Sunday morning and set out for the NBC. Skinned for about 1/2 hour up to the glacier moraine where we swapped skins for crampons and made our way to the bottom of the couloir. The couloir is really spectacular, coming right off of the N Buttress at a consistent 40-45 with some sections of near 50 deg. It is bordered by rock spires and walls directly opposite the couloir is the impressive face of Dragontail. A truely awesome setting. Climbing the couloir was straightforeward, however, although conditions were good for climbing, very hard snow and ice, I kept thinking that the ski down was going to be interesting. There were some nice soft sections though which, while I was thinking they were going to be great skiing, postholing through knee to waist deep snow up a 40-50 degree slope was less than fun. We made it nearly to the top of the couloir where it tops out on the N. Buttress, when we encountered a 1-2' deep windslab. With my partner safely behind a large rock outcrop off to the side of the couloir, I slowly made my way up along the rock wall bordering the couloir, waiting for the slab to fail. After about 5 feet a large fracture went all the way across the couloir and the entire slab went. Following that excitement it was a few steps to the top of the couloir. Took ~2 hours to climb the couloir. We decided to pass on finishing the climb to the summit on the NW face due to the avy conditions, and settled on just skiing the couloir from the top of the N Buttress. The descent alternated between really nice turns on the soft layer that the slab had exposed, to the most heinous icy boilerplate imaginable. One major crux section provided an interesting bit of billygoating over rocks and ice, but for the most part the ski was pretty sweet, with a few nerve wracking sections. Back to camp and a quick pack of the gear and we were off. Skinned back across the lake and began the descent to the car. The slope down to the junction went well, but the trail back to the TH was like some kind of crazy bobsled run through an obstacle course of trees, which always were just too close together to make it through cleanly. The frozen crusty snow and the packed out trail made for much flailing and cursing as we made our way our of the forest to the road. The great thing about this trip was that it is nearly downhill the entire way from camp, and the entire ski out from the lake down to the car was less than 3 hrs. Exhausted, we high tailed it to Leavenworth for much needed burgers and beer. Pics should be up in the gallery shortly. (there is a pic of Colchuck Peak, taken as we were crossing the lake on Saturday as an attachment on this post)

scrambled/climbed the N. buttress of Colchuck yesterday. We left Seattle at 4 am and made the TH at 7. Hoofed it up to Colchuck Lake and found the talus/brushy slope leading up to the N buttress. The lower section of the buttress has some interesting route options with some large blocks and exposed faces. We kind of wound around some of these and climbed others, making slow but steady progress up the ridge. Once around the last of several major obstacles the ridge, we were able to remain directly on the ridge crest and enjoy some nice climbing. There are some nice areas of exposure and although we chose to take an easy route, one could make the route as difficult as one wanted. Anyway we made the summit and enjoyed the view. Also were intrigued by a large colony(?) of ladybugs right on the summit. They were all under this one rock and in some nearby cracks all scurrying around in one large mat. Once our fascination with the lady bugs waned we began the arduous descent. We dropped off the South side of Colchuck and descended to Colchuck Col, from there made our way up the talus gully leading towards the summit ridge of Dragontail. Traversed around the S. of Dragontail and descended neve and talus to Asgaard pass. Descended to Colchuck Lake, where we became very tired and it began to get dark...(damn daylight savings time) So we had a fun time stumbling down the trail to the car under the failing light of one woefully inadequate headlamp. finally made the car at 6:30...and was fully caffeinated for the drive home by 7. Anyway, a great day in the mountains.

It's been a while, but we climbed the Finger on June 25, 26. Climbing conditions were generally good. But now you may encounter some difficulties when approaching the upper sections of the finger where the Upper Nisqually Glacier buts right up against the E. edge of the Wilson Headwall. Also when you reach the top of the Wilson Headwall and you have to cross the area where the Kautz and Nisqually Glaciers meet, crossing that broken up section may be problematic. The Success routes may be good, but from info I've heard, its generally much better to do when the route is fully snow covered which it may not be now. Anyway, good luck.

