BillA

Discuss

I think the rock is underrated, it's shitty but it's not all that bad. And from my explorations there are more than four routes out there. We approached the obvious crack system in the middle of the face and found an old rusty pin, though we bailed after two lovely unprotected grass pitches. From what I can tell there's only one bolt on crown of the jewel or whatever the supposed .12 is. You can see a white piece of tat hanging off of it. I don't know, I think it's a cool place, if you're into that sort of thing, I think it would be interesting to see DT routes there.

I just read Terri's Blog

My second trip to Orizaba i summited on day three of the trip. I was hurting a little bit, but my buddies had already been sitting in the hut for three or four days by the time I got there and just wanted to climb. I took diamox and was living at 6500ft at the time so maybe that helped.

Does anyone want to hit up some ice somewhere this weekend? I really need to get out and am partnerless. I'm in Portland and can leave as early as thursday evening and be back as late as monday night, but would rather not be gone the entire weekend, that is negotiable however depending on where we go. So if you're interested PM me. Oh yeah, I can supply the vehicle.

I don't know, Aaron claimed that he hit nothing but ice with it. It was a real confidence booster having that happen on his first ice lead.

The dagger was at some obscure small crag in the Saco river valley where there were many similar formations around. I'm pretty damn sure the thing wasn't a testpiece of any sort, it wasn't in the guidebook. In total it was probably less than thirty feet tall. So yes, continue beating the horse if you wish...

The crack way to the left? That's like twenty feet out of the way and would result a terrible fall. Trust me, there was no pro to be had.

Dropline was the sweetest looking line out there. Unfortunately halfway up Dracula Brendan unleashed a basketball sized chunk of ice that tagged me in the back and fucked up my shoulder. It sucked because that was one of the lines that I really wanted to do. As for knocking down the pillar, it felt really solid and I was surprised that it broke. I did consider leading it but am glad I didn't because then I would be dead. Oh, and the comment about the locals was less about the local climbers and more about the surly New Hampshireites we encountered.

We went to New Hampshire seeking ice. We found some. Here is Aaron psyching himself up to lead Fischer Price: My First Ice Climb. Grivel's new pick technology: It was very cold. Very very cold. I think this thing will hold me. Whoops. I guess not. Here is Brendan starting to lead Dracula. It was hard. Here he is a little higher. Here he is nearing the top. When you look down behind the ice you realize that the final thirty foot crux curtain is actually three feet away from the rock. Sweet. We drove to Franconia notch to look at the Black Dyke. We decided that Cannon cliff is nothing but a glorified roadcut. We slept in the parking lot and twenty minutes before our alarm went off we heard car doors slamming and saw twenty people running to the base of the route. We decided to leave. All in all the trip was alright, although we found the locals to be mean, the weather cold and the ice mediocre.

I met a Bob Crawford in camp 4 this past May. Only talked to him for a little while. We talked a bit about climbing in Alaska and stuff, he gave me a bunch of beta and talked about a bunch of FAs he had done. Really nice guy, I have his phone number somewhere.

The thing in Ouray was funny, It wasn't meant to be mean, but I just kept thinking, "man, it's a good thing that didn't happen soloing slipstream..." And it made me feel good because I do shit like that all the time, especially when people are around watching. Please don't kill me.

I took a clinic from twight at the ouray ice fest last year and right as he started talking his crampons got tangled and he fell on his face. And then later he was soloing around on some easy WI and dropped one of his leashless tools. It was quite entertaining.

This is an argument I don't quite understand and it's one of the things that miffs me most about conservatives. They're all for personal responsibility and freedom until someone does something they don't like, like gets an abortion or gets gay married. Then they are all for government regulation. Seems a wee bit hypocritical guys.

anyone wanna go? I'm in pdx and can drive.

Are the routes on the rap wall climbable now or is it just a big, loose choss pile when it's not frozen? Thanks.

I worked at PRG until two months ago. I will refrain from commenting, although I find this thread entertaining.

I do. It says on your rc.com profile you've been climbing since 1986, I may be young but I wasn't even in diapers then and most of the people who post on this site seem pretty old . Maybe you should carry less shit and wear a tweed suit. These are guaranteeed to make you go faster.

Yes, he is a douchebag,

Man, has cracked been watching the same debate as everyone else?

This guy doesn't believe Colin. But I think he might be a douchebag. http:// http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=64438&postdays=0&postorder=asc&topic_view=&start=15

I'm bummed you're back too, I was enjoying your library of climbing books! I just realized that you are Chris and I've spent many nights at your house the past three months...weird. Anyway we should go climbing soon, and say hi to Maximus.

So, only the harness and axe remain, someone make me an offer or something, I want them gone!

Alright, the hexes are sold, but everything else still seems to be available as no one has said for sure that they wanted everything.

If he doesn't respond in 13.2 seconds, they're yours DC!