Coopah

MMM

ncascademtns, myself & 4 others climbed Mt Daniel via the Lynch Glacier on Saturday. Since this was my first time leading a glacier climb I really wanted everything to go well. We departed the deception pass trailhead at 9 am. We left the trail ~ 1/4 mile north of Hyas lake and headed Westerly cross country on the valley floor. We were fortunate to have some beta from a friend to stay South of the creek that drains from the large basin on the west face of Daniel. By doing so we were able to keep our boots dry. Just prior to gaining elevation, we crossed this same creek to the north and followed it west along the North edge of the drainage. This led us up to the PCT which we turned North on for ~ 250' to a dry and rocky creekbed. We took a much needed break here. Once we got going again we initially began to hike up the dry bed but soon discovered there was a very faint and ocassionally flagged climbing trail in the trees which we gladly took as it kept us out of the sun. Some minor bush wacking got us up to flat area (and we regained the climbers trail) a very small water source were we took another break and filtered some needed water. From here we had a good view of the basin & waterfalls coming off the remenants of the Daniel glacier. We then climbed up to the Lynch draw and took a much needed 1+hr long break. Our initial plan was to camp here then make for the summit Sunday morning then descend the SE ridge past Peggy's Pond and exit via the Cathedral Rock trail. As a group we decided forgo camping and head for the summit Saturday afternoon. Since Pea Soup lk was up to the cliffs, we had to ascend the N ridge ~ 150' and descend down & traverse over to the glacier where we roped up. I was feeling the heat now and was feeling somewhat nauseous but yet was glad to be able to summit in 2 hrs after roping up. Summited at 7:30pm The descent was fine with a bivy at 9:20 pm about 800' above Peggy's Pond. Thanks to ncascademtns for spotting a good bivy site for all of us I think only one of us cooked dinner. I wasn't one of them since I was feeling sick. In hind site I should have forced myself to eat & drink as on Sunday I was the slow one on the descent. Live & learn !! All in all it was a good climb. We definatley took the more strenuous but adventuresome approach. We had the route and summit all to ourselves only wished I had a to top it off.

I use this one from MEC. http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER<>folder_id=589113&PRODUCT<>prd_id=118583&bmUID=1058925785683 Weighs about a pound...

True True...but there are other routes my friend that you haven't done...

Would love a TR. I am planning on doing those 3 peaks next year. Any beta you give will be most appreciated!!

Guys thanks for all the info. JoshK, I have read that there is a way to traverse onto the glacier by hiking a short ways up the ridge then dropping down onto the Lynch Glacier. I have some friends doing the same route the 19/20 so I will get the latest from them.

I'll be climbing Daniel in a couple of weeks. Has anyone climbed the lynch glacier recently? Any problems with the route?

Just completed the climb 7/3-7/5. The group hiked in the 15 miles to Elk lk on Thursday, summitted on Friday and then hiked back out Saturday. 48 hours total car to car. The trail is clear of all downed trees all the way through. We didn't see much snow until we passed glacier meadows approaching the lateral moraine. The approach up snow dome has a path now coming off the blue glacier. We were fortunate to have made the decision to summit when we did as the clouds rolled in literally on our heels. Thankfully we wanded the route but just barely didn't need them. It was comforting to know they were in place though!! Our only real problem came when 3 of us had only 1.5 miles left till we got to the car and one of my partners needed to piss. The dufus decided to step on a bee nest and before we could get away I was stung 3x, he got it twice. All in all it was an awesome climb

WHY ARE YOU YELLING? Chill dude...Millet ropes are fine and you can't disprove it so you yell?

Most ropes made today exceed the minimum UIAA standards...pick one you like and have FUN!!!!

The fall was actually a traversing swing that ended up rubbing / sliding on the same spot on the rope for a good 20-30 feet. While the sheath was barely scuffed up there was a slight indentation to the rope so rather than always wonder if it would hold my 235# , I decided the safe thing to do was cut it. Had the guy leading protected the traverse a little better then maybe the rope wouldn't have needed to be cut...but that is another story. I do agree that Mammut is in my opinion the best rope out there today.

Why not buy them? No reason other than you "heard" they aren't good? I actually use them and have ZERO negative things to say about them. If you have actual facts on why they aren't good I would seriously like to hear them. Coopah

I have 3 Millet ropes using only 2 at the moment (a 10.2 and 10.4). They handle very well and come out of the package with little to no twisting of the rope due to it's triaxel braid construction. Due to a pendulum fall, I had to cut the 10.2 down from 60M to around 50M. I then tracked down the US supplier (which was fazing them out) and got a steal on 2 ropes for $250. One was 60M dry bicolor and the other is a 70M. I will probably cut the 70 down to 50 so i have a nice short 20M section for scrambles and such when a full rope isn't needed.

Uh, E, would you care to elaborate on that statement? I doubt he will here...

I've heard it's a doozy

Wow someone actually has days off during the week. I have those days off too....well at least one of them...check your PM ....

Good question and timely too since I am doing Olympus July 4 weekend. I have been wondering the same thing and have contemplated wearing my low top trail shoes the majority of the flat approach and then slapping on my mtn boots for the tech portion of the climb. That also means I am carrying an additional 5 pounds on my back...a dilemma indeed!

Good climb which can be bagged in a long day if you leave the road early! Cut your pack weight in half and cruise....

I have a tall Khamsin 62 for sale...used once. I should have gone with the medium (which I now have). It's yours for $165 PM me if interested

Sorry Coopah, but unless you have a "becket" to tie it to, it's probably actually a sheet bend you are referring to. I don't know what your smoking but a becket bend is exactly what I mean...I think you are uninformed to other names of knots. Maybe you should look it up before you spout off again...

Use a becket bend and back it up with an overhand on either side. Much easier to get undone after being loaded.

Who uses ice axes?

My pack is a Arc Teryx nozone ~ 3200 cubic inches. Only things outside were fuel bottles, picket, sleeping pad & helmet. Eveything else was in side the pack.

Was just on the ID. Snow bridges are very dicey and won't last much longer than a day or two at most. DC hasn't been done yet from what we were told by the Rangers. Unfortunately we had to turn around at 12140' due to AMS

Dustin I tried those boots on and felt they ran big for the size listed. FWIW - I wear a size 11 shoe and bought the Scarpa Inverno and went with a size 11.5 . With my orthotics in place, my toes don't jam up in the toe box when kicking steps. My heel does lift a bit on my right foot but I plan on getting some adhesive padding to put on the outside of the inner boot on either side of the achilles heel to help reduce that problem. my $.02