Headlamps are your friend

As an example, we climbed the Fuhrer Finger near the end of June this year. That route is continuously exposed to rockfall from near the high camp through most of it's length to where it meets the top of the Wilson Headwall. I wouldn't even think of climbing that route without an alpine start. Just too much exposure to rockfall for too long a time. So we left camp early and had passed through most of the areas of exposure before the sun had a chance to do its dirty work on the ice and snow holding the rocks together. As far as routefinding, we crossed the Wilson Glacier in the dark to access the route and had no problems negotiating crevasses. Really it all has to due with what you feel is best for your route and your climbing partners. It's all part of the experience of climbing in the mountains and the decisions that you deem to be most beneficial to the success of your climb.

Typically an alpine start is most useful when there is a need to avoid dangerous conditions that develop on your route as the day progresses...normally due to the route being warmed by the sun. This can mean, among other things, increase danger to rockfall and icefall and avalanche. When your route is exposed to these hazards, starting well before dawn allows you to climb a significant distance before the sun rises and warms the route which tends to increase danger due to these hazards. On a route such as the Emmons Gl. an alpine start may not be as essential as other routes with more objective hazards. -Ross

Right on, I'll be there Tuesday if anyone wants to ski.

This trip almost didn't even get off the ground, due to extreme foolishness on my part, when I realized as we were pulling into Longmire at 7:30am Wednesday morning, that I had forgotten my tele boots all the way back in my apartment in Seattle. Oh S*@T!! was all I could think...Fortunately a family member who fortunately had nothing else to do that morning saved the day and picked up the boots and met us(Alex and I) back in Graham and made the drop... Anyway, with boots now in hand we hightailed it back to the Christine Falls TH, and began hiking at about 12:30. hiked up past Comet Falls and up to Van Trump Park and out of treeline and into the baking sun. I booted and Alex skinned all the way to camp at ~9200' on the W. side of the Wilson Gl. Made camp at 6:30, and made dinner and discussed the route and made our gear arrangements. Wake up call at 12:30am, and out of camp at 1:45. Under a perfectly starry night made our way across the Wilson Gl. to the bottom of the Fuhrer Finger. Climbing the finger was straight foreward with some sections of extremely large suncups, which while not hindering climbing, we were a little concerned with them for the ski down. As the sky began to lighten from the approaching sunrise the outline of some large seracs of the looming Nisqually Glacier became visible above and to our right. The scene was awesome. As we continued higher and higher we encountered one steep pitch with some exposure, just above 12000' and right against the rocks separating the finger from the Wilson Headwall. Negotiated this section and broke out onto smooth relatively lower angled slopes near the top of the Wilson Headwall. and finally after many exhausting hours of climbing, reached Columbia Crest at 9:15, under crystal clear skies and a fairly stout breeze. We paused for a photo break and rolled out the sleeping bags for a quick nap to recoup for the ski down. Started the descent at 12:15..Descended perfect corn on the upper Nisqually Glacier, with the top 1000v.f. or so being completely unbroken. Then negotiated some crevasses down to 12000' where we broke east and onto the top of the Fuhrer Finger. Here we began to encounter some of those large suncups, and even though softened by the sun, still made the skiing conditions less than ideal. There were some great turns about halfway down the finger, and then the best turns were below and skiers left of the hourglass, on the last little pitch before skiing onto the Wilson Glacier. An awesome ski with some great turns and some really crappy turns, but an awesome ascent and descent, especially among the large crevasses and seracs of the upper Nisqually, the immensity of the features are truely humbling, and beautiful. Anyway, back at camp around 1:30 we crashed out for a couple of hours. Made dinner around 4:30, and then organized our gear for the ski down on Friday morning. However, as we were lounging around the tent at 7pm, realizing that we had absolutely nothing to do, and would probably wake at 3am if we went to bed, made an impromptu decision to strike camp an beeline it to the car. Had our packs loaded and ready to go at 7:30, and skied some of the best snow of the day down to Van Trump Park in beautiful evening light. Skied down a creek drainage to the bitter end of the snow, and hiked down through the forest to find the Chrisine Falls trail, just near Comet Falls. A quick dash down the trail put us at the truck at 9:00. The Fuhrer Finger is still in good climbing condition, but the skiing conditions are far from ideal. Some pics are up in the gallery. -Ross