EastCoastBastard

the fill weights are on the bags - 850 fill. Pertex shell, look like decent bags. the tents are not so spectacular, I agree. I kind of like the alchemist pack though, looks nice.

yes, I had a very similar problem with the second generation myoxp. Returned it to mec and got a replacement, then sold it. I now use a BD spot.

A friend of mine, back in the day, drilled a hole through the handle and threaded some cord through there. If you flip the tool over (so it's facing the opposite direction as in your picture) there are little screws on the orange handle. Unscrew these and you can see where to drill/not drill. Another friend simply girth hitched some thin webbing around the handle and covered it in seam grip (to keep it from slipping). I don't know how well it worked. not helpful, but I never bothered with attaching an umbilical to mine, seemed like a lot of effort.

Yeah, I got some nomics - they're pretty much brand new. Not 100% sure I made the right choice, but once I'm rolling in money I can get some other ones.

I've climbed on monsters a fair bit - I didn't notice a problem. What happened to your ergos?

Hey man I'm pretty sure it won't fit. X-monster handle is square-ish, horn is designed to fit around a round shaft. I suspect (without having one in my hand) that the monster handle will have a larger diameter than the horn.

+1 better than the ascensionist, i think.

Go for CCW - absolutely bomber, Randy's really reasonable about adding extra features/fabrics etc... ccw over cilogear any day

There is a good bagel shop - Silver something bagels. And a pretty decent bookstore. Public library is nice. It's a small town, like a minuscule seattle, or bellingham.

I'm pretty stoked with my Wild Country Astros - stinkin' light, but still a decent size that I don't fumble with them when wearing gloves. And they're cheap. Check supertopo gear reviews for more biners/reviews/opinions

I feel like I'm compelled to step in and say that douchebags can be from anywhere. I grew up on the east coast (as per my username) and while I didn't have a privileged background I did have a fair number of friends who do. And they're not dicks (I wouldn't be friends with them if they were). I'm sorry you have to deal with such losers out there, but we're not all dickheads. Maybe ask that kid why he didn't get legacy at his grandpappy's university? that might piss him off more.

You'd be best to post this on gravsports.

I was in cham for 5 weeks last April. We stayed in a gite (Ski Station, it was called) that was very simple and cheap, but nice. The you will most likely get a room for just the two of you without asking, but if you ask to be alone you will be for sure. little kitchen, easy walking to town, free wifi. And you can store your gear their for free when you're away! the only route that I've done on your list is the Cosmiques - it is very very easy - there are about 2 or 3 moves of 5.5 on super bomber rock and the rest is walking/scrambling. Fun though. you will need to rap one little section. We were unsure what to expect and ended up carrying a light rock and ice rack and didn't touch any of it. A comparable route *might* be the west ridge of pigeon, but the cosmiques is shorter and easier. That's the closest I can think of. have fun! it's a great place

I was the other guy (a skinny 6') in Jon H's firstlight in Cham. We didn't use or need the vestibule - even though I had one in my pack. I think we left our boots and packs outside, but that was it. It wasn't too bad. I like the vestibule, and have used it on other trips, but it's certainly not necessary. I've also spent quite a few nights with a big 6'2" guy in a Hilight that was fine room-wise. We even crowded a 3rd guy in there one night. That night wasn't super comfy, but it worked.

that's the Tokkum Pole, in Marble Canyon, just across the road from Haffner Creek. WI5+. Cool climb

I'm on chrome and windows 98 - works just fine. Nice work!

you could also try the early 90's era Fritshi FT88's - they work great, and it's what I've used for years after some annoying experiences with silveretta 404's

I've almost always used a coat hanger without any problem. I replace (i.e I lose them in my gear pile and have to make new ones) fairly often so rusting isn't really a problem. I usually fold them in half and keep it on the back of my harness. While rapping off a big alpine route last April, my partner pulls out this simond v-threader: http://www.simond.com/shop/produit/prd-82-Abalahook/ The hook bent into a useless bit of metal on the first prod (I guess the ice was too hard for it). We spent 10 minutes trying to get the hook back into useable shape before I pulled out my trusty coat hanger and away we went. That simond thing is a piece of Shit

Anybody?

Hi I've got 3 days off next week and I'm keen to go climbing - ice, mixed, whatever. I've got a car, gear (small ice rack, small rock rack, single rope, all my personal stuff) and I'm keen. On a low-gravity day, I lead WI5, M7. On a high gravity day... I'm currently on Vancouver Island and would drive over to the mainland to go to Lillooet or somewhere else reasonable. Even one or two days would be great. PM me or email me at graham dot b dot johnson at hotmail Cheers Graham

The MEC one is awesome. They have a couple different hoodie-type things, but one is clearly very similar to the R1. Expedition hoodie maybe it's called?

This is awesome! http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=be1_1322839852 Not your average ski movie... enjoy

Many many people are very happy on their stainless sabertooths.

I've been super stoked with my CCW ~ 40L pack - and I've had a number of cilogear packs. No more cilogear for me. My CCW is lighter (even with the frame of the cilogear removed), cleaner and more durable at a better price. CCW has an outstanding track record and can do minor customizations at a reasonable price. Randy's (CCW owner/operator) a super helpful guy and answers all your questions asap. Really easy doing business with him. My current 30L pack is a MEC genie DSL - which is a fraction of the price of most others and a sweet little pack. With a few minor modifications it's even better (lighter and more functional). I'm on my second Genie in 10 years - fantastic little packs. My first one has been retired to a school/grocery pack, but it's still going strong. Can't reccomend those highly enough. I liked the previous generation BD speed, but don't like the current generation very much.

Bummer! best of luck, Dane.