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ncascademtns

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Everything posted by ncascademtns

  1. Did the Luna Cirque Traverse from the Challenger Glacier in September of 1999. That was that great snow year so it went excellently well. We only had a 50 ft. 3rd class down climb to cut over to Luna Lake. Without the snow we would have had a rougher time. We came in E-W (Challenger Arm), climbed Challenger, East Fury and Luna than exited out Access Creek.
  2. You are a machine. Did you forget to mention about the helicopter? Great Job!
  3. You guys have it all wrong. Do the P.T., bag Dome and exit down Bachelor Creek. Much easier going down than it is coming up.
  4. Back in town yesterday around 6:00pm. We ended up doing the standard route. One of the guys ended up spending just over an hour in an ice box on the Mary Green Glacier. 20 ft drop. The snow bridge on the thumb probably has about a couple weeks of life left in it. Excellent climb on Saturday and we were back in Holden for coffee around 10:30pm. We bivy'd outside the Hiking Haus on the side of the street and was up at 5:00am for breakfast. Excellent climb!
  5. Get with Catbirdset. He has been to the crags at Glacier and could give you some ideas.
  6. If you heading toward Black Peak, take the trail up to Rainey Lake up at Rainey Pass. Hell, if you can find a wheel chair, you can get someone to push your ass up to the lake. Just under a mile and paved, you can't beat that!
  7. Excellent picture. Bonanza is a classic! As Pms mentioned, the Beckey description is fuzzy. If the ridge is straight forward, I can deal with a minor step. Thanks for the info. Leaving early tomorrow. Gotta catch the cruise boat up Chelan. I'll post on Monday.
  8. Heading up Bonanza this weekend via the South East Ridge. I've been up the Mary Green before but am looking for beta on the SE Ridge Route. So if anyone has done the ridge, fire beta my way.
  9. As Catbirdseat mention, I also know a few of the party members (I hate to admit). They have been know, (or at least one has been know) to push the limits on a lot of situations. It's just not worth it! I enjoyed the weekend in my back yard working on my climbing wall. Can't say that I scored any "Honey Do's" points though, got ride of those a while ago!
  10. Walk in the Park................................
  11. We hit the trail at 11:30am on Saturday and was up to the col at 4:30pm. On a two day trip I was in no rush so we breaked about every thousand feet for about 20 minutes. Given a one day trip, we would have been on the move. Getting to the col at 4:30pm and with a full moon, it was tempting to bag the summit that evening. A 5:30am start on Sunday and we were on the summit by 7:30am (1 hour on summit) and was back to the col around 10:00am. Packed up and was back to the cars at 2:00pm. I think a beer taste better after 2 days than just 1 long day. That's my thought
  12. We roped up and down climbed it with pickets. There are multiple rap routes in the gully. As the snow melts, they continue to show up. It's faster to down climb though.
  13. Toast, Do I know you? I have attached a jpg for your convience. Not the exit of the ridge at Eiley Lake, this ridge does not connect. Be prepared to spend a good week in the bush.
  14. Surprised, none to be seen although I piled rock on all my goodies. I hate camping low on the hillside. Nothing better than a col or ridge to camp on. Views are much better!
  15. I've done the Big Beaver- Challenger Arm- Mt. Challenger-Luna Cirque-Mt. Fury-Luna Peak-Access Creek loop route. Tell you what, you don't want to go up Access Creek. It was tough enough coming down. But if that is the only peak you are interested in, that is the shortest route.
  16. Did Silver Star this weekend via Burgandy Col, Silver Star Glacier. Climbers path up is well beaten. Still spots of snow in the gully going up to the Col. Camped at the Col. (5) bivy sight with one of them big enough for a tent. Second tent was pitched on a patch of snow on the east side of the Col. Route to summit straight forward.
  17. The Rock is open and it looks great! The dedication was a great success. They cleared away the trees and the rock is clean. You'll have to check it out!
  18. My boys have first crack at it! Catbirdseat, bring your harness.
  19. Stay away from Rat Face 5.10c. Did damage to me last year. Very painful!
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