Coopah

Easy to say what needs to be done...a whole other experience to actually have to treat a friend or loved one that is mangled up in your arms...

Right on the money!

Of course I would respond...I'm an EMS guru

While CPR is beneficial for everywhere else there is EMTs and Paramedics to back it up, it won't help much when your miles into the wilderness. Trust me on that one... A good start would be the MOFA course (mountaineers) or just basic first aid course would help. Call the local FD or Red Cross for class dates and locations. Or better yet do a web search for wilderness first aid classes...Im sure they have them down your way...

Nice job dude!

To Murray @ Valhalla Pure Nice work

A 50 ft free fall takes about 1.3 seconds. I'm guessing that each reel can take maybe 3 ft. of rope. Therefore, the belayer would have to have reeled 3-4 times to keep the climber from hitting the ledge by 10 ft. Have a hard time believing the belayer was able to reel 3-4 times in 1.3 seconds

Good info iain. If you need to talk to someone about it by all means do so. The general public just isn't prepared to witness such a tragedy. Hope you and your friend are doing ok

I am open to having someone prove to me that reeling in works. It just seems to me that you only have a split second to act and that if you don't lock off you risk losing your grip from the rope ripping through your hand????

I hear what your saying...I was implying that maybe the pro wasn't spaced properly to begin with or the belayer is lackadaisical in rope management. I know there are just times when shit happens...

i am amazed at the ignorance on this thread... I too am amazed that people actually think this works?

You live in a simple world Coopah. How many times have you been climbing outside of the gym? Yes the world is simple...people make it complicated You have a better explanation of why you would need to reel in the rope? I am all ears!

Gyms suck... I actually live in the real world and have seen tests done where a 1kn load was dropped and before the person belaying could lock a munter hitch, it was burning his gloved hand and couldn't hold it. Guess what - the load hit the ground I would have to actually see this "reeling in" done or try it myself with a dead load before believing it would ever work...my hunch it doesn't

I think trying to "reel" someone in is a dangerous habit. Falls happen so quick that you have just enough time to process what is happening and lock the belay and little else. Why risk having the rope rip through your hand? Also why reduce the amount of rope available to absorb energy??? The only reason I can think of is to prevent hitting ground or a ledge - but then either the belayer is introducing too much slack or the leader isn't placing pro properly. I wouldn't advocate trying to reel anyone in...just lock the rope!!!

You should definately do so to your partners

In my search for info on Tuolomne Meadows I stumbled upon this site. http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/loversleap.html Some route beta is free the others are downloadable for a modest fee.

If you are actually cooking the simmerlite would probably be the better of the 2.

Just dunk your head in ice for 20 minutes and it will be good as new.

Prusik cord should be 60% - 80% the diameter of the host rope for optimum performance. Therefore in the case of 8mm rope, 5mm (60%) or 6 mm (80%) cord works best. For 10mm-10,5mm rope use 6 - 8 mm cord. Good old reliable nylon cord works best for prusik cord material. Most of the Spectra or Kevlar blends are too stiff to grab much...

Going soon? if so then you will find out what the conditions are

Thanks for all the input. Since I am just a , I am not going leashless just yet so I decided to buy 1 android and 1 robo. I will try them out this weekend and see how it goes.

Don't forget little ol Mt Carne....

Thanks for your thoughts...it helps in my decision!

Don't be cheap, buy one with a leash already attached. What your off brand set? What would you know anyways since you like to scramble..

I know it comes down to what feels comfortable for me but I would like to get others opinions of what style of leash to get and why. The two styles I am looking at are the BD Robo and the android. Anybody out there have experience with either or both and willing to pass on pros and cons of each? Thanks Coopah