SReno

1) I'd agree with the others who posted that the Silver Glacier is climbable year round, if you're prepared for some blue ice. We found the iciest section just out of the col at about 7600'. After that the crevasses were visible through firm snow. If you can, I'd do the Silver Glacier route and forget the others. It is a classic NW climb. The SW couloir looked pretty gross with lots of loose crap. 2) By August 14th you'll likely be able to see the crevasses we couldn't. The slope might require a bit of meandering, but would be doable with 2 rope teams. If we'd had one more person, we would've continued. With 2, though, it just wasn't worth the risk. Have a great time, you're in for a great trip. Post something when you get back.

The key is to not tell the border patrol you're crossing back into the states. When asked at the Canadian Border, I and my partner, who is an English citizen with a work permit, just said we were going climbing near Lake Chilliwack...not a lie, as we were headed up Depot Creek. They searched the car, but they couldn't get us to change our story. We saw your car on the Depot Creek Road as we were coming out. We figured some crazy Missouri tourist had gotten bushwhacked and the perpetrators stashed the car in the bushes with the bodies in the trunk. We passed a cop just before Paleface Creek Road, but decided not to mention the car. Glad to hear you were just experiencing jungle fever instead.

The bushwhacking tails of the Spickard approach were a bit exaggerated. The path to the talus slope leading to Ouzel Lake is easy to follow, if not somewhat overgrown and occasionally blocked by minor blowdowns. Er...I mean, that approach to Spickard is a real pain in the ass. We camped at the col above Silver Lake at about 7300', getting on the glacier directly from camp. The glacier was in good condition with most of the crevasses visible and easy to avoid. The schrund, however, was too gaping for us. It looked like someone had negotiated the 3-foot gap 3-4 days before, likely when the gap was much smaller or before it opened. We opted to get on the rocks directly from the schrund. A couple of 4th class moves on sketchy, loose, crappy rock led past the poorest section and got us to the ridge. Man, what a cool spot! We used slings along the ridge for pro and made two short rappels to get us back to the schrund on the return. The high camp is well worth the effort. We tried Redoubt via the Redoubt Glacier from Ouzel Lake on the 27th. I sunk to my thigh in a crevasse on the low-angle portion leading to the 7200' plateau. The slope looked totally benign, but closer examination and probing revealed a lot of hidden crevasses. Being a party of two and not wanting to cross the mine field during the hot afternoon, we opted to turn back. It was disappointing, but we both had no doubts about it being the right choice. Will definitely return to complete Redoubt in the future.

Yeah, we're headed in via Depot Creek. Hoping it's not too overgrown. The weather report is awesome for the trip. The only thing that will stop us from the summit is us, like just choosing to lounge in the sun at camp. What's it like getting off the glacier onto the ridge and then up to the summit on Spickard? I'm guessing we can get along fine with just some webbing and leave the rock pro at home.

Now if that pic don't pique the interest, I don't know what will. What an awesome place! Thanks for the encouragment. The plan is to do Redoubt via the Redoubt Glacier, Spickard and Custer.

Has anyone been up the Silver Glacier this year? I'm heading up there on the 23rd and wondering what conditions have been. We're hoping we're not too late to do the route.